2001 transmission issue

OK. I'm glad I added the questions in my post. I misunderstood -- thinking that the Check Engine light was on when driving home, and assumed it was still on.

So it appears you never had a fault that triggered the Check Engine light -- the light was simply on because the key was in the Run position and the engine was not running. (as in the image above by @BubbaW ) BTW, are you guys brothers?
You may still have a code stored. It would be worth getting an OBD scanner and checking.

I feel like we've added some useful information to the discussion. Unfortunately, I don't have a great next step for you.

Did the engine die suddenly -- like it would when you turn the key off? Or did it spit and sputter, and die slowly like it was running out of gas.

In general, slowly would point toward something fuel related -- maybe fuel filter?

Quickly would point toward something ignition/electrical related. Not plugs or coils, because you have 8 of those, and they won't all fail at once.

Anyone else have a thought?

 

I'm not convinced it's the transmission. The timing of things does however make me wonder. I changed the fluid and the very next time I commuted to work it died.

Very funny!

To hell with it. I am just going to scrap it and go get a new 2020 Toyota Land Cruiser!

 

I agree with your logic. Whenever something explainable goes wrong, look at the last thing you did. Frequently it's something simple like a connector or hose that was either not re-connected or was unknowingly disturbed.

When you did your drain and refill, you were under the hood to add the fluid. Search around the area where you were adding the tranny fluid. Look for a loose connector from a sensor. Did you do any other service? Check any fluids? Check/clean the air filter?

I know it's a shot in the dark, but it's a logical first step.

Good luck. And let us know if you find anything.

 

Thanks.

After work today I am going to look into it more.

I'll report back if I find anything.

I appreciate the help.

 

I would seriously
Check battery terminals. When they’re loose they can do this kinda stuff.

 

Did it just die or did it sputter and die?

Beat me to it...I was going to say this sounds like something where electrical connectivity was lost for a moment. Hit a bump, jiggle the already loose connection and out she goes...

 

Unless there is some fail safe that I am not aware of, the transmission would keep going till it blew up I think.

If it were meeeeeeeeee, I'd start with the basics. I'd check battery connections, test battery and test the alternator first.

 

Very strange, the fact that it just died and then started back up later makes me think possibly fuel pump is burning out and getting hot, and after you let it sit for 30 min and it was able to cool off you were good to go?

 

I thought that as well but I haven't had a fuel pump that once started, randomly die on me *knocks on wood*. Usually once they are going, you can drive them until you shut it off or at least that has been my experience. The old 'beat on the tank and crank the key test' hasn't let me down yet.

 

First of all, I want to thank everyone for your help. I appreciate the advice. I got a chance to look things over a bit more today after work.

The battery terminals seem fine. The connections are not loose. The battery is less than one year old.

The air filter and ATF level are Ok. I do not see any loose sensor connections.

After a test drive tonight, I am starting to think the timing of events just after an ATF drain and fill was just a coincidence. When it happened, I was stopped at a traffic light and then accelerated and turned left. The truck sputtered and died with just enough time to get onto the berm. Tonight, the truck starts and idles fine with no warning lights at all. When accelerating, the truck sputters and hesitates but does not die. It was only doing this under heavy throttle and is repeatable. When applying gentle throttle it seems to shift fine. I feel like it is more likely an engine issue just by the way it is acting. To me, it acts like it is not getting enough fuel. The truck has it's original 19 year old fuel filter. I know some of you will want to roast me for never replacing it but the filter fittings are so rusty I was afraid of messing with it. My current plan is to replace the fuel filter and see if that solves the problem. A special shout out to tvpierce and his #31 post.

Seem like a reasonable approach?

 

I say that’s a good approach and if the new fuel filter doesn’t solve it then I still stand by fuel pump about to take a total dump.

 

You may be correct. I figured I would start with the fuel filter since it's cheaper and easier to replace.

 

I just want to say. I have these exact symptoms with my subaru due to a MAP sensor failing, causing the TCU to glitch, lighting up the ATF temp light, causing the ECU to shut down the engine. Something to keep in mind if you get stuck. I don't know what the equivalent issue is on a tundra but the tranny and the engine are one, integrated system and talk to each other constantly.

 

I think I'd do the same.

But definately get yourself an OBD dongle like

$6 Launchh OBDII OBD2 Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scan Tool Auto OBD Scanner for Android Devices…

this. It's the most useful diagnostic tool you can own.
I assume you have a smart phone? Apple or Android? If your Apple, you'll want wifi. If Android, then bluetooth.

Then you need an app for your phone which will be $5.

 

Lol. Easy to replace. You're gonna eat those words. I HATE that damn fuel filter.

Anywho, check your TB. Pull the intake tube off and clean that sucker good. Then check your MAF and give it a good cleaning too. Take it out for a spin and see how it does.

 

His fuel lines are rusted/corroded so it should be more fun than you ever had.

 

I’d start soaking the connections in PB blaster for at least a couple of days prior.

 

I hope the best on this one based on @bmf4069 Wall of Shame reporting.

 

I agree 100%... and don't just spray it once and let it sit for a couple days.
First, clean it off with a wire brush, then spray it multiple times a day. Once while your coffee is brewing in the morning. Once again when you head out for work. If your job permits, go out at lunch and hit it again. Then once when you get home from work. And again before you go to bed.

Each time you spray it, follow up by gently tapping on the fastener with a wrench or a small hammer -- it allegedly helps break surface tension.

 

I started the PB blaster last night. I will continue over the weekend and hope to change it out on Sunday.

 

Depending on the rust, you may end up replacing the entire fuel line. Don't want to freak you out, but that's what I had to do to my east coast rust bucket T100. Even not rusted, those lines are on very tight

 

I don't think your fuel filter is the problem. If it is clogged it wouldn't matter if you accelerate fast or slow at some point fuel supply won't keep up with engine demand. If the fuel filter does not want to come off easily I would stop before I create a lot more work for myself and do the easy stuff first that may solve the problem.

I would clean the throttle body and MAF. If the plugs have been in a long time I would change them also and give the engine bay a good looking over for rodent damaged wires and loose connections. Also get a code reader or stop by a place that reads them and check for any soft codes that didn't illuminate the CEL.

 

I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor recently.

I'm not certain of anything but my thinking was a new fuel filter couldn't hurt. I am going to stop at my local auto parts store and have them scan for codes when I pick up the fuel filter later today.

Thanks

 

Okay. I agree replacing the fuel filter can't hurt. Wasn't aware that you did the other repair work already. Hope the fuel filter comes easily for you.

 

I think its an alternator problem. Been meditating on Alternators since last night. Checked mine today with Voltmeter to test theory. Me and Einstein would have been good buddies.

 

...

 

Tesla?

 

Two days of PB Blaster, wire brush, and wasted elbow grease and the fuel line fittings won't break loose. I gave up and dropped it off at my local mechanic shop today to let him try to sort it out.

On the 10 minute drive to the shop, it died again. No check engine lights were on at all. The truck would turn over but would not start. I waited about 45 minutes and it started again and was able to make it to the mechanic.

Weird!

 

Tell us what the mechanic found the intermittent run/stop issue to be. I vote fuel issue. Could be simple as contaminated fuel, but assuming you refill often from the same gas station and wasn't running on the empty mark (when all the water starts to enter the line) that's a bad guess.

 

I will circle back once I find out.

In an act of desperation, I test drove a new 2020 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road today. They are close in exterior dimensions to the first gen Tundras. It's a nice truck. They are not as spacious as the first gens and front visibility isn't as good. The transmission on the Tacoma seems to hunt for gears on the freeway which I didn't care for. The new Tundras are just too big for me. I really like my first gen but it needs to be reliable. Not a fan of breaking down on the road!