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2000 Tundra with high miles

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by XaeroT, Jul 1, 2018.

  1. Jul 1, 2018 at 12:31 PM
    #1
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    I just found/acquired a 2WD Toyota Tundra with very high miles for a great price. To my surprise it had a lot of maintenance paperwork in the glove box.

    Miles: 225,000

    I went through the extensive maintenance records so here is a brief run down with questions (story of this trucks life haha):

    First owner put about an average of 20k miles a year on it with 5k - 9k oil changes at a Toyota dealership (5w30 "genuine Toyota oil"). 3 years 72k miles. Had warranty issues with front brakes and bearings (everything replaced) and had the trailer lights plug replaced twice (so I think they towed with it). Windshield replaced around 70k miles.

    Looks like an ownership change (I never ran a carfax) around 2004 and 80k miles due to miles driven going down and records becoming spotty. Between 2004 and 2013 there was 100k miles driven (11k a year). Oxygen sensors were replaced and the manifolds at 88k miles under warranty. Oil types varied between 5w30 and 10w30, dino oil or synthetic. Someone put Penzoil in it (142k miles) and a K&N filter (107k miles).

    I think another change of ownership happened around 188k miles at the end of 2014. The last two years were around 15k miles each with last record on 10/21/2015 (fuel filter replacement, no milage but after 204k miles). At 204k miles the timing belt and water pump were replaced (I read people say doing it around 150k, I have yet to look at manual to see what official recommendation is). Shocks and struts were replaced after the 204k maintenance timeframe too (no milage on paper).

    The person I acquired it from said they did all the oil changes and had done a transmission oil/filter change. I see no other record of the transmission being touched.

    Currently it has a check engine light with codes for all 4 O2 sensors being bad. According to the records they may have been bad since 150k - 170k miles due to reports of "check engine lights" written on the reports. At 178k miles in 2014 Firestone said the O2 sensors need to be replaced (and charged $99 to do that! Crazy!).

    This Tundra is a limited with all the creature comforts that actually work. Ice cold air too. Shifts great and feels like nothing wrong while driving but I do hear an exhaust leak while accelerating. My local Yoda expert friend said its the left donut leaking beyond the manifolds and to not worry about it.

    No oil leaks seen. Body is perfect (not sure how that happened, not a single ding!). Interior is very used. Some surface rust at body mounting point in middle of frame. The rest is perfect. The exhaust pipe was either replaced at some point or is factory and clean??? I am used to seeing black pipes in cars with this many miles...

    Questions:

    Is it to late to save the engine from the K&N sandblaster (by moving to a factory filter)? It's been in Tennessee its whole life so it may not be as bad as I am thinking it could be. I still would rather run a stock filter. Is there any mods needed to go back to stock or was the K&N a drop in solution? Should I do an injector cleaning when I switch to help clean the intake up from the K&N grit?

    When I go to replace the O2 sensors do you think they will be welded in place? They were replaced once in its lifetime but they have been on a hot exhaust untouched for almost 140k miles. One thing I dont like touching is hot exhaust. What O2 sensor should I use? The stock ones have failed twice...

    Does the transmission get addicted to burnt oil like domestic vehicles? IE: I may see transmission failure soon if he actually did change out the fluid.

    Is it a good idea to convert to synthetic in this truck? I don't know how synthetic reacts to anything that is pitted due to K&N filter? I do know it sticks longer to metal and in lesser vehicles with high miles it can actually cause oil leaks (synthetic turned a Jeep Cherokee I had into an oil fountain, it had 350k miles on it).

    To break all the questions down to one simple question: Will I be able to squeeze out a few thousand more miles on this truck towing a lightweight aluminum boat? Talking about 2000 pounds or so.
     
  2. Jul 1, 2018 at 12:49 PM
    #2
    koditten

    koditten New Member

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    You are way over thinking this. Run 5w-30 and enjoy the thing for another 75k+.

    I've never had an 02 sensor not come out heating the nuts red hot with a propane torch.

    My only worry is running the truck a long time with bad sensors would have kept it in open loop. There has been raw fuel fed to the cats and that is hard on them. Hopefully you catch it soon.
     
    XaeroT [OP] and Hondoman like this.
  3. Jul 1, 2018 at 12:50 PM
    #3
    Hondoman

    Hondoman New Member

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    Id drive it till it shits the bed, which will most likely be a long time from now.
     
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  4. Jul 1, 2018 at 12:52 PM
    #4
    koditten

    koditten New Member

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    If the transmission is still shifting smooth and their is no whine sound, than a drain and fill is all I would do.

    That year had the weaker planatary gear assemblies, so don't tow in over drive if you don't need to.
     
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  5. Jul 1, 2018 at 1:02 PM
    #5
    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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    Short answer, 225k miles is nothing for these trucks.

    Replace filter, clean maf and throttle body, run an injector cleaner through the tank and replace the O2 sensors. Timing belt intervals are 90k so you’re fine there. I’ve run full synthetic on both 4.7’s I’ve had with no issues.

    I’ve heard good and bad things about changing the trans fluid. Some have experienced issues 20-50k after dropping the pan. All while realizing the fluid was still “newish” after 150k plus.

    I would also replace plugs and rear diff fluid. Possibly flush the coolant since you’ll tow frequently. Other than that, enjoy your new tundra.
     
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  6. Jul 1, 2018 at 2:03 PM
    #6
    koditten

    koditten New Member

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    I like everything about this post. The only thing I would add would be to just change that radiator. They are cheap, actually cheaper than a coolant flush. I've always considered them a consumable part.
     
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  7. Jul 1, 2018 at 3:30 PM
    #7
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Sweet deal. Do what the others have said. Maybe another $500 investment on those things (by a shop) or much cheaper (diy).
     
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  8. Jul 1, 2018 at 8:26 PM
    #8
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the replies and ideas! I am good at overthinking things. I will have to make a to-do list.

    Couple questions to add to this:

    The cheap 4 pack of O2 sensors on Amazon (Kwiksen) should be fine? I know some people preach about using factory parts all day long but the originals and warranty replacements both failed. Also 4 O2 sensors for under $100 made my jaw drop.

    Is there problems with the radiator or was that comment really because they are that cheap lol?

    I forgot to add a comment I saw on one paper: "warped rotors". Does this trucks rotors warp over time? Usually heat does that and I actually know a fix to stop warping (cut slots out on new rotor). Right now it looks like new rotors on it now so its not high on the worry list.
     
  9. Jul 1, 2018 at 8:57 PM
    #9
    koditten

    koditten New Member

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    Changing rads is just good policy. You don't need to worry about sludge build up or the dreaded "pink milkshake".

    No offense, you sound like a worrier. Change the rad and coolant and never give it another thought.

    Rotor? Meh. If they are warped I change them, if not, just new pads.
     
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  10. Jul 1, 2018 at 10:45 PM
    #10
    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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    Try the 4/$100 sensors, if they fail down the road, $100 isn’t enough to cry over and it’s a learning experience for us all. You’ll be right back where you are now.

    Replacement rads are cheap but Champion just came out with an aluminum rad for our 1st gen. More expensive but worth the investment if you tow frequently in hot, hilly areas. If you aren’t experiencing cooling issues, I wouldn’t replace anything, just do a coolant flush. Link for Champion:
    http://www.championradiators.com/Toyota-Tundra-Radiator-2000-2006

    The earlier years (00-03 I believe) had the 13wg calipers which had smaller pistons and heat issues. Toyota upgraded to the 13wl to fix the issue. Check which stamp you have on the calipers.
     
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  11. Jul 2, 2018 at 5:36 AM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    My rotors have been warped since 2004. Just replaced them last week.
     
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  12. Jul 2, 2018 at 11:21 AM
    #12
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    I will have to take a look at that! The newer upgraded ones can be swapped to mine with no major modifications I assume?
     
  13. Jul 2, 2018 at 11:26 AM
    #13
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    XaeroT [OP] likes this.
  14. Jul 2, 2018 at 11:26 AM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Anything can be swapped, but at a cost. Just stick with what you have as they still work. Be more concerned with getting the tune up/fluids and o2 sensor stuff done first.
     
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  15. Jul 2, 2018 at 11:31 AM
    #15
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer 8224

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    What is considered "a great price"?
     
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  16. Jul 2, 2018 at 12:31 PM
    #16
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    Low enough for me to buy it! :bananadance:

    Yea the brakes and rotor thing is just something to keep in mind. Would be addressed when and if it warps. They may be upgraded for all I know. Everything in the wheel was replaced on paper but in late 2002 so may not be upgraded. I need to get to my dads garage (where its at right now) to start having some fun with it over the weekend.
     
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  17. Jul 2, 2018 at 1:15 PM
    #17
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer 8224

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    Excellent, have fun with it.
    Request a general inspection anytime you have it on a shop's lift, and ask if you can check it out while it is on the lift - use a bright flashlight. Prioritize what needs work and you'll be cruising in style before you know it.
     
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  18. Jul 8, 2018 at 8:41 PM
    #18
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    Quick updates.

    It did NOT have a K&N air filter in it. I think it was removed after 60k miles of use thanks to the all caps note "K&N FILTER FOUND" on one of the papers around 160k miles. I replaced what was in it with a NAPA gold air filter. The air box below the filter was the cleanest I have ever seen.

    I cleaned out the MAF sensor and throttle body. The throttle body has never been touched and was black as midnight at flap (front and back). Now its clean as a whistle. I know some particles may of gotten deeper into the engine while I cleaned this up. I think I will have to change out the spark plugs now (any brand suggestions? there are so many...). I really hope the ones in it are not the originals.

    I ran 8oz of Seafoam through the break booster vacuum line (a little at a time) and put 12 oz into the gas (half tank).

    I replaced all 4 O2 sensors. The front ones were easier than the back to replace. I had to buy a special tool to remove one of the back nuts as I stripped it completely round. The sensors on the aftermarket ones are smaller and not as long as the originals.

    The truck feels a little more responsive after this work.
     
  19. Jul 8, 2018 at 8:44 PM
    #19
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    Freshly washed.
     
  20. Jul 8, 2018 at 8:54 PM
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    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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    Denso K20R-U or NGK BKR63YA
     
  21. Jul 9, 2018 at 3:53 AM
    #21
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Good going. With the new plugs and driving out the kinks you are off to a great start. There is a manual section on this site. Think its in ‘General Discussion’. Should help with specs.
     
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  22. Jul 10, 2018 at 12:48 PM
    #22
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    I can't find these plugs at Advanced, Autozone, Napa, or O'Reillys... Unless I am looking wrong or going to the wrong place.
     
  23. Jul 10, 2018 at 12:57 PM
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    Smoofers

    Smoofers New Member

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    That's a great truck. I still miss my '02. Like others said, 225k is nothing.
     
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  24. Jul 10, 2018 at 12:58 PM
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    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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    01erionracing and XaeroT [OP] like this.
  25. Jul 10, 2018 at 1:03 PM
    #25
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    Thanks!

    I may have found the NGK's too? The 3 may actually be an E in the type?

    NGK V-Power Nickel Spark Plug
    Spark Plug BKR6EYA; Nickel; Gap: .032
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/2000/toyota/tundra?brandNameId=NGK+V-Power+Nickel|4446

    Found the NGK here too by the part number (not the BKR number) Part Number: 7990:
    https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/spark-plug/ngk-spark-plug/922732_0_0

    Both prices are better than the 5$ a plug the dealership quoted me. I can't find any Denso local (although the stealership plug is most likely the Denso). I read these trucks could come with NGK or Denso stock? I will buy the NGK today if thats true.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
  26. Jul 10, 2018 at 1:06 PM
    #26
    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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  27. Jul 10, 2018 at 1:30 PM
    #27
    XaeroT

    XaeroT [OP] New Member

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    That has to be a typo. Google is only showing the "E" versions when I do a search. It's only two pages of results too. If I search for "BKR6EYA" I get over 10+ pages and Google shopping results. It's like that NGK plug does not exist or Google search for the first time ever couldn't find it. Is that a Haynes manual or a real Toyota one?

    Edit: Just ordered the Denso's from Amazon. When in doubt pick the one that has a 100% match.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
  28. Jul 10, 2018 at 2:11 PM
    #28
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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  29. Jul 10, 2018 at 8:10 PM
    #29
    VaClutch

    VaClutch New Member

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    I've found that Denso O2 sensors don't like short drives. I had to change the ones on my wife's 06 Rav4 at around 85k miles. That's the garage queen that only takes short trips to school and the grocery store.
     

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