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2007 CrewMax power door locks

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Tundra44, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. Jan 10, 2015 at 5:55 PM
    #1
    Tundra44

    Tundra44 [OP] New Member

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    I'm on my third set of power door lock actuators. They seem to go out about every two years. The first set started failing just after the warranty expired. The current set is going out now. It always starts with the front passenger door and works it's way around.

    Toyota has replaced them each time at no cost, but last time they said it would be the final time they would do it. I have seen other Tundra owners on line with similar problems and I think there was an actuator TSB for other 2007 models, just not the Tundra. The parts are 350.00 per door plus 150.00 in labor if the dealer does it. That's crazy.

    Anyone else having similar problems or have any suggestions?
     
  2. Jan 10, 2015 at 6:22 PM
    #2
    Mike

    Mike Tread lightly.

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    Actuators should not be going out like that.. only way they should be going out like that is if you lock and unlock the doors 100 times a day...

    Sounds like either a ground problem or a relay module problem or unless the linkages are binding on something...
     
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  3. Jan 10, 2015 at 6:35 PM
    #3
    Tundra44

    Tundra44 [OP] New Member

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  4. Jan 10, 2015 at 6:38 PM
    #4
    Tundra44

    Tundra44 [OP] New Member

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    Mike, I don't unlock them more than average, and I would have hoped the dealership would have picked up on any other underlying cause the two times they replaced them. I've searched around on line and it appears to be a common problem in a lot of Toyota models, because the motors are pretty small.

    The last time they were replaced, the service rep at Toyota suggested that they might go out because of excessive window cleaning, because the window cleaner seeps into the door and shorts them out. Seemed like a lame excuse. I honestly don't clean my windows much anyway.

    I think the motors just aren't robust enough. There's a lot of "unintended" lock cycles on them. All the doors lock at 15 MPH and unlock every time you put it in park. That's on top of the usual entry and exit lock cycles. The motors are pretty tiny. Add to that the inability to routinely/easily lube the cables, it adds more resistance to the lock assembly.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  5. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:13 PM
    #5
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Don't have the problem with my 2012. Awesome links to save $300+ if it does happen.
     
  6. Jan 12, 2015 at 11:27 AM
    #6
    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..

    After doing so research tho it is some what common but not over the top... I would make 3x sure you have a excellent ground on the motors when the lock or unlock button is pushed. True ground is needed.

    The video i did watch very interesting first time im seeing the lock ( some supplier needs to be SHOT).. Those motors are not designed for that rate of torque needed. I watch the force needed.. Holy crap..... Toyota has lost its marbles for that junk..

    Aftermarket( autozone... dorman does a good job on updating parts plus lifetime warranty) might have solved the problem where the factory OEM left off or failed to resolve the current problems with the unit.


    excessive window cleaning are they HIGH?


    There is away cant remember where i saw it but you can reprogram the doors not to lock and unlock when you put it in drive and in park..

    Edit: if you are replace the motors in the unit the one listed is the same your replacing so it will fail again in time... I looked at the specs on the motor no wander they are burning up.. If you are planning on replacing the motors i would look around for a motor that has 2x the torque rate as the ebay one listed. (personally i like to do it once and forget deal)
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015
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  7. Jan 12, 2015 at 1:44 PM
    #7
    chphilo

    chphilo New Member

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    I have had no problem with this. Do you go off road where mud gets into the mechanism?
     
  8. Jan 12, 2015 at 2:35 PM
    #8
    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    If you had mud in the door area where the locks are at you would have some serious problems... This is not a offroad problem this is more like a design problem by a supplier.. Toyota does have a TSB on the locks
     
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  9. Jan 12, 2015 at 4:26 PM
    #9
    chphilo

    chphilo New Member

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    Do you happen to have the link to this TSB?
     
  10. Jan 12, 2015 at 5:10 PM
    #10
    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    With the OP having them replaced out of warranty and not charging him would state a TSB or a post for the tech to inspect the units for possible failure.. Dealer nor toyota would take a $1200 hit without some kind of TSB posted trusted me dealer nor the tech will do it for FREE....... Remember not all TSB are open to the public some are private so the say toyota for example can study whats going on before yelling RECALL. ( same thing Gm did with the massive recall in place for fault key switches but knew about it for years)

    Fyi. when i bought my 2003 tundra while back 4 years ago. i found it had 5 tsb on it. Made a appointment to get it fix found out i had 9 TSB on it some where internal so..

    If you have a key system messing up take it to the dealer see if they have a internal TSB on the parts in question...

    Like i said IMO the lock system that toyota used is way over board.. They forgot to use the kiss method..

    My 2003 tundra has been under recall for 2 years now plus and still no work around YET (air bag failure) ..... I manually goto the dealer every few months and check i dont call them they will blow you off... They remember me and they know im active in getting my truck back to normal. Thanks takata for screwing up not one recall but two for the same thing....
     
  11. Jan 20, 2015 at 8:46 PM
    #11
    Medicth

    Medicth New Member

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    I have a 2012 and have had the from ones replaced already under warranty, now the back ones are going out too. Of course not under warranty.
     
  12. Jan 23, 2015 at 8:05 AM
    #12
    Tundra44

    Tundra44 [OP] New Member

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    Mine have always started with the front passenger door then worked its way back to the rear passenger door, rear driver's side door etc. the driver's door was last to go. Currently the front pax door is out. It stopped working and then came back to life for a couple days and died again. That makes me think it could be a ground issue.

    Interestingly, it always seems to start when we get the dry warm Santa Ana wind conditions. During the day, it's warm and super dry, then it cools off considerably at night. Could be purely coincidental, but seems that's when it always starts.
     
  13. Mar 22, 2015 at 2:55 PM
    #13
    zachj265

    zachj265 New Member

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    I have an 07 SR5 4x4. The only actuator that works is the front driver side. Every person I come across with an 07 or 08 has the same issues. This has nothing to do with excessive window cleaning. Instead of spending $1500 to replace 3/4 actuators I will lock/unlock them manually. What a pain in the ass issue. Prior to my Tundra I had a 99 Tacoma that never had a single problem until I was T-boned with 302,000 miles. Within 3 months of purchasing a certified pre-owned Tundra I already have $1500 worth of repairs!
     
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  14. Mar 23, 2015 at 10:05 PM
    #14
    Tundra44

    Tundra44 [OP] New Member

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    I took the driver's door apart and lubed everything and it's working again. However, it used to beep once when you locked it, twice when unlocked. Now it beeps when you lock it, there's a pause and second beep. It stays locked. It doesn't beep at all when it's unlocked at all now. I suspect it's something to do with the switch panel. My understanding is that the driver's door is the master panel.
     
  15. Feb 12, 2016 at 6:59 PM
    #15
    Stepp75

    Stepp75 New Member

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    My 2010 is having similar trouble the rear doors won't lock electrically and my power ports won't work did u ever find the problem with yours
     
  16. Feb 27, 2016 at 8:31 PM
    #16
    Tundra44

    Tundra44 [OP] New Member

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    As odd as it sounds, mine seems to be temperature and humidity related. When it goes from cool to hot/dry, they act up. The right rear door is dead regardless. I think it has to do with the actuator cables and contraction/expansion combined with inability to lubricate them and it burns out the actuator motor.
     
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