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2006 Access Cab Stereo, Speakers, Backup Cam, Info

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by ZAR, Jan 13, 2021 at 1:17 PM.

  1. Jan 13, 2021 at 1:17 PM
    #1
    ZAR

    ZAR [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Member:
    #50062
    Messages:
    13
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '06 Silver AC SR5 4x4 TRD Off-Road
    Finished doing a major overhaul to my trucks speaker and stereo system. Wanted to post some info I had a hard time finding or didn't know until after I started working on the project.

    For reference I have a 2006 AC with the front door tweeters and woofers and the CD and tape player Toyota radio. My goal was to replace all of the factory speakers, add a backup camera, and Apple CarPlay without installing a new amp and having to do custom wiring from it (in hindsight might not have been that much more difficult). I purchased everything from Crutchfield as their technical and customer support is the best I have ever dealt with, and because they include install gear when you purchase through them.

    So, for the receiver I chose the Sony XAV-AX1000 because it has a backup camera input, supports CarPlay, has a physical volume knob, and is powerful enough to power aftermarket speakers without an amp. Plus, it has pre-out channels for the front and rear speakers and a sub if I ever do want to add an amp and sub.

    [​IMG]

    To replace the front door speakers I chose the JBL 601CF Component System since they had good reviews and the included tweeters would fit under the factory grill.
    [​IMG]
    To replace the rear door speakers I chose the JBL 621F 2-way speakers.
    [​IMG]

    For the backup cam, I chose the Boyo VTL17LTJ because it had decent reviews, was fairly cheap, included a license plate mount, and included LED lights that I figured would help it see better at night.
    [​IMG]

    The stuff below Crutchfield will send to you automatically if you purchase speakers and a receiver from them.

    Included Install Gear (from Crutchfield):
    • Metra 70-8121 Amp Bypass Harness
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    • Metra HWP-0001
    • Metra ISOPK Screw Pack
    These last two items were included but I found to be useless for any of this, not sure why either were included or what you would really use them for. I think the screw pack is for the Sony as they always use special threads on their screws and holes and were included to fasten the factory radio brackets to the dash kit they included but as I'll talk about later, I had to modify the dash kit to get it to work.

    Necessary but not included install items:
    • Additional speaker wire for wiring component speakers to crossover
    I used some leftover speaker wire from my home theater setup.
    • Some type of fastener to secure new tweeters to factory brackets
    I used some velcro alfa-lok strips as they have a large operating temp range and were relatively cheap.
    [​IMG]
    • Some electrical tape
    • Car speaker spade connectors (idk what the official name of these are, but it's what the Metra speaker harnesses use at the ends)
    Optional items I used to make myself happy:
    • Zip ties
    • Posi-tap connectors
    [​IMG]
    • 1/2" Wire loom split tubing (for running the backup cam wires)
    [​IMG]
    • Black Silicone RTV Sealant
    [​IMG]

    Install:
    When I first started looking into replacing my radio and factory speakers Crutchfield said the access cabs with the door tweeters have a factory amplifier under the radio in the dash. However, this is only the case for I believe the 2000-2004 models. 2005-2006 AC's relocated the amp to the storage compartment under the rear passenger seat. Some of you probably know that but I didn't until I took my dash apart and couldn't find the amp anywhere. Crutchfield's install guide was never updated or modified to include this, probably because few people have this set up but nevertheless that's where it is. This also answered the question of why the amp bypass harness was so damn long, it has to run from the factory amp location to the dash!

    I removed the factory amp entirely and just ran the bypass harness from the passenger's seat compartment through the compartment with the jack and hand tools. Then, I removed the weatherstripping on the driver's side so I could run the harness under the carpet to the dash. I also wrapped most of the harness with electrical tape to make myself feel better. Then, all I had to do was wire the 2 included bypass harnesses to the harness and connector included with the Sony. I used crimp connectors but it probably would've been easier to use those twist-on style caps instead. Pretty straightforward and probably the easiest part of the whole install.

    I didn't want to have to deal with mounting the backup camera on or in the tailgate handle so I chose one with a license plate bracket. I think mounting it on the tailgate handle would give you a better view but this way was easier and not permanent. I ran the cable through the spare tire lowering hole thing making sure to keep the cable to the side. I ran the cable over the frame into the driver's side tail light. I removed the tail light and fed the cable from the camera through the hole the light cables run through.

    I tapped into the reverse light positive and negative wires using the Posi-Taps. My camera included a green LED light trigger wire which I tapped into the positive reverse light wire with the red power wire from the camera cables. One of the guys I talked to at Crutchfield said not to tap into the ground wire of the reverse light because it might cause signal issues with the camera but I haven't noticed anything. I ran all of the wires for the reverse cam through the 1/2" wire loom tubing under the truck to hopefully prevent any wiring issues.

    I basically just followed the frame of the truck that the existing harness ran along until it reached the rubber grommet under the driver's seat.

    I used a razor blade to cut a small hole just big enough to feed the yellow RCA camera cable through. I then met the amp bypass harness wiring from there and ran it up to the dash through the carpet. I sealed the hole I made with the silicone RTV sealant. I also used some to seal the wire loom opening where the cable from the camera went through the spare tire hole in the bed.

    For the included microphone from the Sony, I removed the A-pillar trim panel and met the camera and bypass wires under the dash.

    Now, this was the part of the install I was least prepared for: the front door speakers. The guy at Crutchfield told me everything I bought would be plug and play with the included wiring harnesses and the factory wiring. This was only sort of true. Since I went with a component system up front to replace the factory tweeters and woofers, I had to run the new JBL speakers through the included crossover otherwise the tweeters will likely get blown out as soon as they see a low frequency signal. It was my understanding that I would just be able to use the included Metra speaker harnesses to plug into the factory connectors from the door to the new speakers but this is not the case because of the crossover. This probably isn't a surprise to many of you but I have never done an install with separate woofers and tweeters and didn't realize the factory wiring and speakers probably didn't do any sort of filtering of the sound to either speaker. When you remove the front door trim panels you'll see that the factory woofers and tweeters and both powered from the same wiring just spliced together. Thus, you have to use a crossover if you want to install a component system. Really not bad once I understood what needed to be done, but the inclusion of the Metra harnesses confused me into thinking I could use them for the front doors. Not sure if this is common but JBL does NOT include those nice female spade speaker connectors with their speakers. I cut the white factory connector part off 2 of the Metra harnesses to use the red spade connectors for both the front door woofers. The tweeters I just tightly wrapped the speaker wire through the holes in the connectors and covered in electrical tape. The 2 other Metra speaker harnesses I saved for the rear doors, as those were actually plug-and-play.

    I simply cut the wires connected to the factory woofers and removed them from the factory housings. I drilled a small hole in each of the black woofer housings to run the new speaker cable through to the crossovers. I found that the JBL woofers do not quite match up with the existing 4 screw holes in the black housings, however I made it work with a combination of the screws JBL gives you and the factory ones. The factory tweeters were easy to remove and I reused the factory brackets so I wouldn't have to make my own for the new JBLs. The factory bracket screws into the back of the factory tweeter but I used the velcro alfa-lok to secure the new tweeter to the bracket. It feels like a bit of a tight fit but everything went back together nicely. I ran speaker cable from the new tweeter to the crossover, which I also mounted with the velcro, near the woofer. I made sure not to run the wire near any pinch points or door clips. I sketched up a bit of a wiring diagram in order to wire the inputs of the crossovers correctly. The drivers door speaker cables are green and blue with gray and meet a connector mounted on the door that runs pink and purple wire into the door. I traced the connection the to factory speakers to determine which wires were positive vs. negative. I ended up removing both of the factory wiring connectors that connected to the stock speakers to avoid confusion and such. I used Posi-taps to tap into the wires in the door.

    The rear door speakers were by far the easiest to install. I simply removed the screws holding the old speakers to the housing and cut the wires connecting them. The Metra harnesses were helpful here as all I needed to do was connect the red ends to the new speakers and plug the connector into the factory one.

    The last annoying thing I discovered during all of this was the Metra dash kit doesn't really work with the factory brackets. The factory radio brackets use 4 screws per side to hold the factory radio in, the Sony is only single-din tall behind the screen and thus only needs two screws per side to mount to the factory brackets. You do need the factory radio brackets to install a new receiver. The Metra dash kit is just a cosmetic piece to eliminate the gaps between the Sony and the dash. I cut mine after the first hole as this hole lines up with one of the unused holes remaining on the factory brackets. The rest of the plastic interferes with the factory brackets. I tried putting the Metra piece behind the factory brackets directly onto the side of the Sony but then the screws aren't long enough to go through both the factory brackets and the Metra kit. Sony uses some weird threading for their screws so no hardware store will have a longer screw you can use instead. Better to just modify the kit like I did. Then it was just a matter of putting all the trim pieces back on and it was all finished. Took me longer than it should have but I kept finding new issues.

    I really enjoy the new setup and think it sounds pretty great, definitely night and day better than the factory setup. Also really nice to have a backup cam and Apple CarPlay now.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2021 at 1:24 PM
    ick23, CodyP, Darkness and 4 others like this.
  2. Jan 13, 2021 at 1:40 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
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    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Nice write up. Thank you.
     
    ZAR [OP] likes this.
  3. Jan 13, 2021 at 4:42 PM
    #3
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2020
    Member:
    #54157
    Messages:
    192
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Northern CA
    Vehicle:
    '05 SR5 AC 2wd
    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    It's good that you used crimped connectors and not twist on. The twist are meant for solid core home wiring and can vibrate loose in a vehicle.
     
  4. Jan 13, 2021 at 7:40 PM
    #4
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2019
    Member:
    #35520
    Messages:
    513
    Looks good OP. I can't wait until aftermarket manufacturers move to OLED screens though.
     
    ZAR [OP] likes this.
  5. Jan 13, 2021 at 9:05 PM
    #5
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Member:
    #35992
    Messages:
    846
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    2000 Limited 4x4 AC
    Excellent write up and good work!
     
    ZAR [OP] likes this.

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