1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Had an SL-23 come my way a couple of years ago in similar shape. "Doesn't hold pitch" so I got it for $20. All it needed was a new belt ($8) and the pitch pots needed a little deoxit. Cleaned and re-lubed the spindle bearing, popped in a decent needle, it sounded amazing. Plinth was in excellent shape, but cover needed to be polished out. Re-sold it for $200.

 

All my best stuff is older than I am.
My Pioneer PL-518 turntable is so good.
My Technics SA-500 is my pride and joy, but like I mentioned before...it needs a little love beyond my scope.
I also have a TEAC single casette player that needs some love. Play won't hold down on its own anymore.

I can get to it, but I have not tried DeOxit. I'll give it a whirl. If it doesn't fix it, I would consider shipping it to you to tinker with.

 

I’m not sure what connectors they sourced. I did get some 4 and 3 make and female since then. The 4 male I had to source from China but the others I found at oem spec. So I could make a direct conversion harness for others in the future. For myself I just de-pinned and replaced the 3 way female with 4 way female.

got a reply on the MK3 fuse and looks like he is making more this week. I think that’s my final solution for alternator charging. Clean, stealth, easy to access.

The singer option sounded good at first but I’m no longer a fan.

 

i just got this.


I wanna fix it up with some modern speakers and BT once i get a smart tv. I fixed the turntable drive belt 10 years ago, but my great aunts son has messed with it since, so ive gotta open it up and check his work before i try to run it.

 

I used to be really into thrifting, picking up random audio equipment and seeing what all I could do with it. Also made a few bucks here and there flipping records that made it into the dollar bin.

 

So I shouldn't tell you that on my next days off I'm probably going to test drive a '22 and probably put down a deposit?

 

If you can do any of the shit you do on your truck, you can handle basic electronics refurbishment.

Doesn't matter if it's a guitar tone knob, switching selector knob on a head unit, potentiometer for pitch control on a turntable. If it's audibly creating scratchy or poppy sounds when you turn it, or doesn't seem to make solid contact, Deoxit D5 is king. You don't need to understand how the electronics work to use it, just a quick millisecond-shot into the spot where the metal in that dial/switch makes contact, then 5-10 full-sweep turns of the knob will fully clean it out and restore service for another 5-10 years. 75% of the time, any vintage hardware I get, I get it cheap because a fuse is blown and/or the knobs simply needed a contact cleanout after decades of use.

Don't get me wrong, CRC's contact cleaner is great too. But Deoxit has a full suite of products (D5, F5, G5) I feel like everyone needs.

For potentiometers ("pots"), they're often sealed but there's an access port to squirt into. Deoxit actually has a video to explain the process (link below) and do a variety of other things. It's so freaking easy, and you can get the products at your local Guitar shop, electronics shop, or buy online. D5 is generally for metal-on-metal. G5 and F5 are a bit more specialized, F5 is for crossfaders and slides, to clean and lubricate, and G5 is supposed to e for gold contacts IIRC. If you're going to get any of the trio, D5 is essential, and if you use anything with a slide, whether a crossfader on a mixer, a pitch slide on a turntable, or similar, get a can of F5 also.

Deoxit's video collection: https://caig.com/deoxit-d5-instructional-video-1-cleaning-pots/

I always feel like this guy does a great job of showing my typical method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ke1Whqzw13Q

A lot of pots I deal with look like this from behind, and you'll just need to put a quick shot into this divot/hole, then turn the knob lock-to-lock several times:

 

Ahhhh..... from the days when TVs and radios were also furniture.

NGL, that's pretty damn sweet. I see stuff like that on NextDoor and CL pretty often, but I just don't have space for it.

 

That's pretty close to what the selector looks like from behind. I'll order up a DeOxit (probably from big gurrl) and give 'er a shot.
Queuing up that video right now.

 

Tractor cleaned up nice. Got a couple fresh tubes of grease, and some 30wt and 90wt.

think im gonna pull the oilpan and have a look before i change oil. Just to be safe. I know this thing hasnt run in 10 years.

anyone have any experience in coating the innards of gas tanks?

 

I think you'll be shocked at the difference and how simple it is. Other than "make sure your shit isn't plugged in while servicing", the biggest tip I can share is a little goes a long way. 1/10 of a second spray is more than enough to get in and clean out in most cases. Make sure you use the straw.

I keep the bulk blue paper shop towels handy to catch excess. I've got a rubber tip blower on I'll pop onto my pancake compressor to blow everything out thoroughly after, then wipe down.

If you ever play games, this stuff also works with things like ... Nintendo switch Joycon drift, for example. Anything that uses basic contacts or metal-on-metal to complete a circuit can benefit. That includes things tht make electrical contact from a base like milk frothers, steam wand contacts on an espresso machine, headphone jacks on an iPad, anything that has a metal-on-metal, sweep, or other contact-based circuit.

 

So it'll clean up the contacts on my Garmin watch and any number of switches in that old car in my garage.
Definitely going to order a can today.

 

I can't say on the Garmin. Would want to see what you're talking about first before committing to a 'yes' on that. I probably wouldn't use it on something that's less than a decade or two old, honestly, because I doubt it would benefit.

This stuff works best for dials, sweeps, and slides IMO, but I'd drill home, it's just a glorified contact cleaner and conditioner. If those old car switches are contact-based and not behaving correctly for some reason other than full-on state-change corrosion -- i.e. it's not rust physically changing the state of the material which led to failure, it's instead a basic case of oxidation and dirt introduction causing your contact issues -- this stuff will significantly better or altogether fix that issue. Make sure you remove power sources from the switch before spraying for safety purposes.

 

I've opened one garmin (watch, not sure if you're talking an older nav device?) and tried my best to re-seal but ended up with water intrusion. It was a cheap way to get a new battery but in the end, I wound up buying new anyway.

 

The electrical system in the 911 is as rudimentary as you can imagine. It's simultaneously brilliantly simple and disappointingly contrived. Like every circuit was an afterthought. The upside is that if you want to remove anything, it's pretty easy.

The Garmin has four little contacts on the back that are basically in constant contact with your wrist when you wear it. Then those same four contacts are expected to not oxidize and make great contact with the charging/data cable. I can assure you they don't make as great a connection now as they did when it was new several years ago.

 

I've never used anything other than some isopropyl on a qtip for my Garmin. Seems to work pretty well, it's 5 years old and no charging issues.

 

Fenix 5X wristpiece with GPS/Glonass, topographical & street maps, heart rate, and a whole host of more features.
It's fantastic.

I bought it for our annual MTB trips where one of our group has a tendency to navigate by multiple guess.

 

Ah, yeah, I had one with the alligator clip for charging. Worth a shot to see how the D5 helps that but I suspect anything exposed to soap and water is going to be a challenge once it gets old. The newer design is better but still not perfect. It probably needs magnetic induction to charge but form factor limitations make that a real challenge.

 

If not operating properly and under warranty...

Also REI is pretty liberal with exchanges.

But, yeah, pricey piece of tech, worth a try. I have a 3 or 4 year old 935 (it was pretty new to market when I got it) and it's carrying along OK. I usually replace about as often as my phone, every 2-3 years.

 

Contact cleaner is contact cleaner, but I'll openly admit, I don't consider the skin-to-sensor type of contact to be what contact cleaner is intended for. If you have sensitive skin, I'd be wary.

Theoretically, I guess it all depends on what you consider human bodies. Carbon-based element, similar to a carbon contact pad? If yes, sure, I suppose it should work as advertised.

Like, most TV remote control buttons are a rubber button with carbon or gold pill on the back which complete the circuit between a pair of PCB contacts when you press it which you could say is similar to a watch touching human skin. While we're carbon life forms, I don't consider human skin to similar to that carbon backing though.

 

That's some sick MPG you got there bro. Hurry up and hit that 2nd fill-up.

 

@chrisb maybe a photo of what you're talking about? We're not discussing the IR LED for HR are we? That's just light as far as I know, but since I own the plastic poor man's fenix maybe I'm short some cool tech. Curious...

 

I'll have to remember to adjust for tire size once I swap. Rear leafs are the next big step forward, then wheels and alignment. Then it starts to get pretty close to done.

Got my shell T handles w shaft swap by a TW friend so I can use the two sided key on the windoor handles, super stoked on one key and double sided, just need to get them installed. And all sorts of bulbs/lighting/wiring to follow but that's on me.

 

Because I happen to be sitting at my desk, I assume the Fenix is similar..

 

And we're talking the bottom 4 metal contacts? Those are for charging, yes? Not for use on the skin as a sensor? The led emitters and receivers in the center I assume are for HR like my 935 just probably better.

 

What I have observed on my 935 is that the charging cable has spring loaded pins and they get stuck/gummed up with time. Replacing with a new charging cable resolves that. Wiggling it till they spring loose works OK sometimes. At least the charging cables are relatively inexpensive compared to other designs. I've burned through one already, have 2 in rotation right now between different charging spots.

 

Correct for charging. Not sure what yours uses, these ones kind of snap into the watch so we may be talking the same thing from different directions.

Looks like this.

 

yes, that's mine as well. I'd recommend a new charging cable as a first step, unless they have increased in price significantly. You can also look inside the smaller end and see if a pin is depressed. Prying it out works once but then it tends to get stuck again later. Could try some D5 on that part specifically if it helps? Maybe that was the idea, rather than the pin on the watch? If so that could make sense as the charge cable doesn't get exposed to water like the watch part does.

 

Mine is just like that except black and the lasers are in a differently shaped array.

All correct.

Mine is the same.

My watch still works a-ok. I wear it almost every day. I'm sure I'm just irradiating my blood with the lasers.
I should get my Tag fixed so I can put this lil guy back on weekend/mtb duty.

 

Apple watch uses the same tech and I think fitbit too? There are enough devices out in the wild that I think we'd know if there was a side effect worth paying attention to. With that said, I don't wear mine all the time even though it's nice for sleep monitoring b/c I kinda don't like stuff on my wrists/fingers.