1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I heard a lot of good things about ADS but the local shock rebuilder said kings are the way to go for serviceability

 

KING BLING!

 

I've still got 6112's with Billy coils, unassembled, sitting in a box. I wonder how they'd stack up in that vid. I didn't watch the video, so dunno if they tested them, or just the 5100s.

There's a special way to grip the burrito that makes it super easy. After seeing how they two-hand hold the burrito at big-burrito shops, I finally got the hang of it. Softening the tortilla by steaming it (or toss in the nukebox for 12-15s) helps.

 

Would serviceability be something I need to worry about? It's not my daily. Maybe 4k miles a year with about 1k of that for T2S. I would like to start making a few runs a year at Merus as well. I'm not sure how long aftermarket shocks last.

 

Exactly this.

 

When you're paying $2k-$4k for something versus $500, yeah, I guess you'd want something you're paying up to 4x-8x as much to be rebuildable.

For sheer longevity's sake, you'll get more out of the $500 item, and you can buy at least 4 pair for the same price ... uh ...

But cheaper item may not suit your needs or flexibility, so ....

 

I was looking at the rebuild interval. 30k to 50k miles. That's 10 years for me.

My needs? I dunno man, I just wanna keep up with @des2mtn and @alb1k on the back roads if we make it to Parker again. I wanna be able to do some decent crawling at Sedona or Merus. Watching the guys run the "go fast friday" race was awesome, and I'd like to participate one day. I'm planning on an *almost* full suspension rebuild late this year or early next year.

 

just buy the Solo Long travel kit and give a big "fuck you" to everybody lol

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/su...ia/long-travel-suspension-kit-tundra-sequoia/

 

I was planning on about $5k, not $25k

 

Solo LCAs, Kings with reservoirs front and rear, SPC UCAs, Wheeler's Superbumps, Total Chaos spindle gussets, steel braided brake lines, Deaver SUA leafs, relocate the rear shocks

 

I was hot and heavy for a pair of used King coilovers about a year ago. The craigslist seller wanted $1200 for them. I called one of my buddies and asked what he thought. He more or less had a heart to heart with me, and told me to just go after the 5100’s. So at some point i’ll look into the Bilsteins. I’d like to get a winch and bumper first though.

 

Yeah that used pair was a rip off. I bought mine new for $1200 on Black Friday a few years ago.

 

I said that wrong...it was $1200 for a pair of Kings’s AND a pair of Total Chaos upper control arms.

 

Very true! I’ve got a machinist buddy that’s told me what they do for our trucks is a drop in the bucket compared to some 5”+ shocks they make for trophy trucks, supposedly their shop would make you wet…….
The rebuild guy is a Sedona guy(LK) and he said king over Ads, I trust him

 

I'm looking for the codes for the scan gauge 2? I have an 04. Yes I searched, I cant seem to find it. What other parameters are you viewing with the scan gauge?

 

Can anyone conform if this is the correct scangauge code for an 04 model. I found it on another forum.

 

Tundra could totally pull it

 

So I’ve been thinking about this as I have the outer shroud of my gauges out.

I’ve replaced my parking lights and gear indicators. All with led. Happy with those.

I’m a little tempted to maybe do turn signals too. Contemplating.

The rest all seem like I may leave halogen. Saves me time figuring out polarity. And what’s the difference anyway, those lights are supposed to be off most of the time unless something bad is happening? Maybe high beams is worth doing. I don’t think there is a cruise control light but maybe that too.

the rest, is there a point to doing them?

 

You're looking for the x-gauges, I assume to program things like transmission fluid temp?

 

Yes that is correct. What other parameters would you recommend to watch?

 

If you convert the turn signal indicators on the clusters to LEDS you will want to coat the top led with something you can't see through. I used JB weld like so.

There is a cruise light, as you can see on my link

 

00-04 Transmission Temperature (Degrees F)
TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8
NAM: ATF

Yep, it's correct. But I prefer to name it ATF myself.

Also...

05-06 Transmission Temperature (Degrees F)
TXD: 07E021D9
RXF: 032100000000
RXD: 1808
MTH: 00090005FFD8
NAM: ATF

 

I like to monitor trans temp, intake air temp, coolant temp and avg mpg

 

Great! Thanks for the help! Just waiting for the mount I found on etsy on top of the steering column cover

 

So, sorry to be obtuse, but, why swap to LED at all for those if it also required jbweld on emitters? That seems like a lot of work and you’d have to repeat it if any died, yes?

My thinking is that, if a handful of T5’s can’t be LED (battery, fuel, airbag) then why do any T5’s at all, other than the backlight / parking light ones? Seems like headache for no gain. Most would be routinely off. Just cruise, turns and high beams on once in a while.

 

I did them because I was in there, and was replacing a failed backlight bulb.

I didn't want to open that up EVER again at the time so I did as many LEDs as possible.

The leds I chose were just way too bright, and were causing "hot spots" on the light filter of the cluster with nekkid eyelids.

They were too bright because they had an emitter on top, which shown directly through the light filter and into my nekkid orbitals. It was fine during the day, but I was and still am a night shifter. They were way too hopped up for night time driving at the full lumens

If you could find an led that doesn't emit directly UP that'd be perfect



I need you to think about how the light leaves an incandescent bulb. It emits 360° around the bulb. Which means that MOST of the light you see is a reflection from the instrument cluster. An SMD only emits light at maybe 130° which is why there were three SMDs on those leds

I was trying to recreate that with the leds and I succeeded

 

I've thought extensively about all this, as much I think as you have.

My question is, why do any T5's at all? Why? What gain? If the bulb replacement is painful (I highly agree) and getting polarity correct requires testing (unless someone identifies + and - for each bulb and someone finds LED's with marked polarity) then the LOE to ROI seems to fall off substantially after doing the backlight bulbs (three T10's and one T5 IIRC) and the drive indicators (which I think are the most important ones, though D is really the one that will see the most runtime, but if replacing one, it makes a ton of sense to do all so they look the same throughout the gears).

You haven't really answered that, you're talking about the reason for modifying the LED bulbs which I fully understand. My question is, why go through all that headache vs just using halogen/incandescent if a bulb does fail, and keeping halogens for all T5's so they "look" good / normal / factory?

The fog light bulb is one I might look at, though I think my long term plan, since I have dual fog spots, is to just go switch-pros there and save my two ovals for more important things.