1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I've been wondering how hard it would be to convert my rear window to a power sliding one. #DoubleCabEnvy.

 

Not sure about the geometry of the glass, but I think where you'll hit problems is our AC rear seats and the way they bolt up won't give the 1-2" void necessary for the rear window gearing and scissor parts.

You should be able to get away with a rear side-slider like I have on my truck, though.

 

I was laughing at his opening thread. Sounds like he was tired of chasing mods with mod corrections. I love his forthrightness.

 

That's what I meant. I know the slid down window won't work. I'd just like to be able to slide it horizontally. My back seat is already removed so that's a plus.

 

Should be really easy.

 

There was some chatter on this topic in the First Gen FB group a while back - seemed like a hell of a lot more work than anyone wanted for sliding glass.

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=3649&GroupID=1914&History=30587:21770:1336:21770:1380:1408&ModelID=1914&pom=0
Did later AC’s have a power sliding rear window?

 

Gotcha. Yeah, unless something major changed about the geometry of the opening (doubted), it should be an easy affair. Worst part may be integrating it into the dash.

Mine does, a horizontal slider like what you pictured. DCs have a vertical slider.

Truth be told, I thought about getting a DC to get the overhead temperature, the sunroof, and rear vertical slider, plus having an easier/simpler subwoofer install. But the damn thing was a couple inches too long to fit in my garage, I have a good 8-10" between my rear bumper and the garage door with an AC.

 

@FirstGenVol I thought about the rear power slide too. To my knowledge, that was a limited option only.

I was never curious enough about it because my gut feeling is that I do not have the proper wiring connectors to make everything a clean, easy install.

I've got the blank in the dash where it lives.
I'm not sure about having the disconnected harness for the switch behind the dash...

I'm not sure about the connectors by the rear cab wall...

 

It’s not super hard, you have to find the parts though

 

Wiring may still be available from Toyota. Lots of harnesses out there.

I have the roof harness the DC use for the overhead clock/temperature thingy. I wanted to convert my AC to have that overhead console but petered out, now I just have it laying around. I think it retails for $150-something, if anyone is looking to do that upgrade naturally, gimme a holler.

 

Welcome to AZ! Good move arriving after sundown. Is what you're noticing something that didn't happen before? With the engine off, is the accelerator pedal smooth when you step on it? Any chance (this happened to me in a Ford) a floor mat/rug is slightly hanging up the pedal?

 

@Tundra2 hey do you have the 1/4 or 3/8 power ratchet from milwaukee?

 

M12, 3/8 stubby impacto.

I've been eyeballing the power ratchets though. They look SUweet!

Went with the 3/8 originally because my thought process was: "Mid-size head means one adapter gets me 1/4 drive, and one adapter gets me 1/2 drive."

 

Pre surgery on the new rolla. Crusty little bugger. But meh. The new engine will look really good in here

 

I think its happened before, just never noticed until the long 5hrs of staring at the road. Just when I let off its alittle delay in rpm drop. Doesnt happen at slow speeds though I dont think but Ill pay attention to it and try to get a video

 

What engine are you throwing in there?

 

same engine. just out of a 2012 with 12k miles. paid $900 for it.. it'll be here wednesday. its a work car my fathers going to use. going to setup the same radio i have in my tundra, get factory remote start working, put some fogs on and add steering wheel controls.. just make it more comfortable.. i paid 500 bucks for the car. its pretty much base model with power windows and thats pretty much it. he plans on using it till he retires then either i'll sell it, or keep it for my winter commuter.
Needs a driver side door and the passenger rear dog leg needs repair.. but other than that for 500 bucks its not a terrible car.. KBB without all the stuff i'll add is ~5k. All the shit im adding will only make it more desirable since nothings not factory.



I did almost put a 2.5l with a 6 speed auto out of a 2012 camry in it.. but decided to fix up the camry and sell it... (it uh... needed extensive under body work.. but was fixed good and its gone)

 

I think I might eye ball one into my arsenal soon, another member recommended it for a up coming “job”

 

The ratchet? If so, I want a review!

 

So tundra interior needs to be finished. That’s the big thing right now. Tacos getting love. Once the tacos running tundra will be getting some upgrades. First things first, I want a roof rack on the cap and an internal “cage” to support some weight.

Long tubes will happen plus full custom exhaust

Beefy front bumper and rear bumper. Sliders as well (sliders will likely happen sooner rather than later) and I’m hoping to find someone who can cut out frame reinforcement plates for the rear of the frame to kill som frame flex. After that, I would call the tundra “done” even though it may still get icon or kings shocks with expo leafs... but again. Just planning for the future.

 

Do you fucken mind?

​

 

The Taco owner I bought my fridge from reinforced his camper shell with unistrut. It looked good and seemed to work well. He was an absolutely massive dude and he plus his wife are able to sleep on the camper shell in a RTT.

 

I was going to make a “cleaner” mount for the cap that used aluminum and j hook. This setup can then have aluminum square stock welded on and be a frame... at least in theory. I won’t. Be putting a RTT up there. But I would like to have the load supported by the bed sides rather than the fiberglass topper

 

Thats exactly what she said

 

Needs a bottle opener.

 

@Surf_spear_Mex I'm not sure how I feel about this basket. My topper isn't flat so the basket only touches in the middle. The bolts they provided for the wind faring are too short to work. I'm also curious how much it's going to impact my MPG. One reviewer said he lost 3MPG. I can't afford to lose 3MPG.

 

Ouch 3 mpg??

 

Yeah that's what he said.

There has to be an easy way to mount this awning directly to my topper. CVT claims the L brackets that came with it would work but I don't see how.

 

I’m going to use rails to mount a rack so I can remove it when I don’t need it... it’s mostly going to be used for storing tubings like the chainsaw and shit when I camp. The topper is for sleeping