1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

2011 RW with...leveling kit?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by FredB32, Sep 10, 2019.

  1. Sep 13, 2019 at 12:45 PM
    #31
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    There's a pair of front shocks/springs I've found for $125 delivered with 20k on them. Good deal?
     
  2. Sep 13, 2019 at 1:07 PM
    #32
    Pudge

    Pudge Super Secret Elite Member #7

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2016
    Member:
    #5136
    Messages:
    9,498
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Sean
    CT
    Vehicle:
    2015 Blue Ribbon Platinum
    TRD PRO grille, OCD consol organizers, DIY wireless phone charger, 33" Michelin Defender LTX MS, Bak revolver X2 tonneau, weathertech liners, 20% tints. DIY pop n lock, 2018 LED headlights, morimoto fogs, TRD shift knob, DirtyDeeds 8"BAM exhaust, kenwood HU,JL amp, Tech12volts Tundra full speaker upgrade w/sub, Swing case, and lots of fluid film
    Meh $125 for 20k miles isn't horrible but I think I'd rather pay a little more for less miles.
     
  3. Sep 13, 2019 at 1:10 PM
    #33
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    Fair enough...now that I've started looking, I'm wondering if I just want to maybe spend a little more on some better shocks (5100?) and swap the springs over (or find some springs). I've done suspension work on my cars before so it's not too intimidating.

    What's recommended for a daily driver with no expected off-road use? About the only thing I'd ever really tow would be our kayaks, which are not heavy and have an aluminum trailer (I've towed it with the Prius and Ioniq in the past!). Worst-case maybe our trailer for hockey, but that would be super rare (5x7 enclosed with gear...maybe 1,500-2,000 at max). Would the 5100 be overkill? I don't need adjustability I would think...
     
  4. Sep 13, 2019 at 1:15 PM
    #34
    Pudge

    Pudge Super Secret Elite Member #7

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2016
    Member:
    #5136
    Messages:
    9,498
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Sean
    CT
    Vehicle:
    2015 Blue Ribbon Platinum
    TRD PRO grille, OCD consol organizers, DIY wireless phone charger, 33" Michelin Defender LTX MS, Bak revolver X2 tonneau, weathertech liners, 20% tints. DIY pop n lock, 2018 LED headlights, morimoto fogs, TRD shift knob, DirtyDeeds 8"BAM exhaust, kenwood HU,JL amp, Tech12volts Tundra full speaker upgrade w/sub, Swing case, and lots of fluid film
    5100 are good. But IMO just marginally better than the bilsteins they put on the trucks from the factory. I had them on my Tacoma, adjusted to like 1 inch of lift and they rode stiff and rough, probably because I preloaded the coil springs. But either way i wasnt a fan for the money they cost compared to some OEM takeoffs
     
  5. Sep 14, 2019 at 7:16 AM
    #35
    Zum

    Zum New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2018
    Member:
    #18529
    Messages:
    177
    Gender:
    Male
    NS Canada
    5100s will raise the front a bit(.87" at bottom/lowest setting)
    I bought some, still in my spare room though...waiting for tires and either AAL or shackles for rear.
    Lots of tundra have them and there are a bunch of posts on them if you want to research.
    Should be able to get them new and installed for the price your throwing out there.
     
  6. Sep 14, 2019 at 11:34 AM
    #36
    LT75

    LT75 Seasoned Pro

    Joined:
    May 27, 2018
    Member:
    #15633
    Messages:
    1,479
    Gender:
    Male
    Saint Charles, IL
    No mods yet
    I would scrape a little of the paint away on the rear axle to see if the is rust under there. Could be trapping water in there.
     
    jordan0317 likes this.
  7. Sep 14, 2019 at 5:55 PM
    #37
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2018
    Member:
    #22402
    Messages:
    16,161
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    George
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2020 Tundra DC SR5 Barcelona
    Alot of them
    That looks like the Supreme Suspension brand spacer that I had on mine before I swapped. If I recall, their instructions have you rotate the strut assembly 180 degrees before reinstalling it after putting the spacer on. However, that wont matter if you are replacing the whole assembly. On that note, there is not enough room to just lower the strut a little and pull the spacer off. There isn't enough room between the strut mount and the threads that the spacer goes over. Loosening the lower control arms bolts and lowering it all the way makes life the simplest. Readylift has a good video that you can reference.
     
  8. Sep 16, 2019 at 10:00 AM
    #38
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    Okay...so geez, looking at what RL includes in their kit, what I have on there appears to be just a spacer (can you tell looking at the pics if anything else is non-factory?)? Makes me think even more the sooner I can get it out of there the better off I'll be. I'd want to make 100% sure that if there *are* any other aftermarket suspension bits on there, such as spacers, etc. to re-align it after the lift, that I'm prepared to replace those back to stock.

    Great tip on the video...they make it look so easy with this stuff. I should be able to get the job done in ~11 mins per side like the video shows, right? :D (8 years of WI winters and the fact I'm doing it in the driveway might say otherwise!)
     
  9. Sep 16, 2019 at 10:01 AM
    #39
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    Looks like this is the factory bumpstop? upload_2019-9-16_12-1-38.jpg
     
  10. Sep 16, 2019 at 10:03 AM
    #40
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    And could anyone confirm for me if the rear looks like it has a spacer? It's in the third pic...but not knowing what a regular factory suspension setup looks like offhand, I don't know if I should plan on removing that or not.
     
  11. Sep 16, 2019 at 10:04 AM
    #41
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    Is there something specific you're seeing where I should scrape it away to test?
     
  12. Sep 16, 2019 at 10:09 AM
    #42
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    Sorry for multiple posts in a row...just typing out my thoughts/questions as they come to me here. Would someone be able to point me to some diagrams or instructions for suspension work, specifically I'm looking for the torque settings for all the bolts and pieces I'm going to have to undo (I do have a torque wrench and an air impact driver as well).

    Is there anything else I should consider replacing while I'm under there? There's no obvious squeaks or rattles or anything weird that I've noticed, so I'm going to assume that most of the other stuff (bushings, etc.) are in okay condition. The less I have to do, the better! lol
     
  13. Sep 16, 2019 at 10:13 AM
    #43
    FredB32

    FredB32 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Member:
    #35621
    Messages:
    559
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD RW
    Last one for right now: it appears this is the factory rear u-bolt and setup, no spacer? Or is the red part I circled an aftermarket spacer block in there? It's a little hard to tell with it all being coated, so I'm hoping someone who is more familiar with this will be able to tell from a simple visual:

    upload_2019-9-16_12-13-51.jpg
     

Products Discussed in

To Top