2001 Tundra AC Limited 4WD: did my timing belt jump?

Hi,

I'm a newbie with truks in general and with Tundra specifically.
I'm a decent DIYer, so I thought it would be fun to have some project car. So when I saw a 2001 Tundra AC Limited 4WD with 280k miles on the marketplace, I went and got it.

It is in crank no run condition. So I had to tow it. Cosmetically it has some bangs here and there, but I'm ok. I can fix that.




So, for the past few days I'm trying to start it up. Here is what I did so far.

1. Checked all the fuses and relays. All good. Changed the fuel pump relay just in case. The original one was a little bit mangled.
2. Cleaned the MAF and Throttle.
3. There are no error codes, no matter what I do. The RPMs on the board tach is no jumping during crank, but on the OBDII scaner it does increase to over 100.
4. Checked all the ignition coils. All but one seem to be ok, they got power and ground. One of them has some cracks but I think it should be good enough just for starting. I'll definitely replace them later. I couldn't check for spark yet.
5. Now, after googling, reading forum posts and youtube I came to the conclusion that it may be the timing belt. Checked that today and yes, it seems to be it. There are not weird sounds during crank, so I hope pistons, valves are ok. Probably will pull out the spark plugs and go in with a borescope to check later.








What do you guys think? Should I just do the timing belt replament and alignment not matter what at this point?

 

As far as diagnosing your issue i think there are people better than myself that can help, but on the question of doing a timing belt job with a truck with 280k and an unknown history (or even WITH a history) I would 1000% do it and advise it.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/
You need to read this, in it's entirety. You'll find answers to a lot of your questions. As far as your current problem, it does appear that the timing is off. Not knowing the history of the truck, I would recommend replacing the timing belt, water pump and especially the timing belt tensioner because there is a suspected timing belt slip. Use the Aisin kit. It's available on Rock Auto and Summit Racing for around $200. Again, read the attached thread thoroughly! There's years of practical experience and knowledge in there.

 

Go to the auto parts store and get a free loaner compression tester. Check all cylinders and see where what that test reveals before spending money on parts that may or may not fix your problem. Post your compression #s for each cylinder.

 

All the above advice is great. Get the timing right, and be happy you don't have the '05-'06 VVTi engine.

Verify the timing belt is in good shape, first and foremost. Then look into the timing.

Once timing is correct, confirm the cam position wiring is intact, and the crank position sensor wiring is intact (and no nicks on the harnesses, and crank position sensor wiring is routed properly) BEFORE you button things up. Verify both of the coolant temp sensors (on the passenger side of the throttle body, one green, one grey or black) are intact, not broken. Check every fuse in the truck, including the fuses in the engine bay. I'd also check - and this info is in the thread @ATBAV8 posted - confirm there's been no water intrusion into the ECM and in-dash fuse panel. You'll see pics of examples of both cases linked from that thread in the "electrical issues" section of the 1st or 2nd reply.

EDIT: While a compression test is a good idea, don't be dissuaded if one cylinder is low or no. One guy who was posting on here found no compression on one cylinder, replaced the engine and couldn't get it running, only to tear into the "bad" engine and find a valve was stuck. Perfectly good running engine with a stuck valve got pulled, and we still to this day have no idea if he ever got it running with the new engine!

If it still won't fire, confirm you have fuel pressure. This video may help, but has a bit of misinformation in that the fuel pump (at least per the last time I checked FSM) isn't sending fuel unless the key is in the START position (not just "ON") or the crank position sensor is telling the ECM the engine is running which - again - is why that harness needs to be damage free.

(PS - only replace with DENSO brand fuel pump if you think it's the pump)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoerlgT8pck​

 

Thanks guys. I will definitely do the timing belt job with the suggested Aisin kit. Fist I need to see if there is already any internal damage to the engine, like bent valves or destroyed pistons. I hope not, cause if there was, I would've hear clanking, rattle, bang noises during the cranking.

Yes, the golden https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/ I did read and I will read it again and again. I used it actually to make the decisionn to buy. Especially regarding rust, ball joins, etc.
This truck is solid in the body category. I don't see any rust that may be of concern. The only thing realy rusted is the exhaust, which I will definitely replace.

I saw this guy video with pump replacement. There is definitely no rodent damage. Also the previous owner told me that the pump was replaced (not that I trust him 100% ). I will consider changing the fuel filter for sure.

I did try to look and look for any damaged wiring or loose/rotten grounds or anything like that, but couldn't find any.

 

Update. Wohooo!

I have temporary corrected the timing using the idea from this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGZOXrIq2Q8
It worked perfectly. The truck started right up. It basically was off by 4 teeth.

I will definitely now go on and order the timing belt kit, ignition coils, spark plugs, radiator, LBJs and what not and will fix it properly.
At least for now I can move it into my backyard and fix it Sure will not be running it for long like this.

 

Wow. //puts those bits in junkyard toolbox//

 

Nice! Dropping this into the timing belt thread for easy reference. Glad you got it running easy. Hopefully you got an awesome deal on the truck and the frame looks good.

 

BTW, I used a drill bit holder so that someone would hold it while I turn the crank shaft so it doesn't fall into the timing belt enclosure

 

Holy shit I wish I found this vid when my belt jumped when I finished my timing belt / water pump. I had a mild panic attack then just took everything apart and redid it. This would of saved me an extra hour or 2

 

BTW, I know why the timing belt jumped.

I'm basically 50% through the timing belt job now. Removed all the old parts and prepared for install.

It was a rodent nest or something in between the upper and lower intake manifold. The critter basically fel into the timing belt and were crushed. So I guess when this happend, the timing belt jumped. I'll post some pictures from my phone later.

Probably a lesson to be learned is to check for nests in that cavity.

I did vacuum it the best I could. Not going to take it apart now.

 

As for the rodent, you could say, his time has come.

 

BTW, part of the reason he got in there can also be that the "triangle" shape plastic cover thing is missing. Seems like the last time this job was done, the guy did not put it in. Now I need to find it. Anybody knows the part number for that, and where can I find it? I looked on the Rock Auto website, and can't find it.

 

It's open from the sides of the intake manifold also on the earlier models with silver intake, there's ample evidence of rodents nesting under the manifold in all years.

From what another member found, apparently on some other vehicles using the 2UZ-FE, unsure whether it's VVTi or non-VVTi though, there are a few with foam blocks or something to cover the holes; our trucks didn't have those. I want to say the Land Cruisers might.

But yeah, don't have a part number for you on that. I couldn't find it in parts for my '06 when digging through multiple diagrams.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll try to maybe cut some piece of plastic myself then. Trying to keep searching online too.

 

Yeah dang, I really can't find anything either, might be best found in a junkyard

 

Seems to be this 11348 part.
From here https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sh...2001&ukey_driveLine=6791&ukey_trimLevel=18289

 

Oh hey, there we go. I did find ONE on eBay,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1835784194...ajnX9pOQj2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Google searching with that part number from the listing though gives me mixed results

 

Even if it does cover the front hole, they can still get in from the side holes on the silver intake, between the runners.

 

True. I saw those side holes. I've seen remnants of the critter there and some gunk.

 

Finished my timing job
All good. Truck runs nice. Did like 50miles as a test drive all went good.

Additionally to the timing belt kit and the serpentine belt kit I did:

• Spark plug(s) replaced
• Ignition coil(s) replaced
• Thermostat replaced
• Air filter replaced
• Throttle body cleaned
• Radiator replaced
• Obviously coolant flush

One trick I used to loosen and torque the crankshaft puley was to use the old serpentine belt like this



And pinch on itself. Depending are you loosening or tightening, the pinch will be on the bottom or on the top.

And on the other side tie it up to the frame and either use some vicegrips or a prybar like I did:

 

I also bought the lower ball joints. Need to lift the truck and check if possible what brand are the current ones and if they have any play. Probably will swap them anyway just for peace of mind

I do have a P0330 error code. It must be iether dirty ingectors or one of the knock sensors got damaged by the critter nest. Will see what I can do about it later.

 

P0330 is knock circuit failure specifically, which would suggest it's in the wiring. It's not the injectors. Got a snake cam? I bought one recently to look under my manifold and peek around. I've found it handy for a gaggle of other things.

Over the last three years I've popped a P0328 (knock circuit high) twice now, out of the blue, within 1 mile of leaving the house on a cold engine. Both times it put me in a degraded mode; not limp mode, but definitely my operations were nerfed. 1st time I assumed bad gas, before looking up the meaning of the code. I'm not so sure what caused it now, cleared the code on both occasions, and kept on going. Given yours is a 'circuit fail' type code, I doubt it'll go away with clearing, you probably have a wire to mend under the intake.

 

Yep, I have a camera. Cause I used it to clean/vacuum the nest of out there the best I can. Ok thanks, I'll check again. Either way, if it is a wire chewed up by the critter, I'll have to remove the top intake in order to fix it.

 

Ok, I went in. Surprisingly, nothing wrong with the wiring. Cleaned up everything best I could.




All looks good and clean. Put everything back.
Code dissapeared, but then today after several days, CEL is back. Need to see if it is the same code.

 

Checked today with the scanner, still the same code. I think either the knock sensor is dirty or just bad and need to replace it.

 

Ok, small update

I finally got around and replaced the bank 2 Knock Sensor (just in case someone needs it, it is the one on the passanger side). That was the culprit.
Now the CEL is off and the truck runs smooth as butter. Full power, quiter and more responsive.

I guess, this concludes this thread

Thanks a lot for you help and good luck everyone.

 

Glad you got it fixed. I need to dig into mine for drivers side knock. Not looking forward to it. Weird part is though, I’ve read around on the internet from other people with 2UZ and my specific set of symptoms. i.e. only pop the P0328 code sporadically. When engine is cold, shortly after starting, doesn’t return, and they’ve done everything, replaced harnesses, replaced sensor, and the shit still happens. I’m worried I’m going to replace the sensor and no change. And given it’s not really hassling me right now, I’m reticent. Like, if I were in there anyway to replace the starter or SAIP, I’d totally do it while in there. But right now, I just clear the code and go months or a year or more with no return. Seems like keeping RPM below 2,250 or so until the temp gauge climbs works to avoid it.

Not a lover of the knock sensor position or operation in these trucks.

 

Ha ha
I don't mind. Since this was my second time removing the air intake, I did it way faster, I think it took me like 45min or so. Probably can start doing some side work for people

I can do it again no problem

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind about cold engine. So far, did not happeen to me.