1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

WTF? I signed up for that notice too... No message. Hope that you gots one...

 

I might've been a little earlier in the line. I dunno, I've been putting my name in the mix for probably going on 4-6 months now.

 

LMK if ya did score. Please..

 

Is that the heavy duty alternator?

 

Sequoia 150A. Plug and play for our VVTi-era trucks.

 

I think that video is originally what jogged my memory regarding these things even existing.

They are better than walking I guess, but the X90 was supposed to be the replacement for the Samurai. Hardly an adequate replacement!

 

I thought the Jimny was the replacement?

 

Did you actually launch your truck like that? If so, impressive.

 

Good googa mooga! Now THAT'S a pickup truck. Reminds me of the International XT pickups.

 

Half unloaded, polo smells my straps & says, ‘hey knucklehead, you didnt snap these & claim they werent going anywhere.’



now he’s ignoring me & has banned me from using the dolly.

truck did great (sorry if anyone bet the heater pipe o-ring would blow out). Trailer did great, tires & bearings stayed cool, lights worked the whole time, and i didnt get hassled for having a ‘19 sticker. Pulled like a dream over 120 miles, got about 13mpg, no no-swaybar issues (even through extra narrow backroad construction). I can see why people might feel like the brakes are lacking, but i’ll be damned if i was gonna let that dipshit poke at his phone in front of me. My truck really does sound amazing under extra load. A little too loud for everyday, but perfect today. Very happy. Now, to get restarted on the stuff i was doing before i was so rudely interrupted.

 

Because of you, I've started using OD off more often, especially when I need to stop faster.
Sometimes for race mode.

 

When I pull the travel trailer, I tow with OD off to keep it out of overdrive obviously (save the planetaries!). But I will also downshift into 2nd for engine braking, or in anticipation of a steep climb to keep the UZ in the powahband.

 

Kind of surprised at only 24K... though I am not sure why, that is a lot of money.

 

yeah, i expected it to be in the 40s 50s even, esp with the signatures and memorabilia

 

I wish Toyota actually put info about the parts. I don't know apart from price, what makes these brake pads different? They all fit my 03.

https://autoparts.keatingtoyota.com/products/product/pad-kit-disc-brake-0446535290

https://autoparts.keatingtoyota.com/products/product/fr-brake-pad-04465az200

https://autoparts.keatingtoyota.com...-kit-disc-brake-l-fitting-parts-fr-044650c012

 

the pads with machine shop floor sweepings are probably metallic, the black pads are probably carbon, and the ones without pics might be ceramic? Just guessing.

https://www.bridgestonetire.com/learn/maintenance/ceramic-vs-metallic-brake-pads/#

why dont those ‘kits’ show pins, clips, & springs?

 

When in doubt, consult the EPC --> https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/
Get the actual part number there, should be in Transmission & Chassis > FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER.

For my 2006, with WL13, it shows the 1st link is correct, part ending -35290 but you need to buy the shims (04945-0C030)

What I can tell you is this: Regardless which you choose of the your three links, it appears based on pictures that neither one of them comes with the shims preinstalled. So you need to buy the shim kit, and some CRC Disc Brake Quiet, and install the shims prior to pad install.

Me?

For a 2003 with WL13, I'd buy the AD0976 kit below for $42+tax+ship, which includes 4 pads, pre-glued shims, new springs, and a packet of grease; everything you need to complete the job.

Advics/Aisin made the factory pads, rotors, and wheel cylinders. Here are the two pad kits for our 1st gen trucks.

​

 

04464-35290 are the OE pads for the larger calipers. Very good. Yes there is more cost, but these give a better brake pedal feel.

04465-AZ200 are the TCMC Value pads for larger caliper. Likely same as

$64 Advics AD0976 Front Brake Pad

Advics AD0976 but without the shims. These cost a little less and are typically what the dealer uses for non-warranty work.

04465-0C012 are the OE pads for 2000-2002 with smaller calipers.

I prefer installing the 35290 pads and new shims when possible. Nothing wrong with the Advics AD0976 pads, especially for the money. The Advics single layer shims are not as good as the two layer OE Toyota shims. Through multiple sets and installs, I haven’t found the Advics shims to be glued on, only clipped.

 

Learning me good today.

Thanks

Thanks

 

I dont have any hate for my powerofstop z23’s 20k and they handled the trailer great. The dust has darkened, but i didnt have any worries about my brakes in stop/go traffic and hilly backroads with blind corners. They handled the trailer just fine. It was heavy because the wood was saturated, like 3 days of rain, not a normal spring sprinkle.

speaking of, i need to replace the floor. Thinking about gapping the boards a bit & sheeting the top with ply. Thinking i’ll skip the paint & fenders. Nobody tailgated me, & gave fair berth while passing.

 

Maybe I'm crazy for this, but I actually love towing trailers. I find it fun. I'm not normally challenged by everyday driving- but I am when towing a trailer. It just requires more attention and skill, and it's fun for me to get to use that skill. That said, I've never been in a situation where I've had to worry about the capability of my tow vehicle.

I work for a landscape renovation company in the summers and I get to tow a 24' box trailer behind either an F350 or F550 every day. This upcoming summer we're going to have an 18' equipment trailer too. Total length when towing the enclosed with the 550 is close to 50 feet.

 

You’d like a motorcycle (not in traffic). Yea, i really enjoy it. The sadistic side, is i’m always extra courteous unless someone earns otherwise, but with the trailer, i feel i have more of a right of way. I’m not gonna hop in the fast lane and cause traffic, but if someone leaves a gap i need, i can take it. Also, i get .25 sec of red light, cause i’m not slamming on my brakes. Crossroad stop signs are a little hairy, cause i didnt have my dog, but so far everyone thats needed to wait has made the right choice.

 

The 'glue' in this case (Disc Brake Quiet) is more for avoiding squealing/vibrations of the shim rattling against the pad. It's not 100% necessary, and I don't know if the FSM references using it or not, but it's one of those easy-to-do, better-safe-than-sorry steps that'll keep someone from needing to go back in there later.

 

Anyone know where I can get new cup holder foam spikes? They are falling apart and like a scab I couldn't resist picking at them.

 

I think blackmamba did that, or tx tundra, one of the dallas guys.

 

i’ve just always used grease (unless silicone came in the kit). A little bit goes a long way if youre not mudding or driving through flood water, but recently i learned about bentonite grease, and if i get some, i think brake shims and drum pivot points would be perfect.

 

I'd highly recommend that CRC product. I always grease the back side of my shims where piston meets shim (if shim is present). But that CRC product will absolutely kill any sort of vibration, and is very similar to what OEMs use at the factory to lock shims onto the pad.

 

If you have a 3D printer, (maybe @FiatRunner ?) one of our members has a drawing to print them out.

I got mine off fleaBay. There are two major vendors for it. One of the cheapies will fade to purple pretty quick. I can dig up my auction link from when I bought them. But I just ended up replacing my entire cupholder, since it was cheap enough and I was upgrading to woodgrain anyway.