2000 Limited TRD refresh/repair story

I honestly don’t know if OEM parts were used. I’d guess not, but I’ve only driven 400ish miles since. I’d hope that non-OEM parts would last longer than that, but who knows.

That’s one of the reasons I immediately sent it back to the shop. If it was a part failure, they’d be more likely to replace it again for me.

I’ll let you know about the ECU. Hopefully I’ll receive the diagnosis in the next day or two…

 

Part number for the ECU is written clearly on top of its box, so when you get there ...

 

I'd say if the shop determines it is the ECU take it back, pay them for any diagnosis if necessary and find an ECU yourself if you are dead set that its what's causing your issue. Though I'm not sure what else it could be off hand. Haven't heard of this one before. What gears does it do it between? All of them or just one?

 

It does it only on upshifts, and also when shifting from park/neutral to drive/reverse. It does it on the 1-2 shift, the 2-3, but NOT the 3-4. Downshifts are fine. The tech at the shop told me that everything else on the transmission is completely fine, but since the malfunctioning solenoid controls the smoothness of the shifts, it will be incredibly rough. Essentially like having a shift kit.

And you're right, there really aren't very many results when you google it. Like I said earlier, the diagnostic process is super straightforward as well. I don't think it's a common issue.

 

Truck is finally back after 8 days of being in the shop. Free of charge too.

Apparently when the solenoid and internal harness were replaced, the wires on the outside of the transmission to the ECU were not checked, and a wire was damaged just enough to short and fry the internal harness and solenoid. This is what I'm told, I'll do a very thorough check of which wire was repaired, where it was repaired, how well, etc. I'm not sure how the wire got damaged, I wouldn't think it could be a mouse or squirrel, but who knows. Both times it happened, it was very humid and very misty/wet outside, but I'm not sure that would be enough to short two wires, even if they were damaged.

The only transmission shops in my area are swamped right now, so it took them way more time than it should've. I ensured that OEM parts were used too, which is really nice to hear. The transmission/driveline shop that did the work also works with most of the large dealers in the area, so they're familiar with using OEM parts.

It's really nice to be back in the Tundra, it feels like a Rolls Royce compared to my '74 Fiat 124 that I've had to drive around in the rain and snow. Not fun.

 

Was this you on the way to work last week??

 

Pretty much! Although those guys look like they’re having a lot more fun than I was!

 

Huge update time!

Over my winter break I’ve had the chance to get a bunch of stuff done.

Firstly, the truck hit 199,000 miles! So close to 200k!

I started off strong by removing the seats and vacuuming the carpet, getting into every nook and cranny. It was truly gross, but the carpet has never been better!


I’ve also been washing it regularly to keep salt off of the underside. I installed a hose spigot on my house that also has a hot water connection, so I can wash the truck with hot water even when it’s below 32° outside. You have to let the truck sit in the sun for a few hours before and then dry off before it freezes, but it works well. I use a leaf blower to remove the water from the driveway before it becomes a sheet of ice.

You might've also noticed something behind the hood, and that's a transmission cooler block-off plate that I made from an old license plate. A friend of mine has a tool that shows all of the vehicle's parameters while driving, such as coolant temp or oil pressure, and I tried it out. I don't often drive for more than 20 or 25 minutes, and the transmission fluid wasn't warming up, never even getting to 80°! The block off plate solved that issue.

I replaced one of the light bulbs for the instrument cluster that was burnt out. I was hoping to do all of them, because why not, but after breaking the green rubber grommet, I decided to leave the rest alone. I was able to repair the grommet with scotch tape but I didn’t want to take a chance on the others.

I then attempted to adjust the rear brake proportioning valve, and even with a blow torch and PB blaster, the link snapped right in half. I ordered a new link as well as new bushings and installed them once they arrived.


Also, check out the rust on the axle housing. Not good. I’m hoping to do a fluid change once the truck hits 200k, but I’m not sure if that fill plug will ever come off. It’s easily the rustiest part on the truck, and I’m praying that is doesn’t rust through and leak. (the fluid on the housing is penetrating oil, not a leak) I’m trying to think of a way to fill it from the bottom, then replace the plug quick before it drains, but I’m not sure. I also sprayed the axle with Fluid Film shortly after this photo was taken.


It rained for two or three days in a row, and unfortunately, I noticed a leak at the bottom rear corners of the cab. I’ve been hoping for a long time that this wouldn’t happen, but I couldn’t ignore a leak that big.

I pulled apart the rear seat, and found that the water was coming from above. I won’t go too far in depth, as this has been covered numerous times, but I spent the afternoon attempting to resolve the issue. I caulked around the vents, and ran string trimmer line through the rear window gasket and sunroof drains, and pulled it out lots of nasty gunk and dirt. The truck has spent it’s entire life outdoors, and you could really tell.

I strung the line through the channel, then pulled outwards while hitting it with compressed air. Messy but effective!

The sliding window drains were also clogged, and the track/seal was disgusting. I cleaned it all out, and it drains well, but it made the truck smell like a gym bag for the next few days.

I also removed the 3rd brake light lens and there were obvious signs of water ingress. I had never noticed a leak on the headliner, but it was damp inside the housing. The gasket was very dirty and in rough shape, it looked as if it had gotten hot from the lights and deteriorated a bit along the top:


I used a small amount of blue RTV on the gasket and smeared a small amount along the top of the lens, only where it contacts the seal. I was able to make a small and accurate bead by putting some RTV onto my finger, then scraping it onto the edge on the lens. I also put O-rings on the screws to seal those as well, I used O-rings with a 5/32” ID and 9/32” OD, which were just a tad big, but worked fine. Not sure how much that will do, but it cost $4 and will give me some peace of mind.


While I was working on the 3rd brake light, I also replaced the bulbs that had been burnt out for years.


I replaced the passenger side door switch at the same time, as it wasn’t working until you pushed it in very far. My fix was to use a felt pad for a chair leg, which worked fine for a few months, but it started to work intermittently, and it was completely worth it to spend $7 on a new one.


I also received a new clockspring assembly that I’ll be installing soon. An OEM part was not in the budget, but I was able to score a Dorman unit that was on sale. I haven’t installed it yet, I’ll post an update when I do. I’m quite excited to have working cruise control, airbag, and horn.

I’m also looking into replacing the blower motor, as mine squeaks, but if I could fix the current one that would be great. The noise is frustratingly intermittent, and I’d like to replace it, but a new one is $80 and that’s a full take of gas, which goes a long way, both literally and figuratively. (Ha!)

Happy new years!

 

As much as people give Dorman hell, I can tell you GM actually recommends Dorman's intermediate shaft for owners of later 90s GM pickups (GMT400). I was told at the dealership the GM part was made in the same factory, GM discontinued, I guess because Dorman is essentially the same in all aspects, one less thing for GM to manage.

For the squeak, you may just want to pull the blower motor and lube it. Remember, it's been in there running for 15-20 years without being disassembled. You'll want to vacuum out all the debris and other shit that's collected in the evap coil housing anyway if this truck has been outdoors.

Be careful with water inside the cab. You'll want to dry your truck out thoroughly. If you can, park it in a sunny spot for a few hours with the windows barely cracked so it'll heat and steam as much out as you can. You do not want mildew to get roots in anything. It loves to get into seatbelts, soft rubbers, etc. Usually shows up as black dots.

Once mildew sets, it's nearly impossible to get rid of, it'll always be a problem. It roots deep and goes dormant when dry!

 

I pulled the blower motor out, and it spun surprisingly nicely. I couldn't replicate the squeak when spinning it by hand, and the bearings sounded fine. I even plugged it in and turned it on while holding it, but I couldn't get it to squeak. I was hesitant to spray lubricant right into the motor, as I did that once and lit the thing on fire when the brushes sparked. I'll spend some more time on it when it's warmer outside, working in 22° really isn't fun.

And you're right, mold/mildew can really do some damage! I went through that whole debacle when I restored my boat... not good. I made certain to dry up any water that I could find, and I pulled a bunch of water out with a vacuum. The last thing I want is mold!

 

Man, with boats it's that damn red/pink bacteria that are pure hell! Sucks, especially if your boat seats are white vinyl!

 

I'd love to do this. Not any easy way with my house layout though.

I know you just sprayed that with fluid film but clean that axle up and paint it ASAP. I've changed an axle housing due to rust (on another tundra) and it's not much fun and will cost $1000 plus (unless you do a used axle) Clean all the loose rust you can and use POR15 or your favorite paint over rust based product. If you decide to change the oil (I would) you can get new drain and fill plugs as well as the washer/gasket for each plug. 24mm is the socket size for that.

Regarding the rear water leak hopefully what you did got that lined out. I thought mine was my 3rd brake light to cab seal and I replaced without any luck. You can still buy the whole 3rd brake light assembly if need be as far as I know. Need to clean out my window gaskets like you did but I have a topper on now and my leak isn't too bad and I have my carpet pulled out of the way so nothing gets gross back there.

 

The hose spigot was worth every penny, I would totally recommend. It's great for washing the dog, as well as muddy boots. I have plumbing experience so it wasn't too bad, the hardest part by far was tapping into an existing hot water pipe. It even helps when washing in the summer, warm water works much better than cold.

Painting the axle housing with POR15 is on the list for the springtime, I'm hoping it'll hold on until then. The rear of the pumpkin must be very thin. I can pull it apart with my fingernails and it's some serious rust. I think that if I tried to get a socket onto the fill plug, the whole rear part would break off. The drain plug, along with the rest of the housing, looks just fine. It's curious to me how the rest can be pretty rust free and that one spot be so bad.

Does anyone know if the vent can be removed from the top? Like, what if I were to fill the diff with fluid from the vent hole?

 

Yeah when I wash my Corvette I fill up the wash bucket with water from the upstairs bathtub just for hot water. Not fun.

I'm assuming your truck had frame replacement right? That would explain the housing rusting so much.

You can absolutely fill from the vent hole but then you'll never know for sure that it's full.

 

Yup, frame replacement in 2016ish. I don't remember exactly when, but we had no idea it was so rusty from above.

For the diff, I can always measure how much fluid comes out, and put the same amount back in. It's been upwards of 10 years since it's been changed, but it hasn't leaked a drop.

 

If you go that route I would absolutely either replace the breather (probably good to do even if you don't go that route) or do the relocation mod to keep from ever having to worry about water getting in there.

 

I forgot that was a mod that you can do! Easy, inexpensive, effective, sounds like my kinda job! I'll definitely do that when I change the fluid.

 

Great update... keep em coming!

 

Another small update…

The original key fob hadn’t been used for upwards of ten years for a multitude of reasons. The keychain broke off, the case split apart, the battery contacts corroded, the list goes on.

I decided to spend a few hours and fix it, and it now works great. I disassembled it, cleaned it all up, and glued it back together with plastic model glue. Worked great.

Here’s what it looked like before:


And after:


It isn’t pretty, but it works great. I only need to find a way to attach it to a keychain. I know there are 3D printed ones available online, but they look huge. I really try to keep my keychains as small as I can, and the stock fob would double the amount of space my keys take up in my pocket. I might just end up buying a new shell, my only worry is that it might be flimsy and break.

On a better note, I found the source of my coolant leak. It has been leaking pretty slowly, about a drip every day or so. I’ve looked for the source of the leak plenty of times, but I couldn’t see anything without taking the skidplate off.

I took the skidplate off, and turns out that the drain plug on the radiator was barely finger tight! I couldn’t believe it wasn’t leaking more.

 

Just buy a new case for it. Or buy a used fob on fleaBay and swap the guts over. Easy peasy.

Your remote suggests you have the RS3000 TVIP system. Programming isn't as easy as the '03+ trucks using the RS3200 TVIP systems. If you were to buy a replacement, here's the programming instructions.

I swore someone made 'indestructible cases' for these to swap your guts into, but that may only be for the RS3200 fobs like my '06 uses. Can't remember.

 

Just a heads up they sell those online for pretty cheap. I replaced mine. All you have to do is move the brains over to the new housing. 5 minute job (1 beer).

 

This company offers them: https://www.yotamd.com/products/toyota-2-button-trapezoid

My only issue with these is that they look huge. And they're pricey. Not entirely in the budget right now... I'm saving up for paint supplies. (big things coming!)

 

Is this more in the budget?

$7 Shell Case Key Fob Remote fits Toyota RS3000 BAB237131-022 Grey

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V951R5/

 

Had a YotaMD one for my Landcruiser. It was badass! From what I remember it was the kind that is built into the physical key and the OEM ones had a reputation of snapping and causing all kinds of hell. The YotaMD one is BIFL and tacticool certified

 

Those are cool as hell. I had no idea they existed. Price is a little high but may be worth it. Gonna ponder on it for a bit.

I will say that the cheap aftermarket remote cases aren't great. They don't clip together at the top. So they are always splitting up there. Though they do hold together enough to not fall apart. It does seem like it would be better than what you are dealing with currently.

 

That's what my concern was. I've looked at a couple, but my worry was that it would break pretty quickly. I beat the hell out of my stuff, whether it's keys, a knife, my phone, shoes, etc. I need to be able to toss the keys onto the counter and not worry about the thing coming apart.

I might try making a leather case for my current fob. I quite like the way pressed leather cases look, and it would be protective as well. I've never done any leatherworking, but from what I've seen online it looks to be fairly easy, and might be a nice project. It would also make me happy to use something I've made myself every day.

I'll post updates on what I decide, but like I said, big things are coming soon, so it might get put on the back burner for a bit.

 

So, I replaced the clockspring today but it was only a partial success.

The clockspring broke years ago, but my grandpa didn’t want to pay to have a new one installed, so it’s been broken for a long time. No horn, and no cruise either.

I installed the new one today, but in the process found that the wires for the cruise control and horn ground were cut. Maybe a mechanic was probing them to test the clockspring? I’m not sure.


I repaired the wires, and put it all back together just to find that the airbag light is still there. Before, it would blink maybe 8 or 10 times, and then stay constant. Now, it won’t stop blinking.

The cruise control now works, and I’m pretty sure the horn would work if the one in the engine bay wasn’t broken. When I press on the steering wheel, I can hear the relay click.

I’m not sure what to do next. I was really really hoping to fix the airbag. Thoughts?

 

Unhook the battery and try and let the airbag module reset? If you were closer I'd be happy to let you use my code reader with airbag code scan just to see what comes up. Odd to see it just blink constantly. Seems like on "newer" vehicles it's either on or off but I'm not for sure.

 

I tried to read the code(s) using the jumper-wire method described in the FSM:

(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait for approx. 20 seconds.

(2) Using SST, connect terminals Tc and CG of the DLC3.

But to no avail. It just kept blinking at the same pace, about two seconds on, one second off.

 

Any chance the airbag connector didn't seat fully? Airbag connectors are usually a fail safe style that has a couple ways of clicking in.