2006 Tundra - Electronics Saga - pls help!

THANK YOU!! Wow - Rock auto is awesome!! So I could pick any one of the items on the page you linked on rockauto? I guess to be safe I should pick one from the "standard replacements" ? Hmm it seems like there are different switches based on the cab type. I have the "double cab" which is what they called it in 2006, but rock auto references standard and crew cabs.. I guess crew cab is what I'd pick, since today's "crew cab" was 2006's "double cab?"

 

No worries....

This is the OEM part number... 8445052010

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oe...1bmRyYSZ5PTIwMDYmdD1zcjUmZT00LTdsLXY4LWdhcw==

This one from Beck-Arnely cross references that number...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2221192&cc=1432861&jsn=18&jsn=18

 

Ordered the beck arnley one!

 

I really hope that does it for you...electrical gremlins are a bitch.

If that doesn't do it, you mentioned that sometimes your radio would go out like the battery was unplugged and lose all memory? If so, and this switch doesn't fix it (or if you have time to kill waiting for it) I would trace the power line coming off the battery and go over the whole length of it and look for possibly corroded wiring or bad connector somewhere along that. Good luck

 

Because of a leaky windshield I had a corroded pin on a connector by the firewall behind the brake pedal that was giving me electrical headaches. Since your radio is messing up independently of the truck running it might be worth disconnecting all the connectors behind the dash and taking a look for any gunked up ones and bypassing or replacing the connector if you find one. Also the fuse box under there.

 

Ok, I do have time to kill (it's coming tomorrow) - so do you mean the big black wire or the big red wire coming off the battery, or another? And then.. should I strip back the protective coating to look for corrosion? I've almost done that to the bigger battery wires but I've hesitated..

 

Phew, I dunno if I have the gumption to remove the dash.. but I'll look for whatever ones I can find without removing the dash (at least to start)!

 

Aha! If I remove this harness, I can reproduce the starting and dying problem. Not sure if this is the actual issue; or I’m just making it start and die a different way... but the wire looks pretty crimped so maybe it’s sketchy under the insulation; about to check!

 

Update.. the wires still look pretty solid; bummer..

 

I started getting into the ignition switch area.. strange that this thing under the ignition seems to be zip tied. Is that normal? Also there is some female harness sticking off the side of the ignition switch that wasn’t attached to anything.. is that normal?

 

TPMS

 

You should check the vaccuum lines and make sure they're connected and not leaking.

 

I had a truck once (Nissan, not Toyota) that would randomly stall while driving for no apparent reason. Turned out to be a bad ignition switch. The worn/corroded contacts completed the circuit, but failed once in a while.

 

I had this problem on an older F150 after replacing the battery. Once I did the “relearn” process all was well. Not sure Toyota has this too...

 

Here's a thread from Oct with valuable suggestions from these guys !

Intermittent ignition problem? | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

It's not factory installed. I'd also be curious to know the actual quality of that knarly black taped wire. With added zip ties, someone has been in that area for something ?