2006 Double Cab Tundra

Thank you! Lots of time and money to keep her around for a while.

 

Those headlights and lightbar behind the grill looks so good, nice truck!

Also your tacoma is a beast as well!

 

I just started checking out this build with more attention. I'm told the truetrac is a go to, I would have got it but decided i needed switchable. I hope you are loving it. After looking a lot, these KCs seem like the call for me. Great work as far as I've read!

 

Thanks and Thanks! The Tacoma is my money pit. It quickly snowballed into what you see today. I'm still saving money for the rear suspension.

Thank you. The TrueTrac wasn't necessary for what I'm doing with the truck, which is the daily/family/tow truck but since I was in there, I figured why not. It did help when I went to the snow last year. Worked like it suppose to and way better than the stock LSD.

My next money pit idea is installing a ARB compressor. Stay tuned. I already installed the compressor in the engine bay, just need to wire it up.

 

Sweet, let's see that. I have a twin compressor that is waiting for some love. I need to check if it will fit with seat jackers on the passenger side or goes over the PS pump. Probably the next weekend project.

 

I found a bracket for the engine bay

https://www.kamdesignstudios.com/compressor-mount-v2

 

Nice! I saw that but I didn't see the bracket shot. Is it great?

 

It holds up pretty well. It doesn't bounce up and down but there is slight side to side movement. I'm going to make a bracket to help with that. For the most part, its nice. I'll take a picture when I can.

 

I haven't posted the latest updates but I will soon. So far I've installed Firestone air bags for the rear suspension, a Yakima rack with Jet stream bars on the Snugtop Shell and onboard ARB air compressor. Here's a little teaser. Still need to find the time to wire her up. The mount is from https://www.kamdesignstudios.com/compressor-mount-v2

 

That looks solid. When you say side to side, are you talking about forward, back? I'm sure I could flex the inboard/engine side fore and aft with man hands. But it looks tight in pics.

 

Yeah, very slight forward and back movement. I want to make a bracket that attaches to the firewall and the mount to help with it. Over all, it’s very solid. I have notice that the compressor gets very hot in the engine bay after a drive. I hope it doesn’t mess up the compressor over time.

 

BTW, wiring is stupid on these things unless you are using front and rear ARB lockers. I figured out how to hide and clean it up with my install, but my install is unusual. @daveeasa can probably tell you how to bypass a bunch of stuff, unless you need it.

 

I've noticed with any weight and cantilever, there is flex in the bay because the anchor points are sheet metal for the most part. A tie in to the firewall will take care of any concerns, IMO. Everyone mounts in the engine bay. Where you are heat is not a problem. Even with lockers and driving, the compressor is not on all the time. No problem.

 

That’s what I did with some riv nuts in the fender wall. It’s solid now, no movement!

 

I got my bracket recently too, but of course haven't even begin to attempt.

I do have a bunch of the connectors, buuut, if I'm dumping the switch in the bracket (I think his info says you can snap it right in?) then maybe I just go with their lame freebie harness after all? On the Tacoma I'm going bedside and switchpros so definitely won't use it there. Don't really love inline fuses though, I kinda prefer the MBRF or blue sea circuit breaker, but I can see how maybe they want each side fused independently.

 

Well, I might have done a big no-no, but I have a BS breaker and I needed a fat run to the battery. So out the firewall on passenger side, BS breaker (100a), #2 cable to battery and the inline fuses at the battery. I'm at the battery with #2, haven't got past that tonight.

 

Yeah, I really like the MRBF at the battery terminal, clean and no extra stuff, you really don't expect that one to go and you can fuse it high if you're fusing downstream, it's just there to protect the cable from hitting the chassis.

 

I like it, I have no idea what you are talking about But, I'll take some pics and you can tell me if it's a no go. I think it's fine, because I'm using the 40 amp inline fuses at the battery, the #2 cable is pretty much moving the battery to the firewall I think. I put in the breaker because I haven't another good on hand method of going from 2- #8 to 1- #2, and it gives me a cut off. Now, I have to take pictures in the dark

 

Yeah, totally, circuit breaker is great to change gauge w a lug.

MRBF just goes on the terminal and fuses it as close as you can possibly get. Here's a double, they have singles and maybe a triple too?

 

And now it all makes sense, thank you, David.

 

I got bored with my stock exhaust so my buddy and owner of ERD Offroad is doing a custom stainless steel cat-back exhaust. We're doing an x-pipe with two Borla ProXS mufflers dumped behind the axle. Since the truck is in the shop, he's also building me a set of new leaf spring shackles with poly bushings for my new hangers from BBM Racing.




New hangers from BBM Racing.

 

Soooooo sick!!

 

Once I get the truck back, I'll get a video of how it sounds.

 

Thanks! About how much does an exhaust cost in your area? Wanting to mod mine as well.

 

The Borla mufflers cost be $224 for two on Jegs and another $700 for the material and labor.

In coming pics that I just received.

 

Update on the exhaust. Still need supports and down pipes.

 

WOW!

 

Can’t wait hear it! You going to record the sound?

 

Sure am. I should've recorded the stock set up with the magna flow.