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2000-2006 Tundra big brake upgrade kit (14WA calipers)

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by googlydoodle, Jan 30, 2020.

  1. Mar 31, 2021 at 10:19 PM
    #211
    ToyoLife

    ToyoLife New Member

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    What year Tundra do you have? AC or DC? Thanks for reporting back. I'm still on the fence.
     
  2. Apr 1, 2021 at 5:11 AM
    #212
    Kcrusher62

    Kcrusher62 New Member

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    I have 05 AC 4 wd with 177k on the clock. I posted some pics [ well my daughter did lol] on the softtopper thread. Was also on the fence.
    I hated that feel of shit I hope this truck is going to stop in time, after a few of those it got me off the fence. As I said there is a big difference, very happy I did it.
     
  3. Apr 1, 2021 at 5:23 AM
    #213
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Gotta ask. At any point in time when you press your brakes does it feel ‘scary’ and then the brakes finally catch?

    Stoked on your success!
     
    RustyShackle323 likes this.
  4. Apr 1, 2021 at 10:41 AM
    #214
    Kcrusher62

    Kcrusher62 New Member

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    Never had that feeling, brakes catch as soon as pressure on pedal. Truck just feels safer now.Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing the change.
     
  5. Apr 1, 2021 at 10:55 AM
    #215
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Nice. Any feedback from mechanic on condition of old Calipers? Seized/frozen pistons etc?
     
  6. Apr 1, 2021 at 11:37 AM
    #216
    Kcrusher62

    Kcrusher62 New Member

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    Negative, nothing mentioned only on how all new parts bolted right up and the 3.5 mm milling on calipers where dead on
     
  7. Apr 6, 2021 at 7:30 AM
    #217
    JohninHunt

    JohninHunt New Member

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    none.....yet
    I have just completed an upgrade of brake components on my 04 DC and wanted to post some notes. The truck has 201,000 miles and the brakes seemed weak and pulled right when applied. I've owned the truck 2 months.
    The rear brakes were not functioning at all due to rust issues. Backing plates were rusted thru and shoes were barely worn but not functional due to rusting of all brake parts and lack of adjustment. The entire rear brake assembly was replaced along with new rear bearings. The drums were cleaned, painted and reused as they had very little mechanical wear. I was surprised that the truck stopped as well as it did considering the rears were not helping at all.

    Front brakes were stripped off while I replaced lower ball joints, shocks, springs, and tie rod ends. I actually found a very small leak in the passenger side steel brake line above the frame. The 2 way junction which mounts to the frame top and all lines to the calipers were replaced and included stainless hoses.

    I sourced 14WA calipers from Ebay which were nicely plated silver and cost about $50 bucks each. I milled 150 thousandths off the mounting ears and painted the bare steel where I machined away the plating. Matching rotors were also bought, degreased and painted black on non functioning areas.

    When mounting the new calipers, I noticed that the mounting bolts were not fully seated even after being torqued down. The caliper had slight play in the mount so they were removed and parts inspected to determine the problem. The threaded holes where the calipers mount were either rusted at the end of the hole or were never completely tapped thru from the factory. I ground down the first four threads of the caliper mounting bolts which allowed the bolts to seat properly.

    After mounting all new brake parts, I spent a half day purging air from the brake lines but could not get a firm pedal. I tried to adjust the rear pad clearance with no success so pulled the drums off and adjusted the pads for a tighter fit. Reassembled the rear brakes and did a 4th round of bleeding which resulted in a long pedal throw but functioning brakes. After adjusting the rear pads even a bit tighter, I had a slightly spongy pedal but good braking.

    I let the brakes sit one day, (which sometimes helps the small bubbles migrate) and bled once more with slight improvement. Then I took the truck on my gravel driveway and did a series of crash stops from 25 to 30 mph to activate/purge the ABS module. I could hear the ABS working on these sliding stops.
    One more round of bleeding and SUCCESS! A very firm pedal and great stopping on pavement.

    I cannot compare my current brake efficiency with previous due to the poor condition of the system, but must say that the brakes now function as well as my 2012 F250 and even better than my 05 Titan brakes.
     
  8. Apr 6, 2021 at 7:38 AM
    #218
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    @JohninHunt thanks for sharing all that. Just to clarify, do you still have long pedal travel or was that also solved after the last round of bleeding? The more I read on this the more I think air is the common issue here. I'm thinking about buying a reverse brake bleeder to try.
     
  9. Apr 6, 2021 at 8:15 AM
    #219
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty Desert rat

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    SoAz
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    This kit worked really good, super simple to use
    https://www.speedibleed.com/k800b-toyota-lexus-brake-bleeder-kit.html
     
    Darkness likes this.
  10. Apr 6, 2021 at 8:18 AM
    #220
    JohninHunt

    JohninHunt New Member

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    FGV, The pedal travel is about 4". I believe air in the system causes a "squishy" pedal along with longer throw. Correct adjustment of the rear pads is critical for a short pedal stroke.
    In the old days we used to adjust the pads until they would completely stop wheel movement then back off the star wheel about 1 rotation. This helped eliminate slack in the assembly and may be a useful method of adjustment even today.
    Removal of air trapped in the ABS and the very serpentine lines, especially in the RF brake line is also key.
     
    FirstGenVol likes this.
  11. Apr 6, 2021 at 8:43 AM
    #221
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    That does look nice. I'm tempted to try something outside the box though. I had the guys at the shop pressure bleed my system. They are either idiots, or just couldn't get all the air out.
    Empty Lord was the one that said he likes to reverse bleed. The thought being that air naturally wants to go up, not down.

    This company(Phoenix) claims it's the only way to really bleed ABS without a scan tool. "Patented Reverse Bleeding removes more trapped air than any other brake bleeder by simply pushing Brake Fluid fluid from the bottom up. Reverse bleeding is the only method capable of bleeding tough ABS units without a scan tool."
     
    Tacopashka and speedtre like this.
  12. Apr 6, 2021 at 8:51 AM
    #222
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    It's really dark
    I wonder if Australians have an easier time bleeding brakes since they live upside-down.
    :rimshot::rofl:
     
  13. Apr 6, 2021 at 10:10 AM
    #223
    JohninHunt

    JohninHunt New Member

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    I agree with the reverse bleed method. Those bubbles do want to rise naturally so don't fight it!
     
    speedtre likes this.
  14. Apr 6, 2021 at 3:19 PM
    #224
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I’m no scientist, but the Bosch Fluido Suprémõ is low viscosity and is less prone to bubbles thus bleeds faster and more efficiently. *Disclaimer* I slept at Motel 8 last night.
     
    Thrussn likes this.
  15. Apr 6, 2021 at 3:24 PM
    #225
    BubbaW

    BubbaW FAA Tweaker

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    GO VOLS
    They sure don't have to worry about their windows when rolling up because down is up....well anyway :stirthepot:
    :benchpress:
     
    Darkness likes this.

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