1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

5TBDT48126S526917

Is there a way to get around the paywall. I can't really see the pictures. I believe he has the carfax already so he knows it was a front end collision.

https://vinreport.io/vin/5TBDT48126S525301?aff=rQij0628

Here is the truck, it has factory nav which I've only seen once or twice.

https://www.knoxdrives.com/inventory/toyota/tundra double cab/17108/

 

It appears to not have been totalled, so the accident could not have been to severe.

 

Other than the frame I'd look at the body gaps between hood/fenders, door/fenders, open the hood and look for damage to the core support around the lights. If you have an OBD reader see if there's any codes pending for the air pumps, make sure the parking brake works halfway decent, make sure the O/D and LSD off buttons work, 4wd engages, give the driveshafts a quick look/shake to see if the joints are ok.

None of those IMO are deal breakers just something to either get repaired first or a price break, price isn't terrible otherwise though.

 

does anyone have advice for me I just parked my truck at a forest preserve. and went to start it and all I can hear is clicking. every time I hit my starter with a wrench it wants to turn over a little bit more any advice I'm stuck lol

 

Dead battery? Have a multi meter you could test with? If you experienced a cold spell, that might be the final nail in the coffin for a battery.

 

someone is grabbing me jumper cables right now my scan gauge says my battery voltage is 9.5 I'm pretty sure it's my battery

 

Do you know if this is the super expensive master cylinder that some 05-06 with VSC have? It looks completely different than mine.

 

It is indeed

 

Is this the TPMS light?



Also, is the back window not supposed to roll all the way down on the double cabs?

 

Who is in charge of this thread? https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-tundras-info-dump.52214/page-2
Why has it not been updated in a year?
Why is it so locked down?

 

Yeah.

 

On my 04 DC the back window rolls all the way down. Rolling up it stops halfway as a safety feature and you have to press the button again.

 

What do you guys make of this? It's the backside of the rear fender. Almost looks like evidence of some poor body work/bondo job.

 

That's pretty ugly, doesn't look like bondo though more like sealant. Is it rubbery feeling?

Kind of looks like it took a shotgun blast lol

 

I enjoyed getting to drive a VVTI Tundra for the first time. It certainly felt faster than my truck, and seemed to accelerate smoother. I think this truck is a pass though.

Things I found:

• coolant res nearly empty and what was present was the wrong type of coolant.
• power steering fluid instead of ATF.
• even when warmed up, the oil pressure gage was pegged at H when accelerating and 3/4 when idling.
  
• valve covers leaking or leaked in the past. Is it the cam seals that are a pain to replace on the VVTI engine? I think those may have been leaking also.
• signs of poor body work done all over including various runs in the paint and the cottage cheese bed pic I posted above.
• CV axles throwing grease. I couldn't tell if they were torn or just leaking.
• passenger rear axle seal blown. Grease all over the rear brake packing plate. Driver side had possibly the same issue beginning too.
• various frame rust that could probably be fixed. Frame also delaminated on both sides.
• needs a new carrier bearing.
• possible rear main seal leak, or just leaking from above. Too much oil to tell.
• the frame was bent in roughly the same place on both sides. I almost looked like the truck was dropped or fell on the frame.
• rear window would only roll halfway down.
• tail pipe missing after muffler. It sounded cool.
• TMPS light on.
• Window tint peeling.
• Lastly, the brakes felt so strange. It was the hardest brake pedal I've ever felt and completely different than my truck. Braked well though.

I feel like I should be an inspector for CARMAX now.



Bent frame

 

Well my phone jumped out of my pocket at the dock, right into the water..... I only caught one thing on this trip, my phone! When we came back across the next day I used a weight and a treble hook and fished it off the bottom! I'm sure it's toast...... But oh well!
Me and the boy had a great time!
Tundra pulled the trailer great, the trailer rode much better at 30psi vs 12psi when I checked it!

 

You have to PM a moderator to update it if you want something added. They locked it down because we're horrible about off-topic chatter which would just clog up the tread and make it useless.

 

My alignment is scheduled for 8:00 am tomorrow morning at the super duper schmancy place. $85+tax

Now, someone mentioned some alignment specs that were recommended by some guru I'd never heard of. Maybe it was @MrDirtjumper?

Should I let the alignment shop figure out the camber, or is there a tolerance/spec for that?

Paging the known suspension gurus:
@Darkness @empty_lord

Anybody else feel free to chime in.

 

@Tundra2 google "tundra dj alignment specs" and the legacy of the unknown guru shall rise.

Or I can do it for you since you've been working so hard.

 

Camber and toe factory spec. Like 2.7 degrees of caster is what I was happy with on mine.

 

Going by SPCs paper work. At the "stock" position the caster is at +2.0. Let me check my notes.

 

Currently set at the "D" position on both sides.

+2.0 on caster.

Should be fine for a deer killing road warrior?

 

Go as high as you can on the caster.

If you feel like doing some digging, go to Tundra Solutions and mess around there. The search function there sucks and you’ll have to sort through some broken links but there is a ton of info.

If I remember correctly, DJ was an engineer who designed the most common alignment machine used throughout the 2000s. I think due to liability reasons, he would never come out and say, “this is exactly what you should set caster at” It was always, “Caster needs to be at the top range of Toyota spec”.

Wish we could ask him, but I believe that he has passed on.

Either way, I am almost dead certain that you cannot have too much caster on these trucks. In my experience, caster was mostly limited by getting the camber to an acceptable positive number. I know when I finally got it right my caster was somewhere close to 3. But then again, that’s with factory UCAs. That SPC adjustment will give you a lot more if you need it.

 

I am about to go have my truck re aligned after about 1000 miles. So the instruction for the tech should just be give it as much caster as possible while keeping the camber in spec? Is there anything else I need to tell them? I need this truck to track like a dream on the highway because i70 through KS is brutal enough as it is.

 

You should be fine with that setting. Your stock cams should still be able to get over 3

 

found this cool combo on offerup.

01 grille with 03 bumper

 

I took mine to a Firestone and told them exactly that. This is what they set at and the truck drove like a bag full of mashed up assholes. Darted all over the place and would not track straight if any wind was blowing.


According to DJ, and as you can see above, the specs that are preloaded in the machines have a huge range and most techs are only trained on how to “get it within the green”. They don’t care what the numbers are, or how it drives, just that it left the rack within the acceptable range.

So I threw away $100 by going that route. If you have a trustworthy alignment tech, go for it.

I’ll post what I finally got my numbers to be this evening. I know camber was slightly negative and caster was a very high 2.X. Truck drives like butter now. I think the positive camber is what was making it drive terrible.

 

I always think of this song when I see you post these findings.
https://youtu.be/UjeTq2fShRc

 

One of the guys I rode with last week did a write up on the trail if anyone cares. He posted a lot more pictures.

Here I am trying to avoid this unknown mud hole like a pansy.