1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

These zerks are brand new. I’m thinking there is an issue with them. I will actually look at them closer. I’ve got a pack of them somewhere so I’ll try to swap them out. If still not working, new gun nozzle.

 

I currently have two different sets of beadlocks (on two different CJ7s. OMF and TrailReady). I haven’t noticed any weird stuff from them. I suppose one of these years i’ll have to go back and check the torque on the ring bolts.

 

My buddy in the hill country runs beadlocks and 37's on his FJC. He drives it on the street. I know @Mr.bee talked to em about it the last time we saw em at Hidden Falls.

 

I wonder if you can (on the bench) apply finger resistance and stop the flow, make it come out around the grease gun.
Last bunch of grease zerks I bought were from an ACE hdw and were stainless... mmmm nice.

 

This thing will open it back up if it’s clogged.

 

I Haven’t tried this but it looks interesting…

https://youtu.be/OExN2vzO3VU?feature=shared

 

It doesn’t fit every scenario, but I have a ‘lock-n-lube’ end on one of my grease guns and it’s great, you know it’s on right and won’t pop off. It’s way easier to use, just can’t fit everywhere a normal tip does. Not that that sounds like your problem, just a recommendation.

 

The vintage tips I use lock on naturally. I have a lock-n-lube but haven't installed it. It looks really convenient. I need to rebuild one of my decades-old Craftsman grease guns totally in the near future. I was hoping to find a video showing a breakdown of how to rebuild, just so I could see the guts before getting in.

 

Why is it Nokian can make retractable studs for their tires yet I see no footwear with comparable technology? I would think retractable stud boots would be a big seller.

Edit: Found some but the cleats have to be manually retracted.

 

Seriously. They can make heelies and those 90’s retractable roller skates, but not studs?!

 

I found some but you have to manually flip them out and flip them back on the bottom of the boot. It’d be nice in this day and age to have them pop out/retract automatically if you start to slip. Even if you could hit a button on your keychain to whip them out it’d be okay.

 

We used Yaktrax on our shoes in Northern Japan. Prevented a lot of slips and falls.

 

if i were making em, you'd have to click the heels together 3 times.

 

I’ve used those or something similar in the past. I was just looking for something more convenient that could be used and retracted on demand.

 

Could you imagine? "Hey guys hold up, I have to charge my shoes before we go hiking". Hah.

 

I've got my front steering knuckles off doing some other work, the knuckles are a bit rusty (am going to clean them up) and the bearing seals are falling apart. I'm replacing my bearings (OEM) while I've got the knuckles off.

Is buying the OEM inner and outer bearing seals worth it over buying National branded seals. It looks like OEM seals are going to cost me $80 per side, while the National seals are $46 per side.

 

Yeah, but we’ve all encountered situations where regular boots are sufficient except for patchy areas where whipping them out would reduce your chance of slipping. Nobody wants to put on and take off yaktrax 2-3 times out on a walk or hike.

 

The question I ask myself in situations like this is: Do I want to be doing this again in the next 15-20 years?

If the answer is "NO", then I'll go with OEM or with the manufacturer that made the OEM part (should be Koyo for wheel bearings IIRC).
If the answer is "YES", I'd consider going off-brand, but let's be real, the shorter life expectancy of off-brand is why the parts cost less money.

Granted, that doesn't justify the prremium price Toyota puts on its parts entirely, but it seems like they tend to price fairly in the ballpark of [(Toyota longevity ÷ Off-brand longevity) x (Off-brand price - 25%)], plus or minus a few percent.

Personally if I know I'm getting 4x the lifetime but only paying 2.5x - 3x the price, I'm coming out ahead, and not just on labor...

 

Thanks for the input. I'm going OEM on the actual bearings. Was just hoping the National branded seals would be quality. Sounds like I should go OEM all the way.

 

I wouldn't be scared of all aftermarket for bearings/seals. I personally wouldn't use National but if SKF or Timken are significantly cheaper than OEM they're solid brands.

 

Yeah we also have a cool place we could stay for free in Pagosa Springs. I was looking at doing this Byway with the family. https://tracksacrossborders.com/. I think there are some off road sections which would be fun to do in the truck with the kids. Anybody familiar with this?

 

Update on my zerk fitting situation. Problem solved by replacing the gun’s coupler

 

Always use a Lincoln fitting IMO. For me a 3 prong, the cheap 4 prongs won’t let go, but that’s a different problem.

Glad you got it resolved.

 

It’s a 4
Loosening the coupler spring helps to release it

 

Horde AP rounds

 

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Tundra was putting in some work today on Fort Hood. My dad recently retired because of crippling arthritis, and has somehow managed to get himself into furniture wholesaling. I'd say she's a little over payload. Meanwhile new rear shocks and air bag helpers sit in my garage.....

 

Might have to do this myself.

 

If I start to slip I just flail my arms as hard as I can. Can confirm it works 50% - suggesting user error.