1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

That's what the first 3 Tacoma's looked like before I found the one I bought.

 

Is that canopy as huge as it seems? Details? I need something taller than the RV & 2 vehicles wide. Or 3 wide.

 

What that's fine there's nothing wrong there .....

 

Bro that sounds like your average jeep or turd gen owner lol

 

it is. I think its 26'x23' & at least 12' tall. But its not water proof, rain becomes a mist underneath.

 

Me today
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_E4_tjRhIT/?igsh=MW8wdG0zaWlzaHVkZg==

 

I want one!

 

Or 2?



contractor must've changed company names or something. Cant find a website.

 

I got some data on the Vic. I have no fucking clue what I'm doing.



Usb-a didn't work. Glad I bought a usb-b as well.



These DTCs were in there when I got into the right system. I erased them but the O2 one stayed.



I dunno, stuff.



Here we go, live data!



"Warning, danger to intake manifold"

So I made a pull around the block. I got it to do the thing at 5k in 2nd gear, but I don't know how to read it. I couldn't figure out how to save it as a file either. But, fuel pressure and boost both stayed constant. It's only pushing 5-6 pounds of boost at peak rpm.



These codes came on IMMEDIATELY when i floored it in first.

So that wideband o2 sensor is either $125 or $175. I don't know which one I have. There's something about a canbus wideband o2 with the haltech stuff. I need to get under there and look at things.

 

I found a 20 hour course to learn.

https://www.evansperformanceacademy.com/haltech-elite-vhx

 

Feel like this is what you end up with when you get someone else's project. It's fine really as long as you're willing to figure some shit out. I feel like the wide band fault could be causing any of the running issues you've got.

 

Yeah, I found that. It's $50 a month or $500 a year just to subscribe for the videos. Or, that same dude wants $750 to tune it for you. I found another guy online that has a free 30 minute consultation. I'll probably go that way and see what he says.

I think it is too. For the price I paid for this car, it's absolutely worth it. Once I get the tune sorted and AC fixed, that's it for repairs. I'm only $850 in it so far. I got the car for $14500. All the parts alone are about $20k plus labor, on top of the price of the car.

On top of all that, PO found a bunch more paper work to send me. Lots of Haltech stuff.

 

These just went up for sale on the proper-case FB group near Memphis. Good price.

​

 

I should buy these honestly. My rears have something like 90k on them, but still settle the truck nicely. Fronts are probably 40k on factory TRD coils on the 4th notch. It’s not a smoking deal, but not bad for brand new kit.

 

I mean, 5100 full kit front/rear, fronts assembled with tophats/isolators you'd be out around $1k after ship on a regular sale. I think the cheapest I could find bitd was $850. Granted, I'd really want to look carefully at the assembly on them before installing.

 

Do it. I didn't realize you swapped the leaf springs but didn't do the shocks

 

The rear shocks aren’t bad as in they haven’t failed. But how much the performance from original has degraded? Hard to tell. They still feel great.

 

All 4 of my oem shocks were fine, but the front bushings had failed.

 

Not a Tundra, but on my jeep CJ7…
I bought the jeep when it had zero lift and 33x12.5 tires. I installed a 2.5” lift and 32x11.5 tires. To this date some 25 years laters, and looking back it was probably my favorite tire size for double duty wheelin’ and commuting. I then went from those 32” to 33” swampers. Then to a 35” bogger. But bigger tires means accelerated wear on EVERYTHING. So i had to swap out to larger axles, steering linkage/tie rods, and steering box. Then when i stepped up to 37” boggers i had to install bigger brakes at all four corners, hydraulic steering assist ram, even bigger axles, and more lift. Sure you can go more places with bigger tires, but where does it stop? I’m building another CJ7 in my shop where i plan to use a standard off the shelf 35” mud tire this time around. Big tires just kinda suck for real world dual sport driving. They cost a LOT, it’s hard on the steering components, the brakes aren’t up to snuff anymore, and it saps HP from the engine.

Oh, and to answer your question, most guys try to run 35” nowadays on pretty much anything that has four wheels. That’s just what’s popular with the fad. Going from 33” to 35” is a decent jump, but nowhere close to the 35” to 37” jump. FYI, a 185/6015 tire will get you through 90% of the back country discover route trails in the united states. So no need for a $150,000 glamped out toyota truck to over land, when you can go the exact same places with an old honda Accord wagon.

 

it’s a good thing i don’t have facebook

 

Gotta rebuild my back patio steps. Kinda thinking about building em out of cinder blocks (holes up) and filling em full of dirt & topping with grass. A 12' 4 stair rise would be 90 full size cinderblocks, and for the 'path' i could use those half thick cinderblocks & plant taller plants (flowers) in the cinderblock holes not covered by concrete. It wont have to last long, i figure i can afford to extend my patio in a couple years & set up my steps as 6'ers on both ends.

Apparently old folks dont watch where they're stepping, so this is a hazard. Who knew you grew out of situational awareness?

 

RockAuto Code: 274922126248238398
Your code expires on September 6, 2024, 12:00 Midnight CT

 

So 33s will do everything I intended them to do go it and not break my truck any faster than I'm going to. Got it

 

I'd go 2883 or 2884 on lowest clip and then if you don't have the lift you want, go up a clip.

 

Ah so this, so as someone who has recently had to deal with a spring fiasco and 5100 adjustables. I reached out to Bilstein and Bilstein straight up told me that their shocks the bodies the valvings the fluid all of it are calibrated to OEM non-TRD and/or TRD springs. So knowing that do what ya want

 

Please explain your fiasco. I'm thinking 2884 with the 5100s I already have installed with OEM springs. The truck wallows a bit in corners. So, I'm thinking the 21 year old springs are done. Are you/Bilstein suggesting I purchase new OEM springs to pair with the 5100s?

 

Anyone on the forum hear of any good labor day Toyota parts and shipping deals?

 

The national site and all participating locations had 25% off for labor day, pretty sure it ended on 8/26 though.

 

@Weagle did that recently, IIRC, and said it rode like absolute shit using a lifted spring one notch above lowest. Bump steer, stiff as hell, not fun.

 

In my experience with family, your DGAF goes way up as you get older, which may pose hazards if you DGAF where you're walking!