1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I mean, it's almost heaven ... Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River. Life is old there, older than the trees. Younger than the mountains, growin' like a breeze.

 

it’ll be something like these 2. Simple but effective.

 

I did more digging this morning in the Toyota system and I still can't find anything for the 00/01 models. The earliest that I have seen is for 02+.

 

I don't believe toyota has ever recalled the 00/01 year ball joints, even though they're prone to the same failures as the 02-06.

 

Most of this fell in about 2hrs, but a pretty good 3hr total

 

'blowing'

 

My 2000 had original LBJs until a couple years ago and the dealer never touched it. I have no open recalls so I think you are right about 00/01 not getting recalled.

 

Huh. I am, apparently, at least according to the top internet results, wrong. I played this years ago, have sheet music showing it is "blowing" . The grammar was clear, it all referred to the word "life" in West Virginia. Life passing, conveyed by 'blowing' not by 'growing'.

edit: F'ing auto correct has limited vocabulary.

 

As a New Englander, even I’m thankful for not living in that area. The only place that’s worse is Buffalo with both regular and lake effect snow.

 

Yeah, I'm good with it, I get to stretch my girls (4×4) legs! It is a shit show out there though.
That lake affect machine kicked some ass today. Those snowmobilers are loving this!

 

Fun fact (only because I'm familiar with the region) while Buffalo is famous for large individual snow storms the surrounding area typically gets more snow.

Like Buffalo gets 80 inches at once but over the winter Rochester, Syracuse, Erie, actually end up with higher total snow during the winter season.

It varies year to year though because of the lake effect.

 

That an oil cooler on the bottom pic?

 

@assassin10000 and anyone else considering lowering their FGT...

I cannot accurately express in words, the smiles per gallon I get while Hooning around in my lowered FGT with stiff suspension and questionably effective OEM LSD.

If you're 2wd and considering the SOS drop kit, buy the whole kit, get you some 4600's or 5100's for the front, but definitely get 5100's for the rear and an AAL. The axle flip will mostly cancel out any lift effects. I got the 2/3.5 kit (the 2/4 kit comes with two 0.5" blocks) and the AALs and 5100's lifted the rear about 2 inches. I have a 1 inch block I may lower the rear with soonish, but I suspect it will settle on its own in a other week or so.

But the fun results can only be experienced.
I cannot wait to find some 4.10's, upgrade to a TruTrac LSD, and get a PowerThirst tune.

Truck currently has 350k miles, DD 12holes, JBA LTs, TRD duals, TRD sway bars FR/RR, OEM LSD, and is generally well maintained.
You couldn't wipe the smile off my face with a mop!

 

I THINK it’s for the P/S?

 

Interesting. My trucks have this cooling loop for PS, but Casey's 02 does not have one.

 

That's my guess too.

 

Based on the towing package.

 

Makes sense. He doesn't have the 7 pin, he has 4

 

In from buffalo, well Orchard Park, but same same. The worst I can ever recall is 84 inches in like nkt even 48 hours. When the sniw machine, lake Erie, is angry, shes just dumps snow.

 

Yeah it's definitely a sight when the lake gets mad.

I remember Buffalo getting absolutely hammered about 10 years ago. Worst I've seen here in Erie was like 5ft about 5 years ago that fell Christmas Eve through Christmas Day.

That one was wild because the city got hit with all of it but 20 miles south I only had 6 inches on the ground.

 

The 00 and 01 are prone to the same design flaw, but not the manufacturing defect potentially present on the 02s and 03s (the aforementioned scratching, or imperfect finish of the ball). All FGTs have poorly designed ball joints, but there was never a recall based on the poor design, only the manufacturing defect found on later models.

 

Yeah, I don’t think so…

 

Ford ranap-tor. Ford range-raptor. Ford Ran-gap-tor. Drop a V8 in it and then it could be the ford BRAAPPPTOR

 

I’m gonna check it out in their showroom come Sunday since I’ll be in the same area for a party. It’s obvious they’re asking $10k over MSRP.

 

Question for anyone that knows:

The wife's car is slipping. (CVT Trans) I've looked into servicing it, but I don't have the time, or the drive. Looking at trading in for something we actually like while the car is still "meh" drivable. We still owe on the car.

My question to you guys is, How does that work? Trading in? Does the dealership pay off the previous note, and then roll that balance onto the new note? Do they eat that?
Obviously, I'd put her and my babies in a Toyota.

I'm brand new to "new" cars. I was looking at a 98 Camry, but that deal fell through.

 

My brother just traded on his 3 year old Corolla 6 months ago for a new Subie since he gets a good stipend from work and can buy a new one every few years.

I can’t answer your finance question since I’ve only paid cash for used or new vehicles.

 

I'd steer clear of new cars unless you can get it paid off before owing any interest.

 

I don’t think I could ever buy a new car, like off the lot. Ever. There’s too many good deals for used cars/trucks everywhere and let’s face it. It’s starting to become REALLY true “they don’t mak’em like they used to”

 

CVTs are the devils abomination. User serviceability is pretty low on them. Trade before it grenades. Or sell it. When trading it in, they will give you a “value” for it. It’s BS. You owe $5k and they give you $5k. Essentially they will just send the finance company a check and pay it off. Then take the car. If the numbers don't match, you owe $5k and they give you $3k, you still owe $2k. This is called “negative equity”. They can “roll it over” into the next vehicle. Usually a bad plan. Or they can give you $7k and you have $2k to put towards the next vehicle. Seems like easy math, but the dealer will combine all variables such as the car your buying price into a blender to spit out a total that doesn’t make any sense, but you get the payment you were wanting. People just sign and feel happy until they read what they’ve done. Like paying $30k for a car that’s worth $20k and having to make payments for the next 7 years. Get a quote from Carvana or carmax for outright purchase of your used car so you at least have a baseline to work with. Then armed with that, find your next car and negotiate a price on that WITHOUT telling the dealer about your trade in. After the deal is pretty solid, then inquire about possibly trading in your car. You’ll already know what the new one is actually gonna cost you, so they can only tell you what they will really give you for the car now and the shell game is ruined for them.