1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Chrysler and good resale. Two words never used before in he same sentence.
But if you got it for like hundo, I guess I see what you mean haha

 

Anybody here running spindle gussets?
I'm going to be removing my spindles to get total chaos gussets welded on and new bearings pressed in next week.
While I've got everything apart I'm also going to do my LBJs and tie rods.
#oemordie

 

I think I have the metal pieces but Jason never got to that. Or the shock mount buckets. But I’d have to look more closely to confirm. I know I have quite a few spare parts which never got installed. Still haven’t done my compressor and air tank.

 

Wonger has a sweet truck. He's a member here but hasn't posted in a long time.


https://youtu.be/dE_LiLHPNNE?si=D5kvBGng7lSCoBN1

 

Are you planning to introduce it to any deer?

 

I can't recall, maybe it was @alb1k ?

What he said ^^

You may want to consider moving to a manual PV, like the Wilwood one. It'll let you ditch the linkage, and have better control over your braking.

But here's where the clip fastener is supposed to snap-in, behind the lens. Did you break yours off by accident? I think the clip is physically in the roof above where this sits.

​

 

That’s just a pic I took from eBay. I’ve been searching around for just that sort of info. Thanks.

It’s probably not critical if that breaks considering the hooks in the back. I’m more worried about breaking a lens.

 

I've popped my lenses off a couple dozen times now. No worry there. They're pretty rigid IMHO. Trick is to spudge with a plastic tool at the hinge spot. I pointed it out in my last post.

Think about it practically: Why would Toyota make those weak, knowing halogens were originally installed there, so the owner would need to pop the lenses on/off several times over the course of a lifetime? I think they made them extra-beefy in preparation.

I'm still shocked at how things are 5x brighter without the metal shields.

 

No, but I’m about to. What wheel bearings? OEM the move here?

These guys have a new design in collaboration with another well known prerunner 1G guy. If you go with the TC ones they work well from my personal experience.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1vfmQ7LbAD/?igsh=MTR3aDliOXVrZno5

 

When I looked up for someone else in the last 48 hours, if memory serves, Koyo was OEM on wheel bearings.

 

Not currently, gotta fix an oil leak somewheres, and change the heater core

 

So, pop metal shields for map lights, general consensus is yes?

and manual prop valve, more split jury? Or everyone who has done it has no regrets? I am thinking bleeding brakes is the big hassle so if it ain’t broke don’t fix it?

 

Yeah I've got the OEM bearings/ seals and TC gussets waiting to be installed.

 

The proportioning valve and automagicly adjusting brake bias is damn cool, but if it ever starts causing grief ill swap it for the wildwood unit in a heartbeat. Every other car and truck I have ever owned was fixed bias and it just plain works.

I think the guys that can really benefit from the swap are 2"+ lifted and lightly loaded most of the time. Extending the bracket or the I bolt mod seems to give good results too.

 

What would I look for in terms of symptoms? I’m probably 2” of lift and 5500 lbs. I don’t have complaints about the brakes though and Jason spent a ton of time bleeding them. I’m on 13WL’s and fresh everything, drums, rotors, calipers, ebc, drum innards, etc.

 

In my case, my brakes get better or worse depending on weight in the bed. It's supposed to sense those changes and adjust accordingly. I have it fairly dialed in right now so I'm afraid to mess with it. But that manual prop valve is probably something I'll eventually get.

 

And for that use case, the manual prop valve would be a solution or an easy way to adjust for loaded vs unloaded? I’m assuming an easier way to adjust so requires some tinkering / experience to know how to adjust?

 

I don't understand why one would buy these over OEM. Am I missing something? $1,000 for a pair seems insane compared to OEM. Whats the benefit? On top of the price, these guys say these parts are only good if you have a lift.

 

the front/rear brakes have a theoretical sweet spot in terms of maximum stopping power. Too much front bias and the rears aren't contributing much resulting in longer stopping distance , and too little front bias is the just the opposite with the added fun of a really unstable feeling while braking. If you are happy with your brake performance I wouldn't worry about it. Some people will report reduced pad/rotor-or-shoe/drum life depending on which way the bias is. Kind of an unfair comparison between disc brakes and drums though.

Here is a post that clearly shows an extend valve bracket and what direction to adjust things if you want to do a little testing.

 

Just because of how i perceive his name.

@khooiii

 

If you have LED, then YES. You probably saw you got about half as much light after upgrading to LED. If you have LED and pop that shield, you easily get double or triple over OEM. Like, I can actually see inside the truck now those little shits are out.

I think it's an important maintenance item. No amount of 'ranger' style fluid change will cycle out the crap that gets stuck in the end of the lines, what's inside the calipers. You need to bleed every couple of years.

 

You don’t think reverse bleeding would get rid of that?

 

Reverse bleeding is a big no-no on modern vehicles, at least any vehicle with ABS. You don't want any of the shit settled into the caliper ends of the line getting jammed up in the ABS block.

I can't recommend anyone ever reverse-bleed one of our trucks unless it's non-ABS. Furthermore, I wouldn't do it only because any shit that gets pushed back up to the MC rez is going to be goddamn difficult to suck out.

 

Actually, @Darkness was doing it with his vehicle. I can’t comment on whether he had ABS or not.

 

Yeah and Empty Lord said they reverse bleed at work I believe. I bought one but it sucked.

 

All you need is a jumbo syringe and some tubing. Just make sure the syringe is dry, b/c brake fluid is hygroscopic.

IMO, brake lines are akin to water sprinkler lines in commercial buildings. If you've ever had one open on you, you know they spray out nasty smelling black shit when they open up, stuff settles at the end of the line and stagnates, unless you purge them once in a while. Brakes are a somewhat similar system, the main difference on brakes being you get some fluid movement in a hydraulic system, but that settling still happens, calipers are the lowest point on the system, it's the same stuff that helps pistons sieze up, etc. (although water in fluid can cause rust in the piston too).

Y'all do you, it's your prerogative, I'm not judging. I'm not saying anyone is wrong for doing it, it's just a big no-no in shifty's world, which doesn't always jibe with everyone else's and that's cool. I won't personally do it on an ABS vehicle, and that's ultimately why. You're never going to get all the fluid and settlement out during a bleed, including what's in the pistons, but ...

You don't gotta do it my way, that's just why I don't personally do it and don't want people doing it in my vehicles.

 

I let other people do the bleeding things. Not a fan of fluid beyond bubbly beverages

 

One of the few spray it on and rinse it off things that actually worked. Acid washed the pontoons today. Wow. Mpressive!

 

Fun fact, over time, air compressed in fire sprinkler lines dissolves but turns into a bacteria that actually eats away the pipe from the inside. I can only assume we have air bleeders on our builds at work?

but when heads “just go off” at work…….. Lordy Lordy it makes a mess by time anyone with a clue gets there to shut down the system. I’d say we have at least 5-8 heads go off a year between the 25+ buildings. I get to do yearly fire sprinkler inspections, so at least I know were main shut offs are and most of the sectionals