1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I'm in PA and in 67 years of working on them have never broken a wheel stud. Having said that, if they were overtightened in the first place I can see where they might break.

 

I've snapped a few on lug nut removal, but that's usually because tire shops f'ed up the lug nut install.

 

Yep. If you need to stand on your tire iron to free a lug, it’s on too tight. Been there plenty of times and the only reason I goto shops that properly torque them.

 

85 ft/lbs for alloys. Not very tight.

 

Once on a trail with @nice we had a 1/2” impact that wouldn’t break some lug nuts loose. Then steps in @nutbuster with a 4 way and pops them loose like it was nothing!

 

Ran across this the other day (I think it was here in the Milwaukee thread) and grabbed the text and sent it to a buddy of mine, interesting facts on those impacts. Did he keep it rollin smoke for over 15 seconds?

I'll teach you guys something about the TORQUE OUTPUT of milwaukee impacts and other electric impacts.

I spoke to a milwaukee engineer once. And he told me information that I've never seen mentioned in the manuals or in reviews.

We were talking about the 1/2" high torque impact. And he explained to me that if the impacts gave maximum torque the second you pull the trigger. That nuts and bolts would be constantly ripping apart. He explained that you have to pull the trigger and hold it without releasing, and that the torque ramps up 100ft/lbs every second. So to get max power put into a bolt you have to hold the socket straight and square, then keep holding the trigger, after 5 it starts ramping up the torque figure. He said to reach max torque with the 1/2" high torque, it's after 12 seconds of holding the trigger.

The smaller impacts same principal.

To get max power you do have to hold the trigger and let the torque ramp up.

Buzzing it for 3 seconds then letting go, the buzzing for 5 seconds and letting go... is not how to get max torque. You got to hold the trigger for over 10 seconds.

The engineer said the software in the impact is designed to ramp up torque with trigger duration. If you let go. Got to start again.

 

From a practical standpoint, that’s not a good thing to do unless you don’t care about your impact sockets because that pounding will open up and round out the square anvil socket input.

I’ve already done that to a 1/2” 12 mm socket with my right angle impact getting those rear bumper bracket bolts off. Deformed it after 10 seconds of continual pounding to break the rust bond.

 

I'm just a messenger lol. That's how they say it works. I understand your point though.

 

He is more himself everyday. Checkup scheduled for the end of the week, hopefully we get the all clear to start doing some normal activities.

 

Today's tool I bought for absolutely no good reason: Wera - 5003527001 Zyklop 8794 A Wobble extension, Square drive 1/4" Head x 56mm Extension

 

Shiny.

 

Here I was expecting German craftmanship and supposedly the dirty rats made it in Taiwan!

With a name like Zyklop, it has to be cool, right?

 

Any of you yankees ever had to hammer alloys off? Hitting the tires on a f150 from corpus didnt work. Had to make a bar that could hit the spokes to free it.

 

I thought it was manufactured in the Czech Republic?

 

Brilliant! Thanks

 

We'll see. A guy on Amazon was griping that he received it and discovered that Wera made it in Taiwan. At least it isn't China. I'm old enough to remember when Ohio was pretty strong in tool and die.

p.s. Always get it confused....Czech or German. OK, I looked it up. Headquartered in Germany. Production facilites in the Czech Republic.

 

Sledgehammer and block of wood.

 

Nice score Knothole! I can’t wait for more updates. Do you have a winch picked out for it yet? Fyi, most smaller ARB bumpers can house a warn winch up to a 10k (the old school 10k winches, not the newer ones. I don’t think they can house the warn “integrated” winched either, but i’m not positive on that one.

And if you’re worried about more front end rake, put some more firewood in the bed.

 

I was looking at the Warn site last night. The instructions say it'll take a low profile Warn up to 12K. I noticed most of the higher end winches need a $150-$200 wiring kit to move the wiring box off the top of the winch. Probably go with something like the Warn Zeon 10-S winch if I can find a good deal on it, but I still need to crawl under the bumper and measure everything first.
Also need new fog lights for it and I need to replace a few missing bolts that ARB said I should have that weren't on my truck.

Front end only dropped 1cm when I measured it before and after the bumper swap. Not too bad, and doesn't everyone drive around with firewood in the back of their truck?