1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I am in the market for a family hauler, can you guys help me track down 1st gen Sequoia links within 200 miles of Paducah ky?

 

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...dius=200&state=KY&zip=42002&clickType=listing

 

Driver Inside door handle cracked. I'm looking at OEM replacements. Looks like part no is #69206-0C030 from toyota. There are three color options:

-BO: Md Charcoal
-EO: Md Oak
-B1: Md Gray

My VIN sticker on the door says 1E3/FN11. I always just thought the options were light gray and tan. My truck is the light gray. But FN11 on yotatech says light charcoal. WTF? Just trying not to buy the wrong thing.

 

Update on my brake situation:

I bled everything like four more times and pulled on the parking brake cable until I couldn’t hear the adjusters. The brakes now work, but only for the last 15% of the pedal throw.

Stops from 30mph at full braking capacity take 50 or 60 feet. Still nowhere near acceptable. Still just feels like a shit ton of air in the system.

Edit: “full braking capacity” means that I can feel the MC bottoming out.

 

Check your rears again, should be a slight drag

 

Rears are assembled and adjusted correctly. By pulling on the cable I simulated using the parking brake to get them to adjust.

I just can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong.

 

The “self adjusters” are notorious for not actually working, you need to pull the inspection plug and manually adjust the star wheels.
I had a lot of pedal travel, and put 10-15 clicks on each drum, pedal travel improved as well as braking

 

The only time i was bested when trying to bleed brakes on one of my vehicles, was when the 2 year old brake lines (that came with the Warn lift kit) actually blistered when applying the brakes. It took two people to figure it out..one person to apply the brakes, and a second to look at the rubber hoes.

 

This happened on my other car- the brake hoses just got so dry rotted with age they wouldn’t hold pressure.

I’d be skeptical of something similar with my truck except that nearly everything is new.

 

I don't know if it matter which you order, Toyota isn't making our many 1st gen interior parts like door handles in painted options anymore. Everything anyone I've seen has ordered in recent months has been beige. That includes interior door handles, access cab door leverl/locks, and misc other trim parts. It happened to me most recently when ordering replacement access cab wing window latches. Thankfully, I was able to move my latch covers over, and NickB over in KY needed some beige ones, so I shipped him the complete leftovers.

I ordered similar for my access cab on the interior pull handles, and my part numbers were...

69205-0C010-B2 (Passgr front door handle, dk grey)
69206-0C010-B2 (Driver front door handle, dk grey)

It was ultimately these parts, is that what you're looking for?:

​

 

I’m nearly positive the adjusters are working. I mean, I can hear them, feel them working, and the drums got a whole lot tighter after I clicked them a bunch of times.

I’m just so confused as to why it builds pressure at 80%ish of the pedal travel. It feels fairly firm once it engages, which reinforces that there isn’t any air in the lines.

My first thought is that the pedal needs to be adjusted but that wouldn’t work as it bottoms out the MC.

 

There is a spec on the total shoe diameter in the FSM to have adjusted out to if you have a large caliper. Are you adjusting both of the rears until they drag a little when you spin the hub on the axle with no wheel on either side after stepping on brakes (with drums on) to center?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NFcFMmzZ7y4

 

I was going to say that too, but wasn't sure! The nice thing is the limbs/sticks are typically perfect for smoking with!

 

Is it able to be saved??

 

Ultragauge vs scangauge. Anyone have first hand pros and cons? Really want to install something to monitor.

EDIT** have multiple devices connected so phone/tablet is out of question I already have the OBD torque app with a WiFi obdii reader. I just don’t want to disconnect my wireless Apple CarPlay to access it.

 

I did that process initially, and then I pulled each of the parking brake bellcranks until they would no longer click.

I’m not super concerned with getting the rear drums to be perfectly adjusted right now. They’ve got to be pretty good, they’re definitely adjusted better than they were before I started all this brake work.I really need to figure out why the overall braking is so poor.

 

So Cali is on the news for producing too much electricity from personal solar panels during the day and the power lines can’t handle it so what do they do? Discard it; unbelievable.

Governor wants to invest in batteries to store it.

Update the lines and sell it out of state! Why is this a problem? Don’t they have enough forest fires from damaged decrepit power lines?

 

Overall braking is largely dependent on your rear brakes being properly adjusted. When you push the pedal, the initial force compresses the rears, which then feeds the pressure to the front. Adjust the rears first. Can’t stress that enough.

 

I’m really really picky about interior looks, and I have a stock head unit, so I chose scangauge. I 3D printed a mount that replaces the ashtray with a spot for one. It looks nice and fits nice, and I can change the backlight color to green and match the gauge lights. In terms of functionality, really no complaints at all with it. I’m not sure where I found them, but I got the codes to read trans temp, which is mostly why I wanted it.

Photo: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-limited-trd-refresh-repair-story.116395/page-10#post-3377959

The Ultragauge does look a bit nicer, especially if you’ve got a head unit with a screen. Iirc you can also monitor more things at once, which is nice. But other than that, I think they’re fairly similar.

 

If he replaced his master cylinder and his brakes were fine before, why would the rear be the issue? Maybe I missed something. Seems like I'd retrace my steps related to the actual brake work done.

Does the truck have ABS? Any chance air got in those lines during the work? Might need to try and burp the ABS system on some gravel.

 

Everything except for the wheel cylinders were replaced, so it needed to be readjusted. But trust me, the rears are close enough. Just having a functional parking brake bellcrank makes it worlds better than before. Even if the rears were adjusted very poorly, it would never hinder braking performance as much as I am experiencing. The truck is nowhere near safe to drive on the street.

My truck doesn’t have ABS (which is odd for a truck with every other option, right?), and I’ve bled everything at least a dozen times. I’d really be quite surprised if there was any air in the lines.

It just feels like the MC doesn’t start pushing fluid until you get to like 3/4 of the pedal travel. Which can’t be right.

 

Sorry if you already answered these questions. I didn't read every post. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder and did you bleed the prop valve?

When you say you've already adjusted the rear brakes, have you jacked the truck up and spun the rear tires to see how much the shoes are dragging?

Any chance your new master cylinder is a dud out of the box?

 

My interior is pretty busy so the plan is to mount this directly in front of me on the steering column. I’ve got all the OCD4WD goodies so I’d like to keep all the monitors where they already are in the gauge cluster.

 

I’m not trying to harp on you about the rears, but they are critical to the entire braking system.
A few ways to check, like the Czar mentioned jacking it up and spinning the wheel and listen/feel for drag, or pulling the wheel and if you can pull the drum with ease, your no where close

 

I purchased a new-used OEM master cylinder as well as a brand new aftermarket one, both were bench bled. The LSPV was also bled in the correct order.

I doubted that the used OEM MC was good but since the brand new one that replaced it is doing the same thing, I’d be surprised if they were both bad.

With the rear tires in the air, they stop after about a rotation, two at the most. I can hear them dragging and I definitely wouldn’t be able to pull off the drum with just my fingers. To me, they’re almost adjusted a bit too tight, but that would only make the overall braking feel better, right?

 

So I went back to find this post. I had a a hardline off the passenger front caliper shit the bed on me over a drip. Swapped it out and bled it at the hardline not the bleeder. Brake pedal for whatever weird reason grabs way better than before. I did some stuff that required an extended rear brake line and I had the shittiest pedal feel. Did in order as you mentioned, but went back and just bled the shit out of the LSPV. Probably 8-10x with the two person method. That helped me get pedal back after bleeding a bunch the proper way. Still didn’t feel as good as when I bled it at the hardline on the caliper. No idea how or why but might be worth a shot cause you don’t have anything to lose.

 

Kinda on topic: I want to thank @455h0le_dachshund and @AmericanKing06 and others for the below for the Scangauge II ATF temp. I was one digit off and thought I would never get ATF!

00-04 Transmission Temperature (Degrees F)
TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8
NAM: ATF

 

Anyone use OBD fusion with their FGT?

 

Sorry if I missed this in the various messages, but IIRC you mention replacing everything but calipers and wheel cylinders, so assuming drums, rotors, pad, shoes, and master cylinder...but not hard or soft lines, proportioning valve, etc?

So, what was your situation to start with? Did you have working brakes to begin with or are working on a truck that didn't have working brakes, perhaps from sitting a long time and so you replaced the master cylinder thinking it was bad and still don't have working brakes and maybe your soft lines were rotted and expanding?

 

Yeah that’s the part. The actual handle plastic cracked. But my interior is lighter gray than that. Like this. I think I may go for this non oem and see how it looks. At least the name of this matches the fn11 as listed on yotatech. In the end I guess it’s just $25 I’m risking.