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2004 4.7L Timing belt replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by JRes1, Dec 31, 2019.

  1. Dec 31, 2019 at 5:49 AM
    #1
    JRes1

    JRes1 [OP] New Member

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    Hello, I am new to forum. My 2004 currently has 27K miles but never had the timing belt changed. I am second owner, purchased with 19K. I am assuming a 15 year old belt needs to go? I have seen several videos on Utube but if there is one recommended as some leave out critical details, recommendation would be appreciated. I will purchase the kit on Amazon so thanks for that recommendation.
     
  2. Dec 31, 2019 at 6:29 AM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Yes sir. Change that belt just in case! Per the Toyota reccos, they need changing every 9 years or 90k miles. Many go longer but why risk it? Change out your radiator, as well, and use the Zerex Asian fluid (or more expensive Toy fluid).
     
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  3. Dec 31, 2019 at 7:03 AM
    #3
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    We need pictures of this 16 year old truck with only 27K miles. Congratulations on that find! Hand Model already gave the best advice. Just make sure you use OEM parts. Most recommend the Aisin timing belt kit off Amazon.


    https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-021-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYWKI
     
    SprinterAE86, Aerindel and speedtre like this.
  4. Jan 5, 2020 at 1:15 PM
    #4
    JRes1

    JRes1 [OP] New Member

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    can you recommend what size impact wrench I need to remove the harmonic balancer bolt? or where I can get the tool?
     
  5. Jan 5, 2020 at 5:03 PM
    #5
    westtx28

    westtx28 New Member

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    I've done several timing belts and I think that if you don't already have a big impact that can handle the crank bolt your better off making a tool like in the pics below. This is on my Tundra but I've used it on my Land Cruiser and GX470 as well. Very simple. With the tool holding the crank pulley in place a nice big breaker bar will loosen it up easily. Spend your money on a 1/2" torque wrench to put it back on properly. This one is nice for for the job. This is a pretty straightforward job with lots of room to work with on the Tundra. I'm a big fan of the 4.7.
     
  6. Jan 5, 2020 at 6:07 PM
    #6
    DSTundra

    DSTundra New Member

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    Back when I owned my 2001 Tundra, I used a Schley 64300 pulley holding tool when I changed my timing belt.

    Dave
     
  7. Jan 6, 2020 at 3:52 AM
    #7
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    I made something much like that for doing subarus. Just a chunk of flat stock with a pair of bolts in it and a bit ground out of one side to make room for the socket. Sadly I loaned it out and it got lost and now I have to make a new one.
     
  8. Jan 6, 2020 at 5:11 AM
    #8
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Change the radiator while your at it. Plastic do deteriorate. I got Denso brand from Amazon. Along with the Aisin belt, tensioner, pump kit.
     
  9. Jan 6, 2020 at 9:04 AM
    #9
    JRes1

    JRes1 [OP] New Member

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    thanks for all the info. As I watch several of the videos; one video by 1a auto show positioning the timing markes on the cam pulleys at the I mark and leaving them positioned there. Another video shows aligning to these markes and then rotating engine until the cams are aligned to the T? I am trying to determine which one is correct?
     
  10. Jan 6, 2020 at 9:39 AM
    #10
    kz195688

    kz195688 New Member

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    I believe the timing marks are the same on the 4.7 engine but on the VVTi you have to line the timing marks up and then turn it a few degrees clockwise to the “T” mark. The 05-06 Tundras with the 4.7 have the VVTi engine. I believe the cam sprockets are different between the 4.7 and the 4.7 VVTi engines. I have done the t-belt jobs on my 99 LC and 06 tundra and the on 06 tundra I had to turn the timing marks a few degrees to the “T” mark. I’m sure someone with more experience can elaborate the reasons why this is required. Have fun.
     
  11. Jan 6, 2020 at 9:43 AM
    #11
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Crank and cam have to all align and don't let it slip. 1 tooth off can mess things up. If I remember correctly, the belt i got was pre-marked.

    You be fine, just follow the steps and make sure you do not have left over nurses and bolts. Try to have a clear/ clean work area helps.
     
  12. Jan 6, 2020 at 10:02 AM
    #12
    41bigdawg

    41bigdawg Let the BIG DAWG Eat

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    There is nothing difficult about this job, a good quality 1/2 inch drive impact will make short work of the crank bolt, take your time, take pictures along the way so you know how it goes back together and follow the directions and you will be fine :) Definitely change the water pump while you are in there. Everything is marked for timing alignment...its not hard just takes some time...good luck
     
  13. Jan 6, 2020 at 3:10 PM
    #13
    JRes1

    JRes1 [OP] New Member

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    thanks for the encouragement. I am down to removing the timing belt. all went well for removing the harmonic balancer. I went to home depot and bought a rechargeable impact wrenche 300 ft lb torque. took it right off. BTW HOme depot has a smoking deal on ryobi tools. buy a 2 battery, charger and case for 99.00 then you get a tool of choice free!!! my wrench was 119 all by itself but for 99 I got 2 batteries, the wrench, and a carrying case. can't go wrong.
     
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  14. Jan 6, 2020 at 3:13 PM
    #14
    41bigdawg

    41bigdawg Let the BIG DAWG Eat

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    Good deal, only problem is I would still be standing there trying to decide which tool to get and then I would buy all of them...lol
    Glad you have this job figured out, you will be good for another 100K :)
     
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  15. Jan 6, 2020 at 3:43 PM
    #15
    westtx28

    westtx28 New Member

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    As far as the timing marks are concerned, just follow the instructions that come with the Aisin kit for your year model range. I still had the booklet and it instructs the following for the Tundra:
    • 2000-04:
      • Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned.
    • 2005-08:
      • Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned.
      • Turn the crankshaft clockwise a further 50° until pulley timing mark aligned with guide pulley bolt.
      • Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move forward 25°
    • 2009:
      • Turn the crankshaft clockwise until notch on sprocket guide is aligned with mark on oil pump body.
      • Ensure camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned.
      • Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 50° until notch on sprocket guide is at approximately the 12 o'clock position.
      • Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move approximately 25° counterclockwise and will no longer be aligned.
    The whole point is to get the cams to a neutral position so they wont jump while the belt is off. For your '04 non-VVT-i piece of cake. The most important thing is to match the marks that are on the new timing belt with the physical marks on the crank and cam sprockets. Mare sure the arrows on the belt are pointing out to the front of the truck and that the R-Cam mark means passenger side and L-Cam is driver side.

    Like what was previously mentioned. It's not a hard job on this truck. Just use a sharpie and zip locks to keep all the nuts and bolts straight, take your time and be methodical, and follow the steps that come with the kit.
     
  16. Jan 6, 2020 at 4:58 PM
    #16
    JRes1

    JRes1 [OP] New Member

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    thanks for the clarity. belt install tomorrow ran out of daylight
     
  17. Jan 6, 2020 at 11:09 PM
    #17
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    No matter what, once you have the belt on, turn over the engine by hand several times to make sure nothing is going to hit. As long as you do this step even if you did the job wrong you aren't going to destroy your engine and worst case is that you have to do it again.

    And don't worry if the timing marks on the belt don't line up again after you do turn it over, you would have to turn over the engine many many many times before you got back to that same point as one revolution of the crank does not equal one revolution of the belt.
     
  18. Jan 7, 2020 at 5:16 AM
    #18
    school teacher

    school teacher New Member

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    This may be too late for you but I recommend that you also replace the water pump and all coolant hoses. My 2002 Tundra 4.7 has 258,000 miles on the clock and I have had the timing belt replaced three times, most recently at 245,000 miles. Each time, my mechanic recommended replacing the water pump as everything around it has been removed and it is easy to get to. I have had the radiator replaced twice, at about 190,000 miles and at 145,000 miles. The replacement at 190,000 was at the same time I had the timing belt replaced.

    I bought my Tundra Limited new in October, 2001 and love the truck. Overall it has been an excellent vehicle but time and miles take their toll. I had the transmission replaced at about 250,000 miles with a Toyota rebuilt unit (transmission failed when I started the vehicle in my driveway)..The power steering system was replaced at about 255,000 miles when it developed a massive leak, also in my driveway.

    other issues over the years have been to replace all of the air conditioning system, last year at about 240,000 miles and the central support and u-joints in the drive line, at about 190,000 miles. I will replace the central support and all u-joints soon as I am getting a vibration in the drive line above 50 mph.

    I had a 1983 Ford 300 cubic inch that went 331,000 miles in a Ford van and was still going strong when I gave the van to Goodwill when i bought my new 2002 Tundra.
     
  19. Jan 7, 2020 at 11:15 AM
    #19
    JRes1

    JRes1 [OP] New Member

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    the new belt goes on easy. In the video the guy struggled with getting it on the pulleys mine was easy. all my marks align, IS there something wrong. dont want to proceed without knowing I ma good
     
  20. Jan 12, 2020 at 6:25 AM
    #20
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    First of, easy way to get crank bolt of, breaker bar, crank engine shut right off. Works every time. (Dont do this on Hondas or any engine that spins backward, that's right, counterclockwise.) So, anyways, once belt is on, spin engine over once by hand until marks come back up. Tensioner should of went on last, pull the pin and spin and it should tighten up. Before doing so the right side usually will look like it's 2 teeth retarded, until you spin and tensioner tightens.
     

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