1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Lies.
In their usual FedEx way, they disappoint me yet again

 

I hate to disappoint but I highly doubt that shit is arriving tomorrow. If it hasn't made it onto the truck yet and just arrived at a station in BX, you ain't getting that shit tomorrow.

 

Yup @bmf4069 just let us know when it doesn’t show up on time and you can join our ‘say No to FedEx for shipping’ group

 

Didn't you order that from Rock Auto? Their website only shows a 100A unit right now.

 

Yeah, I don't see it getting here tomorrow. Or Friday.

 

waiting for the wheel bearing kit to arrive! adding final touches to my interior and restoring the spindle. also got a notice of a part recall

 

I drove from Bronx (well slightly north of) to Amarillo in 2001.
Departure time I got into the car & the battery was dead - %^&*.
Swap batteries with the car that was staying home.
Tightening the nut on the positive post my wrench touched one of the metal a/c lines & sparked.
Of course - that put a pinhole in the line. Drove to Armadillo TX in July w/ no a/c. Great.
Fortunately, a convertible. unzipped the back window during the day, dropped the top at dusk.
but SOB!
Otherwise, a nice trip, besides that official Welcome to TX where the speed limit dropped from 80 to 65 while going down a hill. %^&*!
Wearing NY plates in TX is expensive - LOL

 

Yup, and I got a 130A. Current inventory:

100A alt, installed 5-6k miles ago, getting replaced w/130A soon
130A alt, FedEx cracked up plastics, uncertain other damage
130A alt, RockAuto replaced, looks to be in perfect shape

Big question is:
Do I send one back and get $70 on core?
Do I swap the good plastics from 100A to the 130A and have it tested for functionality?
Or some other option, like selling one on here and keeping the other?

I'm not really sure. I like the idea of a backup, though I doubt I'll need another in the next 5-10yrs.

 

Are you running Moog lower ball joints?

 

My 2006 still has the original tow package 130a alternator and this truck was beat to shit no maintenance all its life from previous owners. 16 years old now

 

yes but
from what I'm seeing here there is no more Moog. From here on out its all TRW in Moog boxes

 

I don't see how the slightly lower price could ever justify risking your life to poor quality units. For $188 I got both OEM joints as well as new bolts.

Just don't want to see someone hurt trying to save a few bucks.

 

Hey bud... think you're running a little rich on oil there...

 

It's not that at all.

I find it difficult to believe that a parts manufacturer/supplier just makes terrible parts and is able to sell them to the entire world. TENNECO was able to do their end and called out Senkei for not doing proper quality checks. They supply for most of the mainstream automotive aftermarket parts. Saying just get OEM doesn't solve anything when Toyota tried it first and failed the same way. They all do this and its usually the cheapest option comes first. Many of the failures I've seen from aftermarket had signs of the ball welding itself(shiny rough spot) and either no grease to be seen, dried up grease which will cause catastrophic failure due to moly being a solid filler or still has the initial yellow crap they call grease on them. Clearly these aftermarkets required greasing every 3k to 5k miles because they aren't high quality and have imperfections which only moly greases are designed to handle. The updated OEM is the only one designed not to be greased routinely and those who don't ever look under their car need to stick to. Locally the opinions of shops here I found don't match up to to online reviews. There are Many 1st gen Tundras and Sequoias in Minnesota and they run whatever the shops get their parts from which is mostly O'Reillys. So for a piece of mind I wanted to put this to rest by replacing my front end with Moog parts from Amazon. I inspected all my parts and came to the conclusion that yellow paste is not for use operating the vehicle since moog has no instructions or information or would even reply to an email about the yellow paste. Don't get me wrong though. I am not defending Moog as they are a dishonest garbage company and since this recall, so is senkei for disagreeing and not owning up to their mistakes. While I run these components, I am also testing Rustoleum on my frame which was heavily rusted and found how difficult it was to do it right. Thats the 2nd thing Toyota got cheap on was coating the frame with no rust inhibitor or substitute for rusting steel. If it fails it fails but I need to see this for myself because the failures have signs of neglect. I don't know if someone has attempted this before but all I could find was someone who cut open all these ball joints and revealed the workings. I was just not satisfied with answer from the community and the info used to back it up.

 

Cheap Truck Challenge! - Roadkill Episode 3 - YouTube FUCK i want all three

 

having had aftermarket ball joints on this style setup. all 3 sets of them were sloppy within 20k miles. meanwhile the OEM ball joints lasted 10 times that.


lowers are the only thing i preach should be OEM. anything else on the suspension? aftermarket is fine.

 

Say what you want but here Toyota is the LAST place you want to visit. Parts guy will sell you Napa and work done in their shop you can tell had 0 effort.

 

I dunno but you didn't explain how you got a 130A when their website doesn't list it?

Is there a difference in alternator from my 02 to your 06?

Let me know if you want to sell one.

 

He bought one of the last ones they had in stock. They are just out of stock right now, but they offer them.

 

Turns out the UBJ boots are thrashed. They still seem to be tight and in good shape internally, but I can't make sense of rebooting the 20 year old ones to save 60 bucks. Not with all the knuckle busting involved in extracting them. Am I thinking correctly here?

 

Just change them.
Or upgrade your UCAs and they'll come with new UBJs.

 

@Jack McCarthy you ready for this?

 

I just loaded a plane heading there.

 

My truck almost burned to the ground around ~65k miles because my factory 130A alt (my '06 also has tow pkg) caught fire internally. The truck itself was well-maintained by the 1st owner having it ~50k miles and decently maintained for the ~10k the 2nd added. Were it not for some quick thinking as I was pulling out of the NAPA parking lot, you'd probably see a diff't truck linked or an RIP in my signature.

Stuff fails, sometimes catastrophically. Lightning sometimes does strike twice, and thrice. Always good to do what you can to be prepared within reason

 

There may be a diff. Us Denso's site to find your p/n: https://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part.aspx

210-0757 is what my shop dropped in when I didn't have time, replaced the one that caught fire. 210-1065 is what RockAuto sent both times.

I'd lamented back when I originally ordered the 210-1065, RA showed "1 remaining in stock" and I wasn't sure if I'd secured one or not. I was pissed when FedEx bashed it up in transit, assuming I wouldn't be able to replace it. But RA found one somehow, new in sealed box.

I assume either of these parts will fit, but Denso would know for sure. I also assume you'd want the 130A and not the 100A? I'll get the 130A tested eventually and better assess its shape.

 

Found an 06 SR5 4x4 AC I'm interested in. Has 200k on the clock, one owner southern truck. Timing belt is due in 10k or so miles. Asking 12k. Thoughts?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2003-corolla-virus.89458/page-8#post-2607702

Almost clobberin activities this AM

 

At 200k miles even if it's loaded with leather captains chairs, steering wheel controls, woodgrain, and tow package, not sure $12k is the right number. You must consider having someone else do the TB+WP is $1.2k minumum, average $1.6k in my area, but excess of $2k if you go to the stealership. Also consider the front suspension, whether any of it has been done, b/c there's another $1k in work. At 200k on the clock, I'd expect it to be needed sooner than later.

Maybe $10k if it's never been used to tow, or pass. If it HAS been used to tow and you don't know the person well enough to trust whether they towed responsibly or thoughtfully, $8k or pass. The $2k jumps are just taking into consideration what you may need to put into it.

 

My truck, at 160k and two owners (myself and my friend) with light towing, one minor fender accident, and Cali rust free (similar to the south) has been at least $5k of appropriate maintenance. I’m in more like triple that because I wanted to make it nice for the next two decades. A reasonable cap on market value is MSRP from the original purchase. I figure on these older trucks it’s ok to venture close to sticker but to drop well over sticker is getting excessively irresponsible.

Tough time to buy. But if I had stumbled across a very clean truck like shifty’s or the one I drove past on the freeway a couple of weeks ago, that could be motivating. Just that most vehicles with 200k, even a responsible 200k, are not going to be all that clean. Lots of variation out there.

 

This is the core issue ^^

Once a vehicle passes that 150k-ish mark, I don't care how well someone babied the vehicle or how frequently they changed the fluids. The vehicle is almost guaranteed to have $3k-4k of work needed somewhere, whether that be brakes, suspension, fluids, drivetrain, interior and may have unseen issues, like if they never repaired the cowl, mildew may already have roots in the seat belts and plastics from prior water leaks. Only potential exception being if it was owned by a mechanic who religiously takes care of their stuff, though "mechanic-owned" is a 50/50 affair, sometimes the cobbler's kids have no shoes.

I suspect the seller is probably looking at the market to get to that 12k price. I suspect someone will actually bite at that price even, especially if the truck is clean, rust and accident free. Unless I saw some evidence the front suspension was done, or knew I wouldn't be forking out $600 + 2 days of time or $1200-1600 for the TP+WP, I'd be hard pressed to do it. Too many trucks in my area meeting that criteria (minus the 'one owner') for $7-9k to bother.