2001 Tundra, 456000 miles and going strong!

Hello, I am new here, glad to join the forum. I have a 2001 2 door Tundra, 4.7 4WD SR5, just rolled over 456,000 miles. Original engine, bone stock. Transmission got replaced at 410, I learned later it had NEVER had a fluid change.
Anyway I have some strange electrical issues I can't trace.

1. Hi beam indicator dead (bulb replaced and tested)

2. Newly installed fog lights always dead, when the lo beam headlamps are on activating the fog light switch turns on the hi beam headlamps (brand new foglamps and Denso 90987-02006 relay, used Toyota switch that tests ok)

3. The bed lamp in the roof mounted tail light is dead, but the indicator light in the switch is intermittently on when the ignition is on. All fuses test ok, terminals cleaned with spray cleaner.

Some reading suggests the BCM is bad but that is an expensive fuse...

Thanks for any advise, Robert

 

Those 3 together usually have to do with LED bulbs being used and the need for a resistor added to the circuit to augment loss of incandescent current draw of OEM bulbs.

So, what type headlamps, fog lights and bed lamp are you using ?

From the 1st Gen Tundra Mega thread....

Lighting info ...

• Bumper/grille light options HERE.
• If replacing your housings, always buy "CAPA Certified" products to ensure it's not garbage. For higher-quality brands that last longer offering CAPA certified options, use Depo, EagleEyes, TYC. Some say Akkon make good products.
• If swapping to LED headlights or fog lights, there's a common problem w/high beams & fog lights not working after, unless you add a plug-and-play resistor on at least one headlight - this may not be necessary if your headlight housings have the extra "teardrop light" in the corner of the housing. Problems have been reported with LED tail lights also, it's not just headlights. Some circuits require resistance that an LED doesn't deliver.
• Hyperflash problems are common after swapping LEDs into the turn signals. This can be solved installing a Diode Dynamics flashers (avoid the scAmazon knock-offs, buy direct).
• There are H4 mini-projectors available for our trucks, but you'll need to permanently modify the light housing, no oven-baking required, just remove the hat-shaped chrome shroud inside and install the light (detailed instructions). Likewise there are bake-in options for projectors. Check THIS REPLY for common headlight upgrage options, with links.
• For interior LEDs... There's a breakdown of interior light sizes over here. For climate control lighting updates, see here. Dash gauges for earlier 2000-2004 models with replaceable bulbs, check this. The later year model's dash gauges had on-board LEDs and are not replaceable without soldering, color not changeable without sanding the rear of the guage face. REMEMBER: LED lights are polarized. If you install them backwards, they won't light up! If you have one or more not lighting up, try popping out, rotating 180º, and reinstalling.

So ... you wanna buy / just bought a 1st Gen Tundra, eh? | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

Hmm, fog lamps and bed light are incandescent, headlamps are LED. The bed lamp issue existed before I switched the headlight bulbs.

 

You don’t say…..

We can address bed lamp as separate issue then.

As for the other and as I mentioned in first post, most folks experiencing this have had to add resistors to headlamp circuit to augment loss of current draw of OEM incandescent bulbs.. Most folks use the below or similar given it plugs right into the headlamp circuit.

Motorcycle Headlight Load Resistor - H4 LED Headlight Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

 

As for the cargo light, is it incandescent or LED. If LED, have you tried removing the LED bulb and rotate 180deg given LED bulbs are polarity-sensitive.

 

Thanks, I ordered the H4 bulb resistors, I bet that is the issue.
The bed light has incandescent bulbs, not sure what's wrong, I have never removed the whole fixture because it will disintegrate after 25 years.
The brake lights work fine, I will look for a new fixture one of these days.