1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

You can simulate the weight and have better braking all of the time by adjusting the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve.

 

This SHOULD be done FIRST, before adjusting the star wheel or else you WILL cook your rear shoes and drums.

Edit: Per FSM bellcranks should be between 4mm and 8mm from the backing plate. Mine are at 6mm. My parking brake clicks 7 times for full lock.

 

I did some adjusting on bell crank, and cable last night, and they’re a lot better than they were.
I need to pull hubs, and fine tune, before adjusting the LSPV.

 

I never touched the star wheel last night. just took majority of slack out of bell crank and cable, and let emergency brake to the work.

Bell crank had at least half an inch of slack at C before I started.
Edit: it was more than 1/2 inch. It’s probably close to 1/4 6mm right now. that’s why I want to break it down this weekend and fine tune

 

You can do all of this from underneath the truck without pulling the wheel and drum. There is an adjustment window for the starwheel located in the backing plate just above the axle. With 2 small screwdrivers, you can use one to push on the adjuster tab out and the other to back off the starwheel. Takes just a minute or two. Then set the bell cranks (4mm - 8mm). After that, using the inspection window, adjust the starwheel to where you have a slight drag when spinning the wheel from contact with the shoe and the drum. Then back the starwheel off 3 notches. That's how you dial in the rears. After all of that, if you want more rear brake bias, then adjust the LSPV.

 

I mean, if you make a single adjusment you can have the brakes grab better when it's unloaded too.

 

Would 650 springs for King extended travel be useful to anyone? Had them on for about a year. Welcome to pick them up if you need them. Glendale area of SoCal.

 

I'll do it that way.
I was going to pull the drums cause I have yet to get into the drivers side, passenger was good, BUT I had enough of the heat this week so that way it will be.

 

I've been using emergency brake today, and it keeps getting better. I'm going to fine tune it this weekend, and test it out, before deciding to adjust the LSPV.

 

on another note;
Hoping work truck is ready to go tomorrow. As much as I like my Tundra I Don't like driving it for work. 160 miles in 2 days on some really rough, and steep roads. And lot of wear and on starter. Start, short trip, turn it off, load it up, start, trip, leave it running so helpers don't cook, back in it and to job, turn it off. Repeat.
Get home today, and have white paint mist or plaster all over it from some jackass painter I guess having leaking in a vehicle, and driving by. Plus got windshield popped with rock yesterday, and a spider crack starting to move from it. Why I don't like using my truck in that area.
Took me hour and half to get the bigger bits of paint off. The misted paint will be a pain.

chevrolet place called employer today, and said the GMC work truck needs another fuel pump.
Said they then had a cause they said last one is just out of warranty again, and he told them this one better have a guaranteed warranty, as its the 3rd one in 1.5 years as well as being in for another fuel related issue in between, and if they weren't going to then don't touch, and he would have it towed to someone who would. Said they called him back hour later, and said they would put this one in free of charge. Those things are $1200 a pop. Total bill is usually around $1800.

I still think it has to do with in tank fuel filter getting stopped up from driving on all our dusty gravel roads and no fuel cap, burning up the fuel pumps, and getting trash in fuel regulator.

If someone gave me one of those trucks with that tank set up for free, I'd sell it ASAP.

One of the other work trucks a year newer than mine with a fuel cap just got back from having to have a complete new rear end. Has less mileage than one I drive.

 

Dude, reply #33 has what you need to know. https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/page-2#post-3360528

 

Yo experts, are these factory front coils from a 2006? Killer deal on marketplace but I’ve never seen factory coilovers.

 

I can't speak for the shocks, but OEM coils should have paint marks on them like this pic.
Not sure what color those would be for a 2006 but there should be paint spots on them.

 

My 2006 Limited AC with original OEM suspension on it used KYB struts (those are struts, not coilovers), and they were black, with a stripe at the bottom just as you're showing.

While it's true they could/should have paint marks, they may be on the other side, or the seller may've cleaned the paint marks off thinking it was road filth. It looks like they've been coated in WD40 or silicone spray, honestly.

 

@shifty` you seem to be fairly knowledgeable on the interior doors?
Is there a link anywhere here, or do you know of website, or in FSM that shows door panel removal on the ‘06 limited?
Watched couple videos, but none are showing my door. My handles are different than videos I’ve watched.
They all show 4 screws, I can only find 2 on mine.
I got my door handle in for the one I broke. I’d like to fix it.

 

Just saw a nice FGT with Texas tag pass.
Fairly certain I’ve seen it on here.
Medium blue, or a gray with same color topper.
Nice truck.

 

Paint marks on coil spring.

 

Those honestly look like second gen struts

 

This help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzorTRu-7FY

 

Yes sir.
Thank you. That will do it.
All videos I was able to find only showed those with 4 screws.