2000-2006 Tundra big brake upgrade kit (14WA calipers)

BTW, Rock Auto accepted my 13WE calipers as core returns. Here is a breakdown of what this job has cost me so far. I was going to need new pads and rotors either way so one could argue that's a requirement no matter which brake upgrade you choose. The pads I pulled off were almost gone. Even if I have to replace the MC (it sounds like it was on it's way out anyways) that's only gonna bring me up to $615-700. After the core refund the calipers only cost $110.

 

Based on the description in the picture I'd say that's a clutch master cylinder, not a brake master cylinder.

 

That's what it seems. Based on what I'm finding the master has in fact been discontinued but a few places still claim to be able to order them. They are not cheap.

I'm considering trying the $35 rebuild kit that @speedtre mentioned. There really isn't much to it.

 

Definitely worth a shot. I used to own a 97 Honda that the pedal would sink/feel mushy like you've described. An aftermarket replacement from Rock Auto got the pedal nice and firm again. I hope the rebuild kit does the trick! Don't forget to bench bleed it!

 

I would try the rebuild kit...if that doesn't work I'd try the T100 MC....it's not that expensive.

 

Okay...

But I've used them and I know how they work. I don't know how the other person has used theirs and how well those work. There are certain parts I'm willing to buy used but they don't affect how the truck stops or turns. The only exception to that is a good set of used wheels and those can be check for bends or cracks.

Again, I understand the budget issue but given a new (or even rebuilt) part like this lasts years or decades I think the investment is worth it for my safety, especially if I'm towing 5,500 lbs.

 

I understand the sentiment. Have you've ever bought a used truck, would you tow with it? Its made from used parts.

I'm not saying buy a crappy used part, aybe if you live in the rust belt its a bad idea. Inspect the part and be sure its in good condition. I wouldn't buy used wearable items like pads, but a master cylinder or caliper for sure. The only reason I don't with my truck is there aren't many Tundras in pick a part near me.

Around 2004 my brothers beloved Honda CR-X was stolen and completely stripped. They even took the carpet, it was unbelievable. We rebuilt it completely from parts at pick a part, even the motor. Those parts were all genuine Honda and the car lived happily ever after. The next year we dropped a turbo in that car and it runs like hell, probably low 12 second quarter miles.

 

I’d be open to a MC Rebuild just because. Also, I’d even consider the T100 MC instead just because. This would be on WL13 Remanufactured Calipers.

If the Cylinder Pressure is better on the rebuild or upgrade T100 MC, will it make the truck brake better compared to the OEM MC equipment?

Basically, instead of going bigger brakes calipers one would instead be optimizing the MC and/or Booster to maximize pressure at the existing brake calipers (regardless of size).

 

My WE13 Calipers were seized on the inboards pistons. I can only imagine a caliper thats been sitting on an unused truck for a year or two without having pressure working the Mojo every so often. I’ve heard of Calipers seizing after a week of no use sitting in the driveway.

 

Rebuild kits are cheap and these brakes can be found on 2020 models, I bet those are in better shape than my 2 year old reman calipers.

 

My junkyard WE calipers have been on my sequoia for 4 months now and work great. I understand your concern, but decent junkyard test things. Before I got them the guy checked the pistons to make sure they were in good shape.

 

It isn't for everybody, but neither is removing Toyota designed brake system and molesting another Toyota designed brake system to fit on our trucks. Then again, Tacoma guys do it with our calipers too.

 

No. The overall braking ability is determined by the pads/rotors/tires. The size of pistons vs the master determines how much effort it takes you to apply the aforementioned parts.

Going to a larger master will stiffen the pedal but not increase your braking capabilities.

But will increase your leg gains lol.

 

Been away for a while, but someone asked if I ever solved the mushy pedal.. So a recap:

2005 Sequoia stock 13WL brakes with new OEM rotors/pads... Crappy brakes. Mushy, scary. Bled brakes a dozen times to no avail (no exaggeration).

Upgraded to 14WA with Brembo rotors and Hawk LTS pads... Vastly improved braking power. They are easily able to lock up and skid 285 BFG tires. Brake pedal still mushy, but not scary to drive. Bled brakes at least 6 times all around, properly. No avail.

Installed brand new master cylinder from O Reilly. One of their better brands, forgot the name... Brake pedal feel improved. Still mushy, but half as mushy as before therefore an improvement... I no longer have any complaints about my brakes.

If the Sequoia didn't have ABS, I would have swapped and tried the T-100 MC.

 

Just an FYI, there is a T100 MC that is ABS compatible...ABS was optional on T100s.

 

I saw that but the position of ABS hardlines didn't line up among another difference. Just didn't want to complicate things.

The bore on the T-100 MC is definitely larger though... Some of you non ABS guys need to try this mod.

 

I wonder if there is a way to bore our original Master Cylinder and use some larger rubber plungers inside?

In effect, you’d be going from 13/16” up to a 1” Bore keeping all other things the same.

Sounds risky and impossible without precision tools.

 

I have a 2006 DC with 4WD with ABS. I purchased all new OEM parts from OEMPartssource.com (calipers, pads and rotors) and new steel braided brake lines from Crown. With machining and postage I am in for 776.27.
I went the extra step and tried to purchase a used T100 brake booster ($94) and master cylinder ($57) from a 1998 T100 with ABS on Ebay. I later found out that there are two separate part numbers for the brake boosters 44610-34010 (2WD) and 44610-34020 (4WD) both unavailable new and I really don't know what the difference is? MC part numbers were the same for 2WD an 4WD. If you are looking for a quick and convenient bolt on similar to what works on earlier first gen Tundra's without ABS, think again. This was beyond my skill set. Included are pictures of the T100 BB and MC (with ABS). If someone can provide some simple logic and instructions on how to make this an easy application please let me know.

 

You will find some good info here...

 

Reading through this entire thread, I have not seen any mention of the SOS performance upgrade for the MC. Has anyone tried this?

https://sosperformance.com/products...er-installation-kit-fits-rear-disc-conversion

 

Speedtre. Thank you for the link. I had read that a few weeks ago. I might be missing something but this seems to be for non-ABS applications.

 

@TundraDCCO you unfortunately have the bastardly over complicated 2006 master cylinder. I believe those come on some 05 and 06 double cab models, possibly other models of the same years.

03 access cab with abs, I replaced the booster and mc last year but did not try the T100. Note how mine doesn't have that extra manifold between booster and cylinder.

 

Isn't that the setup for VSC equipped trucks....? If so, I expect that throws a whole other variable in there for all this....

 

It does have the VSC setup.
I think I will see how the truck does with just the brake upgrade and see how the pedal responds. If too squishy, I may look to other BB/MC options.

Geoffrey Beers (FB Tundra 1st Gen Page) was kind enough to suggest a work around and provide the following image: "
"So if I remember correctly. Your factory style master cylinder is what’s called a quick take up valve. It means it has a larger bore piston that is meant for the rear that quickly engages the rear brakes. It’s a drum brake thing.
The other thing I think you have is a three port master cylinder.
The two front ports are for the front and rear brakes. The 3rd port near the brake booster is most likely a brake fluid return from the LSPV valve.
I Believe all you need to do is cap off that return LSPV return and convert to a manual prop valve for the rear."

 

Thanks Darkness for showing me AC with ABS application. That looks like a much simpler and cleaner install.

 

Yup, and its ungodly expensive and hard to find when a replacement is needed.

 

What about this MC merits an "upgrade"? Looks interesting but I need specs. Bigger bore? If one can confirm, I'd buy that and try it but my brakes are fine at this point.

I apologize for the lazy response, but I have exhausted myself looking for answers in regard to the ABS T-100 swap... Basically, if you've got a newer tuck with ABS... You're SOL unless you are a master tech who can fab something up.. There's no plug and play.

I spent a couple hours for a few nights referencing photo after photo, spec after spec. Everything from bore size, brake booster mounting points, resevoir plugs, ABS hardlines.. If one or two things line up, something else doesn't. I don't ever want to go through that again... Maybe one day when I'm bored and my OCD kicks in randomly.

My truck is a 2005 Sequoia with ABS, VSC, and all that mumbo jumbo.

 

that MC is more suited for 4 wheel disc brakes. the balance may be pretty off for a truck running larger front brakes and the stock rear drums

 

I really don't see the T100 swap being that realistic for me. I read that Tundra Solutions link multiple times and never got a clear answer as to how I would do it.

 

Does anyone who has done this conversion have the part number for the 14wa calipers, my research and checking with toyota parts keeps leading me to the 14wb calipers, after reading up on the 14wb they do not work for this conversion? help plz