1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Changed the o2 Sensors today. Want to recco this o2 Thread Chaser. You loaded it up with anti seize and run it in the hole. You can hear the crunchies getting worked out and trapped in the slots. See pics.

 

Been doing post-mortem analysis research. I noticed my old rear TOY sensors had different part numbers and started looking on a deep search, but can’t find the 0C060 sensor anywhere on TOY sites. I can find the 0C080 sensors, though. That 0C060 must be old!

I will OHMs bench test all these removed ones later today.

 

Discovered these o2 sensors removed from the upstream are Bosch’s. Weird design, as the holes are on the tip. These are about 6-8 years old. I’ve read others here and elsewhere say do not use Bosch. Not sure why as my truck didn’t blow up. Maybe these new DENSO will perform better due to design with holes all around the shaft.

 

Change or give it a few more miles?

From a FB FGT group...

 

JESUS CHRIST.

Did they say how many miles?

 

Wow. That is the worst one I’ve ever seen! Gives me hope on how durable these belts really are and probs the reason nobody comes on here and complains that theirs break.

 

Holy fucking shit!

 

@speedtre wow. Just wow. That is unbelievable really. I swear some people are so cheap, and so stupid they almost deserve whatever happens to them. I've seen people here brag about going 200K miles on the original belt. I can't even feel bad for them if something happens.

 

Didn't say...

"Alright so I thought the timing belt broke and I might have still but it still feels like it has tension on it. Do you think it skipped time? If so how bad? When it died we were taking off from a stop sign so the rpm was not very high. I’ve heard both results some say it’ll be fine some say it’s done. Picture of the belt."

 

My forensic English skills tell me that the writer is under 30 years old. Opening a sentence ^^ with those two words = dead give away...

.

 

And?

 

No and needed, but I’d add an explanation point!

 

I'm trying to remember, the last time you mentioned it they agreed to pay for new shoes and redo the seal. Was that already done?

 

Yep. The first time stealer had it was to correct the prior botched shops mistakes of wheel bearing gone bad. The second time the stealer had it the ‘seal was finessed’ back into place because ‘the tech put it back in like the prior shop’ botching.

They replaced the brand new brakes shoes I put on during brake re-build. Forgot to put on my star adjuster rubber drum cap and didn’t put on my OEM paper axle mating gasket. My feelings are hurt!

I think the stealer tech didn’t press the ring on properly based on his first fail of installing the seal per spec. I don’t think this guy followed any FSM based on deductive reasoning. Getting ready to call stealer now and will post back up about things later.

 

It's crazy how often people screw up this repair. There is a guy I follow online that had the same problem. He took his Tundra to 3 different shops, none got it right. Eventually he linked up with a random guy who did it in his backyard and got it right.

 

This is why I think I can do better than the stealer repair. I just called and spoke with stealer and the service person will be speaking with manager. Waiting for call back.

 

I vote @empty_lord starts a sticky thread on the definitive, ultimate, 100% correct way to do the rear bearings.

 

I can post the manual for the specs.

 

I've got the specs, but it seems every attempt ends in leaks. Is there something us shade trees are missing?

 

If the ring is pressed to the correct depth it should never leak. Unless y’all are nicking they seal putting the axles in

 

GUUUYSSS!!! I FIGURED OUT WHY MY BACK END CLUNKS. Pro hand model led me down the right path, ever since i got my 01 it has had an annoying ass clunk in the back whenever turning at low speeds, going on un even ground etc. I found the source today. It is my leaf springs, more specifically at the shackles ( i think?) That attach the leaf springs to the frame. Its not the shackle itself, its where the two main springs are kissing each other. Phew... now back to my misfire problem!

 

These came today.

 

We are in intense negotiations right now. ‘Climbing the ladder’ up to the main manager and we have a phone call scheduled for tomorrows next round.

So far today the service person has admitted:

1) NAPA parts don’t fit properly. This was the brand new kit provided for them.

2) I’ll need to pay $1400 for all new parts and labor (Toyota axle/rings/seal).

3) No refund of original labor to install the all new NAPA parts.

4) Service Tech that did this job is ‘their best guy’. Remember, he ‘finessed the seal’ after he wrongly put it in like the botch garage did the first time.

5) Sometimes even Toyota parts don’t fit properly.


I think the Retainer Ring on the inside (diff side) of the ABS ring isn’t mating up properly with the Axle Housing Seal. Is that right @empty_lord ?


The spec is 121.1mm from hub face to inside of the inside edge of the retainer ring. This is where things go wrong. What other pressing can go wrong? The ABS? Bearing Retainer for the Axle Bearing?

Seems like the Axle Housing Seal and Retainer Ring are the crucial pressing to stop leaks.

 

The easiest way to test is pill the axle out, Mark the retainer with a marker, put back in and it should have a ring in it after some revolutions.

 

Who supplied Napa parts? Them or you?

They fuck it up and want you to pay? Doesn't make sense.

 

@empty_lord

The botch garage had the NAPA parts delivered to stealership. Stealership agreed to install and performed install. Stealership now wants to use all Toy parts and charge me $1400 in ADDITION to the $560 in labor paid to Stealer to install NAPA stuff.

 

Is it time to buy a new rear end off a sequoia and do a disc brake conversion?

 

Yea... that’s a lot.