1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

This is why I'm thinking 2884s, bottom clip. Possibly going airbags on the rear. It's either that or ATS HD.

 

What is your end goal again?

 

I bet the fronts will be the most noticeable.
I had 5100's on both my Tacomas set to the fourth notch, (which was highest for those models) and they were very stiff.

 

Level stance, not overly stiff ride, good handling on and off road, ability to tow/haul without rear sag. I'm planning on keeping it mostly stock. May upgrade to 17" wheels at some point for a brake upgrade. It's not terrible now, it wallows in corners a bit, I have some sag in the rear with the shell on it, and I can't put much in the bed without exacerbating the sag.

 

No

 

I would go 2884 and call it a day for level. Or 2883 if you don't want to look blatantly level, but want to erase the OEM rake. Or get 6112s, which come with springs (you buy tophats and isolators and assemble) and run 4/2 for driver/passenger.

 

I broke lots of stuff with 33s…lots more stuff with 35s. No problems yet with the 37s, but with each and every tire size i had to do swap in bigger and stronger axle shafts and housings.

 

If you're interested and I ever get some time to myself to finish assembling the lsd diff for @metalpete, I'll probably have a second set of lightly used rear 5100's.

 

Sold my 2019 today. Not sure how I feel? It was a good truck. New owner is gonna enjoy it for sure. Easier to just have one truck anyway. Back in the one Tundra club.

 

Probably easier to have just one anyway. Are you all down to two vehicles now other than your kid(s) car(s)?

Don't forget to change your vehicle description.

 

What's the safest way to sell a used vehicle to a 3rd party? Cashier's check is no good right? Cash only?

 

cash is the only option.

 

I sold the taco and got a cashiers check. Caveat was twofold. 1) the guy had to meet me at my bank, and I mean literally in the parking lot, and would not get the keys or the title unless the deposit was successful at my bank. 2) before any of that, take the cashiers check number and call their bank using that bank's official online number (not the number printed on the check) and verify that mr ___ did actually pull this check number ###### and it was $___ amount.

Worked out ok and the buyer was willing to do that for me since he didnt want to carry that much cash. Not sure if there are scams to be done with those precautions though, I'm sure cash is still the safest.

 

Oh and check driver's license to match the name on the check

 

Cash has its own issues though. Only way to do that would be to stay strapped and meet somewhere like a police station.

 

Haven't met at a police station, but definitely in public places. And, ALWAYS with my friends, Smith and Wesson.

 

I bring my friend from Austria, Gaston.

 

I was going to suggest the police station. Typically you can get the police to help oversee the transaction. I would suggest if using cash to buy you a counterfeit detector pen to mark all the bills to make sure they are real. If they buck at meeting at the police station then it's probably a scam.

 

Every vehicle I've sold...

If it's less than $5k, cash is fine but I bring a counterfeit pen with me.

But I usually recommend the buyer meets me at their bank and they have their bank cut a certified check in front of us both. If they don't want to pay the fee, if there is one at their bank, I offer to cover. If they still won't do it, I know they're up to some weird shit.

I also bring two copies of a liability release, and have us both sign and date, and a witness sign and date, basically "This is being sold with no claims/guarantee/warranty on X date and time, buyer releases me from all reliability starting at the time of signature", etc.

I only do the latter after a friend had someone buy his Camaro, then plow down a pedestrian less than an hour later. The buyer hadn't notified insurance, claimed he was on a test drive. They came after my buddy's insurance, insurance dropped him, turned into a huge legal mess b/c buyer paid cash, which he denied paying, because he knew eating that cash would be cheaper than the bills coming from the incident.

I don't fuck around anymore. And I hold onto the paperwork for at least 3-4 years before purging it, or scan off a copy.

 

Just a flexin..

 

You can NEVER be too careful. It's unfortunate that I have to feel this way, but I automatically don't trust people off the rip. Too many scammers and shitheads out there.

 

When I bought from private owners, I've always payed cash, brought a second person for backup and to drive my other vehicle home, and brought my pistol.

 

I'm guessing a bunch of y'all have a four day weekend for my bday, I mean Labor Day. Kinda slow for a Friday.

 

9 day weekend.

 

Nice! I usually have 3.5 day weekends. Now I'm down to 2.5 days, because OT

 

Same here. Dash cam recording. Have my wife or whoever sneak a pic of the car and license plate. I conceal carry every day so there’s that too. Little overkill, but I usually do a little digging on the Facebook profile to judge character before we meet.

 

This guy flew in. Worked the financials out prior. Quick and easy, nice guy.

 

I also stalk their profiles.
I never thought about the dash cam or to sneak a pic of the LP and car.

 

Damn! That's a nice slice of pie. Enjoy it. Do you have anything planned?