2006 Tundra Lucchese #42 (I've got issues)

Umm... Just from the outside lookin in perspective... Wasnt this a relatively low mileage truck with just messed up paint? Throwing a brand new part at every moving part right away seems like a bit of overkill no? What happened with the high idle and drivability? Is there a real need to replace all 8 coil packs? Tons of people are 300,000+ on OEM coil packs.

 

Fair point, at most this is all preventive, I just felt better replacing what hasn't been touched so I can have a running maintenance log. The high idle/noise issue was figured out. I tried a few things, such as cleaning the throttle body, replacing air filters, MAF sensor. It worked for a couple of days, but I finally noticed a pattern and what Shifty' said about the heat finally clicked, fan clutch was going bad (the noise only starts after it reaches operating temps). LBJ are original on it (which def need to be replaced), and the timing belt was changed at 117k miles from what I can tell from my dads records. He hasn't done anything else besides the oil/trans drain/fill every four months with typical tire rotations and alignments. Besides that the rest of the vehicle is OEM, which at this point, I have no idea what is going to go bad next. I'm still very much a novice, so I might be going overboard, but this is how I'm gaining peace of mind.

 

Don't go messing with ball joint boots, trying to pull them off. Then they'll leak out their grease for sure.

If they're leaking, you'll know it from the dark stain underneath. If they aren't, don't go poking and prodding the boot.

 

And nothing wrong with preventative maintenance. It's all a matter of budget priorities. The higher the budget, the more priorities you can have. Just make sure, if you have a limited budget, you aren't prioritizing the wrong things, to badass03taco's point.

 

Well, good thing I only managed to pull it up slightly before I got the jack out and pulled the wheels off. Theres no leak under the boots, they look good.

What should I be prioritizing?

 

If you've been spending time on this site, you already know. Of course it depends on what's been done recently. The big things are lower ball joints, timing belt/water pump, radiator. From there it just really depends.

In the first two months I owned my truck, I replaced:

Upper and lower ball joints (my UBJ boots were cracked wide open and crumbling)
Radiator, hoses, coolant
Shocks and coils
Flushed brake and power steering fluid

Then had a mechanic do the timing belt/water pump.

Generally I'd also replace all fluids, but I was lucky enough to have all the maintenance records for my truck and the gearboxes were all changed somewhat recently, so I'm dragging my feet a bit on those. I'm still getting ready to do front & rear differential, transmission and transfer case all the same.

Nothing wrong with doing anything and everything else. Just important to be systematic, based on maintenance history, the known failure points of these trucks, and available funds.

 

How's the paint work coming?

On my '03 with 250k miles, coils are still original.

If you're at 181k now sounds like it's a bit early on the timing belt based on mileage if done at 117k?

FWIW, besides regulars like LBJs, fluids, front brake pads/rotors, tires, and timing belts / water pump, have replaced shocks, CVs (because was easier and not expensive with discount to swap in toy remans compared to rebooting at that time), leaking radiator in 2018 IIRC probably around the mileage you have now, and noisy rear axle bearing this year.

Have parts for swapping the LBJs again soon along with the OE UBJs that have cracked boots but not excessive play, rear brake shoes, and valve cover gaskets that are leaking after retightening, along with plugs and PCV, while cleaning MAF/EGR.

Planning to order steering rack bushings due to play in OE bushings.

Thinking of proactively rebuilding starter and alt but they're still working great.

 

The paint is rough still, I've redone the clear 4 times, bought a different spraygun, and it's still coming out with orange peel. I've buffed it down to a minimal level, but still annoying to deal with. August-September are my off season so I'll have plenty of time to crack into getting it right.

TBH, I've checked the timing belt and it looks to be in really good condition, minimal wear on it at the moment. I just want to be proactive with my repairs, have a clean timeline and maint. log going forward since I plan to use this vehicle going forward. I've got a big long list of items to add to it as my dad wished to transform it into an off-roading truck to use during his retirement, so getting these core items out of the way is the plan.

 

Does anyone know if these 62312-0C030-E1 are the right part for the door seal? I'm trying to replace mine and I have this lip that goes over the interior panels, I just ordered door seal that was "an exact fit" for mine, but did not have this interior lip, 62312-0C010 was the part I ordered, and the 62312-0C030-E1 is the part the dealer at Ourisman told me is the correct part, but the image attached doesn't match at all. Is this a Lucchese issue only? The gap in the panel is really bothering me.

 

The "E1" on the end of the number would suggest it's got something on it that's beige/fawn/oak in color. Can you show us a picture with an arrow scribbled on it for the part you're hunting?

 

This is what I'm looking for:
This is what I got:

 

Looks like you needed that seal anyhow. So you’re looking for the plastic cover for the B-pilllar (plastic cover over the metal between the doors). Junkyard is your best bet. The Toyota part will surely cost at least $100-150, probably more like $175-225.

 

They're one single combined piece, the door seal goes over the B-pillar into the interior. That's what has me confused, I can't find one that is both like what I have currently.

 

In almost every vehicle I've owned, that colored plastic piece actually snaps over the seal, and digs into it so tight you may not realize it's one piece. In the exploded diagrams, it's this piece:

​

 

In your case, I *think* (emphasis on THINK) the part number is 62402-0C010-E1 and it should look roughly like this, although I don't think this is "E1" (tan/beige) so this may not be the right color, it's the only example I can find easily to show the shape of the part.

​

 

Oh, and if you pop the trim piece off, many of the plastic pieces have a part number molded into them in the format of XXXXX-XXXXX, sometimes with an extra -XX on the end. If you pop the piece off,that may give away that either (A) I'm right about the piece being larger than you're thinking or (B) give you the part number you need to re-order ... just know, on the colored parts, they don't always include a -XX letter/number combo on the end to define the color (i.e. -E0, -E1, -B0, -B1 or whatever ... E's are shades of brown, Bs are shades of grey usually)

 

Sorry, this is what I meant by them being one piece, the one in the other photo (the new door seal I purchased) lacks that tan part that seals over the trim leaving that gap you see in pic below.

 

Is the replacement part the same shape, but all-black?

 

Nope, it doesn't have the lip that goes over the interior at all, its only the black seal part. *Edit* the gap in the last pic is still there when I installed the black one, I can redo it again for pics if you want.

 

Super weird. I'm digging thru the diagrams and I cannot find rubber seals anywhere. I know I found them for MY truck (access cab), but I can't seem to find the same for YOUR truck (double cab).

 

I really appreciate it, I can't figure this out and I've contacted 5 dealers asking about it and they've all given me different part #'s. I spent a pretty penny on these new ones and they aren't the correct kind, so I might just have to carefully cut the lip on my old one and somehow glue it to the new one.

 

So did you ever put the hood back on?

 

You're giving the dealers the VIN and they can't identify the part? Hopefully at least they are refunding you.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/par...molding-for-gen-1-tundra.107290/#post-2797459

06 DC

62311C WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR OPENING TRIM, RH
62311-0C030-B0 MD.CHARCOAL, TRIM11
62311-0C030-B1 MD.GRAY, TRIM12
62311-0C030-E1 FAWN, TRIM42, 43

62312C WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR OPENING TRIM, LH
62312-0C030-B0 MD.CHARCOAL, TRIM11
62312-0C030-B1 MD.GRAY, TRIM12
62312-0C030-E1 FAWN, TRIM42

 

I'll be taking pics soon of it all put back together very soon, the hood is on, but still needs polishing.

Yeah, it's been a nightmare, I am trying to process a refund and haven't heard back yet.

THIS LOOKS LIKE IT, REALLY SUPER DUPER CLOSE!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!

I'm gonna buy this and cross my fingers, thank you!

 

Good news was no milk shake made by my radiator, also transmission fluid looks very clean
Bad news one of the nuts on the fan clutch is nearly stripped, tried to get it for an hour. Gonna have to hit it tomorrow.

 

I got the fan clutch off, working my way through the rest of it.. please tell me these aren't cam shaft seal leaks.. they look like valve cover gasket leaks to me, but I don't know. Something (oil) is definitely leaking though.

 

I'll be interested to see what more experienced members think, but it's good to keep these slow oil seeps in perspective. Someone who wants everything "just so", tight as can be, wouldn't tolerate oil seeps like that. Other people would have no issue at all with them, and drive the truck another 100,000 miles without worrying about them, until or unless they started dripping on the ground.

I don't see a problem with either approach.

What I'm not sure of is whether there are a few critical areas on these engines that you don't want to let go, for whatever reason, and whether this is one of them. Valve covers, for example?..Meh. I certainly like my engine clean and shiny, but leaking valve cover gaskets is really more of an aesthetic thing than an actual issue, until they start dripping on your driveway. And even then, there's a percentage of people who wouldn't care.

I had a couple late-80s early-90s era Subaru wagons, and they left oil spots everywhere I parked. That's how those cars were. If you went on a Subaru forum and said your engine was leaking oil onto your driveway, they'd tell you "good, you know there must oil in it then. If it stops leaking, that's when you need to worry!".

"Subarus mark their territory" is a common phrase.

So, perspective. But absolutely, if you want a leak-free engine, you can have it with a Toyota, so there's nothing wrong with going after every seep you find.

 

You make some good points, what I think I'm going to do is clean off the engine around the valve cover and under the cams, put it back together, run it for 500-1000 miles, then check to see if its leaking in the same spots. (This was suggested on another site to me). I just panicked hard when I saw there was oil in the cam pulley covers.

 

Okay, I need some advice, I was putting in the timing belt tension bolts, one went righty loosey and broke off entirely, 2/3 of the bolt is still in the hole. I was using a digital torque wrench because I was afraid of this exact scenario. I got to 10ft/lbs and it snapped off. This is the ASIN kit replacement timing belt. How F***ed am I?

*Not the pulley, the hydraulic tensioner with two bolts at the bottom.

**Nevermind, I have a buddy coming over to weld a nut to it and extract it. It's not as bad as I thought it was.