2000-2006 Tundra big brake upgrade kit (14WA calipers)

I have found that sourcing the calipers myself was not profitable. So now I offer the machining services only. Since there is a wide variety of calipers you can choose from the customer can pick their caliper of choice.

I do recommend getting the zinc coated (anti corrosive plating) calipers. Raybestos, AC Delco and R1 concepts have been my preferred aftermarket brands. You can purchase OEM calipers as well. 2015-2020 Toyota 4runners are identical to the 2010-2015 Lexus GX460 calipers. Also i have found that the newer 2016-2020 Lexus GX 460 14WB calipers have the exact same measurements and fit the same way as the 14WA calipers. The machining process is unchanged.

I recommend converting to stainless steel braided brake lines front and rear to help with pedal feel. I usually have my customers contact Crownperformance and go with the low profile banjo bolt conversion kit. You must ask for this kit as it is not available on their website. Give them a call and they can source the kit for you.

Also, pertaining to the pedal feel, I have over 20,000 miles with the GX460 brakes and I have towed 5,000 lbs with a packed full bed with camping gear and have driven several 100's of miles with this setup and i have yet ran out of pedal. This includes emergency stops going downhill on several occasions. I have sold about 30 sets of these calipers so far and all of which are still on factory master cylinder and booster. Take note to be sure the rear drum brake shoes are adjusted properly and that the LSPV is adjusted properly as well. Or convert to a manual prop valve.

If you would like to request my services you can still reach me at my cell 385-212-1889. Feel free to call or text. If i do not answer give me a call or text the next day. My phone is usually being blown up with people requesting Toyota services and sometimes I do not have the time to answer everyone at once.

Im glad you guys have found this setup to be useful. In my honest opinion, this is how the brakes should have been from the factory. The stopping power is amazing and you'll be surprised at how well they do.

 

Welcome back. I recently did the swap. Raybestos calipers and rotors with Toyota pads. The truck stops wonderfully but the pedal travel is pretty bad. It has so much slack that I've actually had to adjust my seat forward. During a hard stop the pedal is essentially on the floor. I personally don't believe the steel braided lines made a difference but I have those too. So, I'm happy that the truck can stop quicker than it did before but the mushy pedal is something I'm having to live with. I've adjusted my rear drums to the point that they were too tight. I've adjusted the LSPV all the way up and all the way down and I can't tell any difference. I'm not sure I have any tricks left to try but just wanted to share my experience in case you had any thoughts.

 

Did you ever replace the stock master cylinder to see if the seals were damaged inside?

 

I upgraded my ‘02 sequoia brakes to the ‘06 setup, 13WL I believe. The improvement was drastic but it’s still horrible compared to my ‘16 tundra. Im thinking that this 14WA/14WB upgrade may be a good idea. Seems like a worthwhile upgrade?

 

$1500 worth?

 

$180 worth..

I think people forget they can find used wrecked gx460s and 4runners to pull everything from..I found my low mileage brakes on a gx460 with almost brand new pads. Didn't even have to resurface the calipers. Tossed everything on and works great. I understand this won't work for everyone but that $1500 won't be the case either if you shop for it.

 

I’m talking about the entire enchilada to do it the right way so that the pedal isn’t spongy per Erik or that when one ‘presses the pedal and nothing happens and then all of the sudden the brakes kick in’ which if I recall correctly was your description of your new brake experience. Not busting balls here, but that description doesn’t make me feel good when it comes to braking. Neither does pushing the pedal all the way to the floor to the point of having to move the seat forward.

Adding up all the new proper parts you’ll be at $1500 plus mucho work which is probably worth it for some of us.

 

My report was, the pedal felt the same as before but brakes better. I would get that scared feeling, same as before when having to brake hard but these brakes actually work. Again, I only spent $180 for a world of difference coming from the 13we brakes. I didn't use the steel lines (yet, I still have them and will add them eventually). I didn't upgrade anything else. Just bought used brakes (calipers/rotors/pads) for $80, machined them for $80 and spent a few bucks on paint so I guess it wasn't even $180 come to think of it. I think it's definitely worth it coming from 13we. If I had 13wl, I doubt I would try the upgrade because the difference doesn't SEEM as dramatic on paper. I don't think Erik's experience is the norm (pedal getting worse) but maybe I'm wrong. Just want to make sure misinformation isn't spreading to the point of deterring people because one person's experience wasn't a good one. Mine was a great experience overall. Having a couple of thousand miles on the truck since I trust the truck way more in the stopping arena and have no regrets (especially with all the added weight which has to be close to 500-800lbs)

 

I've also pointed out a few times that you and others haven't ended up with the mushy pedal. I had 3-4 people reply on my instagram page saying they had no complaints but most of them have double cabs with the better master cylinder. Only one other person in this thread had the same issue as me but he hasn't reported back yet saying if he ever fixed it.

I'm also not sure how one is coming up with $1,500. Even if you chose to replace the booster and MC, it's not likely going to be that much. Apparently Toyota has discontinued both parts for the T100 according to Cool Springs website.

 

Not yet. The consensus from our Toyota tech is that my MC is most likely fine. I may try to replace it eventually. Were you the one that was saying I could unbolt the MC from the booster to see if it's leaking? If I do that, will I have to rebleed the system?

 

I fear this is where I’m at.

 

On 2nd thought i may just live with the 13WL that i have. Sequoias come stock with rear discs as well, and i just changed the pads and rotors last week. Its not great but if i stomp on the brakes, it stops. Just not on a dime.

 

Possibly. If you can unbolt the master from the booster and slide it forward to see the bore/opening of both master & booster.

No lines are disconnected so no need to bleed anything. You just might need to unclip the lines for a little more forward play.

 

What pads did you go with? My 01 Sequoia stops great and I have the WE calipers. I used centric semi metallic pads

 

I converted the front to 13WL and went with OEM pads, and standard brembo rotors (they were cheap). The rears are plain jane oreilly brand. I had to change it in a pinch, couldnt wait for anything fancy in the rear.

dont get me wrong, it stops well. But it doesnt stop anything like my 2016 tundra

 

It's well known that black Tundras are the fastest, it's little known that they also stop the fastest.

 

Smart move based on what I’ve read. I’ll spend some time doing the math again and lay it out as if I was going to do the Full Enchilada Mamba Upgrade. I remember it being in the $1500 for all new components. I would not risk putting used junkyard calipers on my truck.

Lets make a list. Only thing I forget is which Lexus Vehicle these larger brakes are derived:

All Brand New Components Costs:

1) 2 Calipers

2) 2 Rotors

3) New Brake Shoes

4) New Master Cylinder

5) Double Diaphragm Booster

6) Brake Fluid/Errata

7) Cleaning Supplies

8) Milling Cost (hard for some to find a shop that will do it)

 

Quick Search on the Lexus site for the 2013 Lexus460:

All Brand New Components Costs:

1) 2 Calipers $340

2) 2 Rotors $160

3) New Brake Pads $130

4) New Master Cylinder $890

5) Double Diaphragm Booster (included with above cylinder)

6) Brake Fluid Supremõ/Errata ($15)

7) Cleaning Supplies ($15)

8) Milling Cost (hard for some to find a shop that will do it) ($100?)

Total Cost $1650. Unsure of the exact DD Booster and Master Cylinder, but I think its in the ballpark.

Anyone: Do your own price search and show me the exact parts and the costs and show me otherwise please.

So far we have 3 members with these brakes. One says ‘scared’ feeling, one says ‘mushy pedal to floor’ and ‘moves seat up’ to stomp the stop, and another thats AWOL on the matter.

The g-off guy doesn’t seem to answer the latest questions posed to him. He is ‘busy’. He did say earlier this year, before anyone here tried these, that the DD Booster/Cylinder is a requirement to work right. He has revised a bit since and says mostly its not a requirement, but if they are spongy that it is a requirement.

I’ll assume its a requirement to Go Full Enchillada or not at all because otherwise its a big risk. Again, not busting balls here. I want solid brakes if I am going to take a risk.

 

Sure if you want to go expensive it can be $1650.

I just spotted a used T100 master cylinder and brake booster for $50

EBC rotors and pads can be had for $225 shipped

Brake calipers from Raybestos $100 each, or I saw some blingbling powder coated red powerstop brand for $290 a pair.

Add a bottle of brake fluid and a can of brake kleen and you're under $500 for parts, add +/- $120 for the millwork.

 

I understand budgets, but I'm not sure I'd buy a used master cylinder. My life is worth a bit more than that.

 

So your used list is about $720+/- which will save about half in new parts.

Let me under bid you. All of those parts I mentioned in my detailed list I can get used for $300! Thats right. $1650 in parts for under $300. I’ll save money on brake fluid by reconstituting last years used DOT3.

My above list is all new stuff. Safe and efficient if the job isn’t mangled. C’mon man!

 

People get scared of used parts but here is the truth- the brakes on your truck today are used and work fine.

 

I know you can order torsion axles with brakes from dexter directly. There are a lot of states that require trailer brakes for anything over 3k pounds.

Some items of note from the manual:

We recommend you use a weight distribution hitch when towing p388

If towing a trailer over 2000 lb it is necessary to use a sway control device p389

If the total trailer weight exceeds 1000 lb., trailer brakes are required p394

 

I priced all new reputable parts from RockAuto = About $550 + $120 for the milling (if you send them to Utah and don't get it done local cheaper) + the cost of fluids. So I'd say even with all new reputable parts you around $700. I'm a believer in OEM for certain parts (LBJs anyone?) but other parts, like suspension and brake components, can be just as good as (sometimes better than) OEM at significantly less cost.

 

I’m honestly wondering if your master is just worn out. It’s possible.

 

If it's original I might even opt for probable...

@FirstGenVol if you don't want to upgrade the master cylinder yet I think Toyota sells a rebuild kit for them for like $50 or less....

 

I've been considering it off and on. Would anyone be comfortable with an aftermarket MC? I was eyeing the Raybestos replacement for $88 vs $225 for OEM.

Actually, as I was typing that I checked Cool Springs again. They list 2 part numbers for the MC, one says discontinued and the other says it's only $117... I'm not sure what to make of that. That bottom part must be something different right?