1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Yeah that shit makes it ride like ass. Like how do you fuck that up. But honestly I didn't see it till we were tearing into it, and Jon and Casey were like yeah that's definitely fucking wrong. It were also like and 18 pack deep as well

 

Shit man, while you got that tore apart break out the sander 120 grit wire wheels self etching primer and black paint and kill that rust.

Also I thought my rear shocks were bad.... Damn man. Good thing Toyota made these one stupid simple to work on.

 

Already got bils 5100s front and rear on deck. ALLLLL the rust is going bye bye. I wasnt too pleased with the rust reformer paint so i used up the can on the springs, Ill do POR15 on the frame, and probably the rear axle too.

 

POR15 is the shit, good stuff

 

I LOVE habaneros. best pepper for flavor IMO. My wife makes apricot or peach habanero jelly from the garden. I eat that stuff by the spoonful. The sweet balances the spice so well. She also makes a mean chili crisp oil, and has accidentally pepper sprayed the whole house multiple times, dumping peppers into hot oil. Her spice tolerance is through the roof though and nothing makes her sweat until the home grown ghost pepper/Carolina Reaper level. I'm comfortable with whole jalapenos and Thai chilis with no seeds/membrane, but I pussy out when it comes to the hard stuff lol

 

Get some of this for her:

https://heatonist.com/products/the-last-dab-apollo-hot-sauce



It's by far one of my favorite hot sauces, sitting around 3 million Scoville. I can munch on habeneros, I've done the Paqui one chip challenge twice, I've eaten reapers, but that sauce is where it's at. Tastes good and will knock your dick(tits) in the dirt. It's making my mouth water just thinking about it.

 

This happened when I bought my truck, bought it about 45 minutes away, title wasn't filled out right so I took the title back to the guy and got it taken care of only to find out it was still wrong and I had to drive back another time because he was working and couldn't meet me.

You said something about an oil leak and it got me thinking about this video from project farm the other day where he was working on a CRV and the block was cracked where the oil pressure sensor (I think, it's been a while) hole had a crack in it causing a major leak. LINK

Email them?

What all did you order from them?

 

Yes, especially when you get it on your skin and you're branded for 2 weeks with that fresh new POR-15 temporary tattoo that no amount of scrubbing will wash off

Stuff is great for what it does, but wear long sleeves and gloves.

When you guys are saying "wrinkles", are you talking about 'barking', the tan lines that run up and down some peppers? Seems like some varieties are more prone than others. Back when Google+ was a thing, I was a co-mod for the bigger ultrahots group. We had a lot of good convos on the topic. All that is lost to the wind though. I was allowed to export my stuff, but none of the threads where we chatted came with that.

What he said ^^

I'd also add, there's something to factor in with the bolt itself. Fastener stretch happens more readily with softer metals, and is what you want to avoid. I can tell you, the bolts I got from ICON in my AAL kit are beefier and longer than OEM, but my OEM bolts, by way of the arm scale, weighed more. I'm not sure what the difference in metal is between the two, but I'd feel pretty confident torquing down the OEM bolts a half a dozen times before replacing. The ICON u-bolts, I'd be reticent about doing the same more than twice.

Checked the outer door handles. And when looking with the door open, it looked like the actuator was physically not allowing the inside latch to throw the latch. It's possible one of the linkage arms was jacked, but it will periodically let you open the door.

I dunno. I'm kinda sad about it, but kinda not. I didn't realize how fucked the paint was on the vehicle. I also found where someone had it on a lift and apparently jacked it wrong, and it pushed up the driver's side fender. Found a front left quarter impact that buckled the fender. Lots of shit wrong with the car, overall. I was willing to work with it, if there was no other choice, but ... man. About the only thing that was "right" was the interior not being molested in any way. If I were to do it all over again though, I'd aim for an EX, or EX-L, just to get all the extra shit you wouldn't otherwise get in the LX.

Without stickers ... Damn thing looks almost like it's got a face, like it's a Cars movie character or something. Could be fun to play off that. Or make it into Spongebob Mowpants.

 

These are pretty cool. Not positive what size they are.

 

Point by point, paragraph to paragraph...

I saw the PF video and actually checked that before taking possession. Front of the block was clean, and I'm pretty sure that sender is on the front of the block? Somewhere near the knock sensor? Anyway, I looked all over the block, that's how I knew the starter was original. Really, the thing needs a new starter. It doesn't have that classic Honda start sound, and the starter sounds like it's physical labored, like a weak batt, but the batt tested out fine. Anyway ... not willing to deal with it. It's posturing up like a money pit. I need something better than that.

Too late on email, it shipped this AM, as they said it would. The seller actually wants to buy the parts off me and asked if I could help install. It'll be about 20-30 min a door. I told she and her husband I'd help, as a "thanks" for being cool about refunding all my cash. I already polished out the headlights to get them back to nice before returning, it was the first thing I did. I don't mind helping with the doors. I know they'll cover the parts. Give and take is important. I don't mind returning a cool stress-relieving effort with a cool stress-relieving effort. Hell, who knows. Maybe they'll offer the car again for $1k.

Crutchfield:

• Jensen CAR723W receiver
• Rockford Fosgate R1675-S speakers (FRONT)
• Rockford Fosgate R1675X2 speakers (REAR)

 

Found what looks like a wheel hub nut walking the dog today. I’m assuming the 450-500 is an indication of torque spec based on the FT LBS after. Threading according to my measure is metric, M22. Wonder what in the hell would use this? New paperweight for me.

​

 

Im wondering how the hell it fell off!

 

I find all kinds of crazy stuff on the sides of the road near my place. Lots of shipping/warehouse places near me, and they’re always cutting through our area. A nearby neighborhood had a bridge the new drivers would often sardine-can their trailers on when I first moved to the area. Even with tons of warnings, flashing lights, heights displayed etc. Those “NO TRUCKS” signs up and down the road.

 

I’m guessing that’s a bus or semi lug nut

 

Good price on a cool wheel. I've seen these before, very similar to the BBS 6-spoke 17s that came on our trucks. Can't recall where the hell I saw them. I don't believe they're OEM. And it may be I saw them on another truck. I can't recall. But they've been pictured on this forum before.

 

Seems the factory replacement options available are pretty much all sae grade 8/metric grade 10.9 3/8" u-bolts. Torquing everything to the capability of the threads is a sure way to get appropriate clamping force. I use Fastenal torque reference charts at work so Im comfortable tightening just to the limits of the screws without them yielding. I bet I could find or order 7/16" U's to really beef it up, a slight oversize is often stronger than trying to get hardened or higher grade hardware like AN grade stuff. Then drill out the holes on the plates 1/16th to accommodate.

 

Just remember two important points when using it. Always prep it first by using the degreaser but if you grind to new fresh metal before applying the POR-15, use the metal etch as well. My first application with just the degreaser before POR-15 application peeled off in the first two weeks on the bare metal areas.

 

Friends don't let friends use POR15

 

I'll look into that mastercoat

 

My habaneros were spicy

stamp 'back off, bumper humper' on it.

 

Same thing happened to me when i bought a used ktm 300. It was super low hour/mile craigslist bike, so i pounded on it immediately. I’m located up in NW oregon and made an impromptu 600 mile (one way) road trip. After talking with the seller on the phone, we came to a price and i told him i’d be there at 5:30 in the morning (friday). It was already 4pm thursday, so i had to immediately get in the road. Long story short, i got the bike, got the title, and everyone was happy.

Fast forward a few months later and i was on another 1000 mile roadtrip towards the vegas area. I decided to drive an additional 100 miles south to Bullhead City, Arizona. Reason being is that i was wanting to title, register, and get an arizona license plate for my oregon based ktm 300 (confusing, i know). I brought the title into the arizona DMV and they told me that the seller signed the title in the wrong box. My heart immediately sank. The lady told me that i need to find the seller and have him resign the title in the correct box. I replied, “well that going to be impossible since the seller is currently in Nevada….(then with some quick thinking i caught myself and added) BUT…i think i can catch him before he leaves town today. I’ll be back in about an hour.” I quickly drove over to an art supply store and bought some tracing paper and ink pens. I’ll let you guys do the math on what happened next. But an hour later i had my Arizona title in my hands. Seems like all auto/moto titles are written purposefully like that just to confuse the layman.

 

Hell yeah, Rustoleum came thru in clutch on adhesion. Basically reflects my experience with using their black satin on other frames in the past.

 

Meh, my real world use of rustoleum is
compared to POR-15.

The peel test isn’t even a realistic scenario and he doesn’t understand it bonds much better to cleaned up rust with an irregular surface than a flat panel. Also, you want to use TWO coats of POR-15 (because you’ll always miss a few spots). That’s probably why the topcoat did so well. Just my two cents.

However, the Mastercoat does look interesting.

 

To be fair, he did do the test where he applied it directly to rust. But the double-coat is another story.

The one thing that he glosses over in the video is this: Toward the end, the "guy who had a project with POR15 that held up for 10 years", there's a massive oversight here that is obvious in the other tests also. That one thing is simple, environment. Anything I've POR'd here in GA, in TX, or FL could very well last with no issues up to 10 years. But that same product in New England may suffer worse than those 10 years of SE USA driving over the course of a single winter, depending on how many road miles you put on it, in those environments.

To that point, all of these tests are subjective. But I do agree with his outcome. A multi-product approach, while not ideal for the pocketbook, is probably best. That means taking one of the top three primer-like products, laying a good corrosion resist product over it from the top three tested, then topcoating it with really any of the worthwhile topcoats.

But all-said, to put in context, I've used regular (i.e. non-oil-base I believe) Satin Rustoleum in the can to the semi-rusty skid plate @baraynavab gave me like ... two, three years ago now? maybe four? ... after fulling cleaning it out. It's been sitting outdoors, behind my house, in the elements, leaning against a wall, for all that time after I hit it with Rustoleum rattle can satin black. There is zero rust on it right now. None.

My reality here in the south is, Rustoleum is a killer product for rust resistance and requires only minor cleaning of the product if it's beyond surface rust (i.e. 220 grit paper), then spray on. If there's only the starts of rust, like orange powder, all I need to use is a basic oil remover & panel prep and spray it. But I've gone so far as to simply Windex a panel, wait for it to dry, and apply Rustoleum and it just does not rust. It's a genuinely good product. But it'd never hold up in Boston.

 

I’m sure Rustoleum is a good product in the South but it just doesn’t hold up around here against brine unfortunately and I speak from experience.

 

Totally, and you've summarized my many sentences of text in a single line.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/why...tundra-owners-in-the-3rd-gen-sections.146028/

I don't know how to link to a specific post, but check #20 in that thread

 

Big Chungus still getting work. They're having problems with the tensioner. It's an AC Delco unit for some reason, but they can't find it. They're gonna holler at the Procharger rep today. Then work on the tune. I wanna drive it!

They have a T4R there too. They always have cool shit.

 

..... You're On a Mission. From God.

I'd love that Datsun.

​