1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Nah, it's definitely my truck. Happens at most pumps. No clue how to remedy it.

 

Yeah I was going to ask if he used the same pump every time. But I've had some vehicles that have required a precise amount of insertion to fuel w/o kicking off... (There's a joke there, and I'm walking away)

 

Google says the most common cause is an issue with the EVAP system. I can't recall what our trucks actually have in regards to that?

 

The titan's fuel tank vent needs work. It fills up fine if i fill it before i get down to 1/4 tank. But below 1/4 tank i have to throttle the gas pump nozzle as slow as possible and let it rest when i hear the fill neck start to fill.

 

See if the vent line is obstructed?

 

Mine doesn't cut off just before the tank fills, but pretty much any "California Style" gas pump requires me to hold the nozzle and keep pressure on it otherwise it shuts off almost immediately. Sometimes if I push the nozzle in and rotate the nozzle to the right it will pump for a few gallons, but not the whole tank. My truck has always been like this and I've run into other owners in person with the same issue.

Most pumps on the Indian Reservations, or in AZ/UT/NV don't have this issue and I can pump a whole tank without it cutting off.

These are the nozzles that give me issues:



These ones are fine:

 

Sounds like the same issue I'm having. I've had this issue since I bought the truck a few years back now. Except it's the second nozzle giving me issues. I haven't seen the first nozzle here

 

I stepped on the scale this morning, as I do every Saturday, and found that I’m down 40 pounds from Dec!

 

Great side affect huh?

 

Mine is an 03 as well. It’ll click within the first 5 seconds.

 

I know it’s Jeep blasphemy, but the 4.0 was pretty good. The pentastar 3.6 runs circles around it. Way better as a daily. I’ve got one with 165k on it. Other than some minor oil leaks with the oil cooler it’s been 100%.

 

What if you keep it under 2krpm?

 

Learn from @shifty` and just buy what you want the first time. They cost more, but it's cheaper.

 

My Pius does this sometimes. It seems to be a combination of the car having an attitude that day & a particular pump. I guess some pumps spray differently from other pumps. Sometimes I get around it by rotating the nozzle to point to a different side of the fill neck, sometimes there's no appeasing the ethos & finish filling at a different pump on a different day.

 

Yup. Still kicking myself. Thankfully, if I can sell the 5th one (new in box!) off for about $180, I'll only be down about $300. Thing that sucks about this is, if I had that extra $300, I could've had a full size spare of the gold Methods

@455h0le_dachshund buy once, cry once. Get what you want, it's worth it.

 

Always go to instagram and look for deals

on sale direct from kansei!
https://kanseiwheels.com/products/kansei-roku-truck-black

 

that's awesome. Really puts the whole "empty calories" idea into perspective.

 

Funny. I’ve never suffered from premature pump cut off.

 

I had a second HVAC company come out. I have a pretty significant leak on the inside coil and a very minor leak outside. Best case, both are still covered on the 10 year warranty and I'm still out several thousand for labor. But then I'm putting old and new parts together. Don't love that.

Seems like it might make more sense to replace the entire system except the furnace. He inspected the furnace and said everything looked great.

Would you all want a system with mix of new and 8 year old parts? Tough call.

@shifty` was right about the first company. I'll tell them to piss off.

 

I'd still go with the coil swap. It's not gonna hurt the old equipment. If under warranty, you'll pay full labor, I wouldn't expect more than $1750 - $2,500 range total. But I also don't work in HVAC and I'm not familiar with your area. If you can make it another 8-10 years on these replacements, you'll be due for new units anyway (~20yrs)

 

Before COVID I'm assuming those were the prices. Unfortunately in this time of greed I think it will be a lot more. And keep in mind I'm paying labor to replace both coils. I'll get a few different estimates.

 

Well in the 4.0L defence it was originaly designed as a tractor motor for International, I think, and they rejected it. The coolant passages and narrow jackets were always the problem with them. It was never designed to be a stop and go engine. The later and end year engines were a bit better, but it was never really a sorted issue. Best thing you can do for those is dual coolant fans, HD coolant pump, a double or tripple core radiator and an enlaged external oil heat exchanger. It, like the VR6 and VR5, are niche engines, more geared towards the enthusiast. We all know how the normies fail to care for their daily drivers. Thats what realy killed it off, "too problematic" for your everyday driver. But if you know how to care for them they're a hell of an engine.

 

I think I'm being cautiously optimistic. Labor rates havent' changed as much as goods have. I haven't seen as much change in labor rates, and wages have been stagnant for decades.

 

I hope that you're right.

 

Dang, they don't have any for our trucks on sale in the drop down menu. $100 off per wheel would be nice

 

To hell with that grab 4runner specs and send it.

 

No, they don't have anything in 6-139.7 on sale...
I'd be paying the same price at DT and I can use my DT credit card for 9months no interest

 

Twin stick rock crawler jeep on 37” tires? 4.0 HO all day. Daily? 3.6 Pentastar with a ZF 8 speed for the win.

 

Congrats dude!
I'm down 81 lbs since Aug

 

I believe there's also some stroker kits for the 4.0 and beefy rebuild kits