1st oil change- AmsOil???

Correct
You don’t need to prove anything

I think the formal amsoil sales person who posted above said it best.

 

Pretty good oil war thread so far...

Continue, please.

 

Main thing to consider concerning oil changes is what type of driving has been done.

Highway driving is easier on the engine.

City driving is harsher on the engine.

Heavy Service is considered:
1) City driving
2) Short trips
3) Towing/Hauling

Regardless of your ‘Brand’ one should change oil at 3k for city (see heavy service) and 5k highway. Its more important to have quicker/fresher changes with ‘ Regular Formula’ than extended changes with ‘Super Formula’.

Synthetic is so cheap right now and if you DIY you can save huge. Oil changes are cheap insurance.

 

I like oil wars.....very messy........

 

Thoughts? Oh geez not another oil thread.......here we go again...

 

Amsoil is good stuff, I used it for several years but grew tired of ordering online and paying a premium. I use M1 from Walmart, oem filter and change every 5k now.
It’s funny about oil change intervals. 07-09 5.7 Tundras under normal use recommend 5k then in 2010 it changed to 10k!?

 

Unlike anecdotal observations actual empirical data results even better.............

 

Lol true but, can you ever find a test result NOT sponsored by an oil company? I'm sure one brand is probably better than another but which one and how much better? That data is not out there. Amsoil might be better but if it is a half a percent? Or maybe all these are good for 20K or 25K? Who knows lol.

 

@Ericsopa 's Blackstone Lab data results are posted here. Results were very interesting. 23K and according to Blackstone he should shoot for 25K. It costs only $28 I think to get test data. Anyone can do it if they want their own report. I find it to be worth while instead of relying solely on mfr data like you said.

 

Thing is, all of the major brand synthetics have shown exceptional UOA results from 10,000 to 15,000 miles at BITOG. So, to say that one is better than the other really is too general of a statement. I have used Amsoil, Mobil 1, Quaker State, Pennzoil, and Havoline. All did outstanding in various vehicles from 5,000 and 10,000 mile oil change intervals. All of this considered, why not just go for the cheapest option? They all perform just as well.

Amsoil is expensive, even with a membership, that is why I don't use it anymore. I can drive by Walmart and get Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum, or Quaker State Ultimate Durability all for less money and get the same results I got with Amsoil---the UOA's prove it.

 

If I had a million I was doing nothing with I would buy several engines, run different oils and test them in a lab for 100K. Then tear them apart to see and finally make the data public. Pretty sure though the engines wouldn't be much different as long as the OCI was followed exactly.

 

I have used Amsoil mostly in my all my two strokes and four wheelers and love there grease when I remember to buy it. As for engine oil I have used it but it is expensive and belive using a good quality air filter and frequent oil changes will prolong your motor in the long run. Amsoil head quarters are a stone skip away and I have enjoyed using their products since the late 70s with no complaints.

 

first I believe Toyota pays for the changes for 24000 miles or 2 years so why waste your money?
second although no longer on an emblem my 2017 4x4 has the E85 engine just like my 2010 (check the serial #) it doesn't call for synthetic with 10000 mile changes just regular 0-20 at 5000 (look at the fill cap or owner manual)so again why waste your money.

 

I got the Amsoil OE for $7.75 a qt. The Signature series is $13 I think. I don't put over 10K a year. Usually around 8K. I'm shooting for 1 change per year so costs will go down. I'm going to get the Blackstone Lab test after 1 year and see what the oil condition is. Can't hurt...

 

I like the multi-purpose grease and marine grease. In the past i found their syn grease did not separate like other manufacturer syn grease when stored and it always seemed a bit tackier when applied, which i like. I like their new approach on gear lubes too, in a squeeze pouch, super easy to fill diff.

 

I like that squeeze pouch idea. Really like that.

 

In recent years all Toys come with syn oil from factory, even with the close mfg tolerances I would still change oil first at 2-3k to clean up mfg metal fragments from new engine second at 5k then every 5k. My Tundra was born 2002 and came with organic oil, I changed every 3k with toy oil for 4 changes and went synthetic when the valves set at 10k changed to mobil1 up to the present now at 251k. Enjoy your tundra!

 

If I didn't have a heated garage I would have Amsoil in the drivetrain for the 16, on my 1984 Toyota truck I used to drive a few miles in low range till the oil warmed up a bit, eventually I put Amsoil the drivetrain and was night and day diff at -30.

 

What's our stance on Victor Sheppards million mile 4.7L with traditional dealership purchased Mobil synthetic oil?
His stance is.. It worked for me. He even had extended drain intervals close to 10k! I think it mathed out to like 8800..

Point is nobody here statistically is going to put that many miles or "cycles" on their engine. Most of this chatter is feel good, sugar pill, internet chatter that's been discussed ad nauseam.

Follow the engineering spec. Replace with quality Denso/OE parts, follow the service rotation thoroughly and carefully.

Just like aircraft maintenance. .

No extra points for earliest drain intervals .. Lol
________________

"Examining the parts in person is quite amazing. There is very little carbon buildup on the valve stems, the cross hatching is still visible on the cylinder walls, and the crankshaft journals have no visible wear marks. The only thing they found was one slight mark on a bearing.
“We remeasured the head, the block, and cams in our lab,” said Connie Roberts, Toyota quality manager. “Nothing was abnormal. It wasn’t within specifications, but after a million miles it isn’t going to be. The biggest surprise to me was the bearings. They are probably the cleanest I’ve ever seen come out of an engine.”
________________

Now where was that LED headlight link... Muhahahah

 

Everybody has their own go to brand. I use http://www.walmart.com/ip/6-Pack-Pe...5W-30-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt/408239852 in all my vehicles to make things easier.

 

I really like the Ultra Penz as well. If you watch for rebates you can get it down to $10-13 per 5 qt jug. I stock up at that point and then go through it in about a year with 3 vehicles. Unfortunately the Tundra calls for 0w20 so not part of my 5w30 stock, but free changes for 2 years so no worries until then.

 

According to the CarFax report the previous owner took it to the dealer for routine services so whatever the dealer bought in 55 gallon drums.

 

They sell 0w20 same price. IMO the truck runs better with 5w30 but I live in SoCal

 

Nice!

Not sure if anyone else enjoys his videos, but here is Project Farm oil comparison. Pretty compelling for Amazon Basics, but still cheaper to get M1 and Pennzoil on rebate.

https://youtu.be/a9DWGtXpYUc

 

I have no real desire to try and convince you of anything and don't have to prove a damned thing. But I will point out that they do NOT "buy stock oil, add their proprietary ingredients, and repackage." Amsoil is simply my preferred synthetic. You're free to use whatever floats your boat. I'm sure it will suit your truck just fine.
And you're welcome to keep your know-it-all attitude. Good luck!

 

Exactly. I've been a satisfied user of M1 but when you posted your 23K Amsoil independant lab test results I figured to give Amsoil a shot. Who knows...it may become my preferred too.

 

Every synthetic oil uses crude oil as their base, even Amsoil. The difference is in the refining and additive packages.

Think about it... what else could they use as their raw material? If Amsoil does not have a refinery, then they must buy refined oil from one of the big guys. If they have a refinery, they must buy crude oil from one of the big guys, unless they have their own wells. Even if they have their own wells, the oil than comes from the ground is the same as all the other companies. Or, they could use a natural oil from plants. No matter what, they have to use some type of oil as a base stock.

Everything ever created has a natural raw material.

All documentation about Amsoil not written by Amsoil states that their main location is in Wisconsin and that is where blending and distribution occurs.

Look, Amsoil might be the best oil ever but it is not special.

 

Exxon Chemical is one of the biggest base stock suppliers out there.

 

I’ve always used NAPA Synthetic, which is what my local off road garage uses in everything(personal rigs too), every 5000 with WIX filters. Not sure where the hell it comes from, but it has worked well for me and I see how it’s tested out, not lightly, in some the boy’s rigs who work there! Like the tire arguments, it seems like there are numerous quality companies, many are under the same parent company, and it’s too subjective to come to a satisfying conclusion for everyone!