2005 Tundra Double Cab Driveshaft ...

I actually worked at the Howey mansion as a teen for Mrs. Zona, who owned it at the time. Had free access to everything there. She had a tan 1970 Cadillac convertible I would've killed for. An acquaintance of mine stayed in the guest house along the hwy for a while. I had a few friends that lived through the 19/27/441 corridor. I used to go out that way when I was younger to fish and gig the grove ponds. Speaking of the mouse ... it's a small world, after all, eh.

If you get a sec, take a pic. I'm really curious what you're looking at.

 

@shifty` That is great, that you worked there and are familiar with the interior. It came close to being demolished, but thankfully this investment group acquired the property, cleaned up the overgrowth, and made it more or less as regal as it was when you remember it. Definitely a small world...after all.

 

Hopefully they fixed the issues with bats and starlings getting into the place.

The marble stairs were freaking nuts. It would've been a shame if it got torn down.

 

@shifty` I agree. I was passing through Howey years ago when I saw the house for the first time. Followed it pretty much ever since, and any time I had reason to be in the area, I would check it out. Man - they don't build them like that anymore. Next time I'm in the area I'll grab some photos!

 

Did you ever figure out what the white thick thing was?

 

Haven't had the chance to crawl under there again. I may have to remove the crossmember. Some damn kind of bushing is what it looks like. When I get it removed, If I can't figure it out, I'll take a photo to post.

 

@shifty` - Crawled under the truck and was able to move this thing through the crossmember and then I placed it where I believe it actually should go, but I still don't know what the hell it does.

And do I also understand correctly that 22 pounds of torque is correct for the bolts that attach the transmission bracket to the crossmember? Man that seems awful light.
Anyway, I know you have been losing sleep at night trying to figure out what I was talking about so here you go!

 

@w666 - That's it! Next question, what the heck is it supposed to do?

 

That's the actual transmission mount. It bolts to the cross member on one side (4 bolts) and the transmission on the other. The picture shows it upside down. The white plastic thing aligns the mount in the cross member.

 

Yup, and if it's out, that's pretty damn messed up! Consider it the thing that makes sure your transmission stays centered in the truck. I forget what you call the type of thing, lock pin, position pin, fixing pin, linchpin?

And yes on the torque, it's step E in the TSB that I'd linked up:

​

 

Hey @shifty` -
First of all, thank you for your constant insights and additional details, almost anticipating what I'm going to need next before I ask.
I installed the new bolts. I didn't use PermaTex 'cause I didn't have any. I've ordered it and it will be coming in.

Initially everything seemed to be fine.
Now it seems when I accelerate slowly I have that vibration which starts around 35 or 40 miles an hour. If I take my foot off the throttle, this vibration seems to go away. If I do a harder or faster acceleration up to speed, no real issues (that I can tell but what the heck do I know?) with the vibration. I am perplexed.

(I do plan on backing the bolts out and putting Permatex on and then reinstalling them in order and torqued properly.
Still can't figure this other thing....)

I welcome your insights and anyone else's.
Thanks!

 

I mean, the 'stops when letting off gas' is a significant symptom that narrows it down.

Tell me this: Does it seem worse if you're accelerating up a hill, like, under load? What about while turning?

 

I can't honestly tell about the up the hill acceleration piece because the closest that passes for Hill's here are the interstate overpasses.
Very unscientific, but like I said, accelerating slowly and the vibration is noticeable. Accelerating quickly to get up to speed and there's no real sign of vibration. While accelerating slowly, when I let off the throttle, vibration pretty much disappears. I haven't noticed anything about doing this while turning and I will pay attention to that today or tomorrow.

I will let you know what if anything I discover.

 

Hmmm...maybe now is the time to check the ATF level in your "sealed" transmission, and perhaps even a drain/refill for good measure. Use ONLY Toyota WS fluid.

 

I feel/think the vibration in the steering wheel (I need to check and confirm if I can isolate exactly where). But the tires have been balanced. That was the first thing I had done when this whole adventure started. It does seem to come back when I get back into the throttle.

I do have a code reader and I had nothing come up with codes either. That doesn't mean anything 100% but...

 

Can't hurt to rotate tires, but I doubt tires would do this at that low of speed.

With you feeling it in the steering wheel, I can't help but wonder if it's one of your front wheel bearings.

I'm just surprised you're not hearing a noise. A lot of times wheel bearings will either be crunchy, give you a WUBWUBWUBWUB drone, or other.

Anyway, folks on here know how I feel about ChrisFix, but he has good content. Check your wheel bearings. This test isn't definitive, but it's a decent sanity check. Start at the 1m mark and watch all the way thru.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvKWGjmPKoc#t=1m09s​

 

PS - hand dandy chart we pass around here defining where to slap/pull to check various components:

 

Hey @shifty` that visual chart you attached looks super helpful.
Looks like I'm going to have to play detective and work through a process of elimination. That's really what this whole thing has taught me so far especially since I decided it was the drive shaft at the very beginning, but thankfully I've been humbled into learning a thing or two.

 

Every day is a good day to learn. And you're never too old to learn it.

I'll say, some things are universal. But this truck also has a few quirky things I never had to deal with on other brands. Mostly in a good way. Some are annoying.

It is what it is!

 

I agree.
Every day is a good day to learn.

And the last vehicle I had that was as reliable, that I knew as well as I did, was my 1972 Mach I.
This truck has its challenges but they are far outweighed by the fact it is STILL a great vehicle.

It definitely is what it is!

 

I will say some threads about people having issues with weird vibrations and such will describe really weird symptoms only to find out it is a bad ignition coil. I wouldn't rule that out. Tundras don't like to throw codes for it so you may wait a while to get a code. Without a code your only option is to either pull all ignition coils and inspect for cracks in the tubes or to replace all 8 (expensive) and see if your issue goes away.

Just an idea and could be totally wrong but just wanted to throw that out there.

 

definitely appreciate the insight. Working through the process of elimination until I figure out what it is. This community is going to help me get me there. Thanks again...

 

If this were my truck, and I were you, next thing I'd be doing is checking wheel bearings.

Granted, checking coils isn't tough. It's a single 10mm bolt and lift the coil out. The warning I'll give you is this: If you can do the work while keeping the coil harness connected, do it. The clip that holds the retainer clip holding the electrical connector on the coil pack has a penchant for snapping off.

 

I agree. If you have one that's really sloppy you should be able to tell easy. Though I think you would be getting some noise as well.

 

It doesn't seem to be the wheel bearings. I tried revving the engine with the truck in park and didn't get anything similar in vibration to what happens when i hit 30-35mph. I'm still befuddled with how the vibration disappears immediately when i take my foot off the throttle. There is a metal squeaking sound I just noticed when I move from a stop (It sounds like it could be brake hardware) and it too stops if I take my foot of the gas.
I have not checked differential or transmission fluid levels yet, nor have i checked the coils. If/when I do check the coils, I'll be super careful with the clips.

Am I at least marginally right in presuming this vibration is not the driveshaft or center bearing, as the vibration disappears when the engine is not under load/throttle, and the driveshaft turns at the same speed as it is attached to the rear diff (and this is a 2WD)? The driveshaft continues to turn at the appropriate speed anytime the truck is in motion, right? (this may seem a ridiculous question, but I am trying to figure this out and learned my lesson early on about diagnosing without eliminating all the usual suspects)...

 

To add to this, The vibration happens regardless of where RPMs are.

 

A few months ago I replaced the ECM. The unit I purchased was specifically for my truck's VIN.
They sent a flash drive to plug into the computer port and I followed Their instructions.

It occurs to me the vibration started about a month after installing the new unit. Could it be a problem with the unit or the way the updates were installed? I haven't had any codes appear.

I know it seems I may be grasping at straws.
I have not checked the coils - that's next.
I'll check the center bearing again, just for sanity sake...

 

Hey Everyone -

Just had a chance to get back and report that I'm currently consuming a massive slice of Humble pie.

The initial assessment of it being the carrier bearing and you joints were spot on. I couldn't wrap my head around how the vibration happened when I had my foot on the throttle but went away when I took my foot off or let it coast. Talking to an old friend, when I told him the carrier bearing was within tolerances he raised his eyebrow. He told me the drive shaft will behave differently when under load. When underload it's being instructed on how to move, but when I release my foot from the throttle, it does what it's supposed to. That was my aha moment and when I realized I probably needed to go right back to the beginning.

I went to a shop which has a great reputation in town and they reached out to me the next day to confirm the carrier bearing was shot as well as two of the 3U joints so they were going to swap them all out.

I also asked them to take a look at my engine to which they told me just about every seal is leaking except the oil pan.
244,000 miles and I guess I can't be surprised, but the truck has been really good to me.

The next thing I'm gonna have to figure out is whether I'm gonna have all these seals replaced or maybe look into getting a new engine.

Thank you again to everyone who weighed in.

If you are reading this, and you're dealing with a similar issue, first things first, I have someone look at your driveshaft and carrier bearing.

 

This is an exaggeration. The most common leak point is the valve covers and it will literally coat the entire engine. However, with the VVTi engines like in your '05 and my '06, the cam seals are also known to leak down the front of the block. Even my truck had to have all the valve cover gaskets (etc.) replaced because it was dumping oil out the driver's side of the block. Info on what you need to replace w/valve covers etc is here. Start with that, then wipe down the block and undercarriage, then monitor for more leaks. For cam seals, check for signs of oil seepage coming out of and/or near the timing covers of your V8, like this.

You may not even need to replace valve cover gaskets, just re-torque to spec, but at 244k, they've done their job. And for the cam seals, I was able to curb my leaking you saw in that 2nd link using

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 as indicated in that thread, I think. One treatment and about 200 miles of driving did the trick, IIRC.

You're going way overboard here, come back to land!