1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

The have an FAQ and documented issues of others on their website. You can also fill out a form online for email support. You might get lucky.

 

If you go to elevenforum.com and post there someone will help you.

 

used icemaker. Restaurants close all the time.

 

have @FiatRunner show you his four wheel steering set up.

 

I don't have windows 11.

 

I received a reman like that with bent dust seal but not quite as bad although bad enough not worth trying to bend back. If the only problem is the bent dust seal then it can be ordered separately for about $22-28 as I recall, and tapped off, and then the new one tapped back on again. Think I used a wooden dowel to tap it from the back slowly alternating from various places to get it off. Looks like the part number is 90080-30028 for a 1st gen axle (part# 43430-0C010-84 if the reman), but Toyota can verify.

 

I just love this place and glad to have found it. All of you are smart, innovative and resourceful. I have learned a lot so far and appreciate all of the inputs and postings. It seriously helps out a great deal.

 

Cool, you just saved me a lot of legwork. I started playing with it yesterday and noticed that moved. I didn't immediately find an exploded of the CV axle, so decided I've

Yours is definitely rolled harder than mine, but mine is rolled hard in two places. If I can salvage this for $30 out the door with an hour or so of labor/research, I'm all in. That's just shy of half what I'd paid for the CV axle itself, and I think that's a pretty fair shake considering the extra effort that went into getting it ordered, dealing with delays etc.

 

Ok, here we go, taken from the EPC-DATA ruskie site for my '06: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3806/chassis/4302/

It confirms, LH and RH (which are the same axle part anyway) are both 90080-30028. I'll hafta add this to my next order, when I get the parts for my brake booster vacuum stuff.

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Trakmotive CVs arrived the other day. My son will be home in a couple of weeks to install.

Then we will see how long they last.

Thanks for this. I will need these numbers when I attempt to rebuild the stock CVs after removal. Not counting on these replacements to be a long term solution.

 

I was dicking around on Y-Tube University and found this video which was pretty solid for pulling and rebooting your CVs. Doesn't help with my specific situation of replacing the dust shield part, but I'm sharing in case someone else found the process intimidating ... this video really puts the work into perspective:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sooOhL8nJfk
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And I've been wondering what Toyota is using for CV grease in their kits. Running their part numbers wasn't telling me much. I checked that video from Car Car Nut and ... lo and behold, the Toyota kit appears to come with the same CV axle grease for the inners as BMW and some VW (i.e. GKY H-15), although this screenshot from YouTube he's working on a Sienna, so who knows ... GKY H-15 is polyurea, and is always the higher-volume bag included in the kits which would naturally go to the larger boot, i.e. the inner. I guess topping off with GKY H-15 is a safe bet when I re-clamp after my short term post-lift slinging.

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@Shifty - he doesn’t take remove the old grease and clean and inspect the surfaces. My Porsche which used Lobro Rzeppa style joints on both inner and out CV joints, the standard was to disassemble, wipe off all grease and inspect contact surfaces. Reassembly was with new grease only.

Granted that is a 50+ year old car and with normal service our CV joints shouldn’t need rebuilding for many years unless the boots tear.

 

Agree. I would've gone in and cleared all the old grease out. It gets hard and rosin-like after a while and will pit up the metal. But overall, they're showing the bigger picture, from axle tap-out to reboot to reinstall, which I found interesting. Watching someone on here explain how to tap out a CV for someone who'd never done it before was a sight to see. All that typing, I think that video shows it nicely.

 

My neighbors paid $30k for a new deck which looks great but the block pillars look sus. I'm no expert, but isn't there a better way?

 

Dry January. @Festerw @FirstGenVol how’s it going?

my first thought would be poured concrete piers

 

It's been over a week since I've had a drink but I've been sick since Tuesday.

 

Pretty good honestly. Haven't drank since NYE. I started a new job on the 1st and went out to some dinners with other employees. Managed to not drink. My new boss is also doing dry January so that helped. How are you doing?

 

How you doing, big black?

 

Looks like you might have a leveling kit on your truck so you're lifted on the front end a couple inches or more? Are you planning to do long travel boots on the inner shafts to keep them from splitting?

That video you found is great. Here's a step by step writeup and video of the process for 1st gen and installing the EMPI Porsche 930 boots on the inner side. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQJSquWYDLQ

[Some suggestions of doing differently than in this video have included tapping it out of the diff like in the video you posted or using a slide hammer with a hook on one of the inner lip protrusions of the CV Axle to pop out the axle instead of prying between the diff and axle, and also don't need to remove the caliper but suggest disconnecting the ABS wire and brake line from the knuckle so it doesn't get stretched when moved aside. Also pay attention to what bolts are used to attach the LBJ to the knuckle. They are not all the same for the 1st Gen and have different torque specs not reliably noted IME with online resources: See discussion here and article here.]

Kartek and Allpro sell replacement boots apparently made with Neoprene. I understand CVJ Axles makes a silicone version also sold through Off Road Solutions, but for a lot more money (apparently pros and cons of silicone are: pliable / weather resistant from cracking over time but possibly less puncture resistant). These companies all have been very helpful over the phone verify the part number(s) needed:

Kartek EMPI Bates Porsche 930 Boot

CVJ High Angle Boot

Off Road Solutions: High Angle CV Boot Kit

The inner boots are mounted further down the axle shaft past the stock indented location to let the longer boot stretch out a bit and eliminate boot rub/friction that causes them to split.

Folks often use hose style CV axle clamps instead of Oetiker style crimp clamps, but suggest rolled-edge stainless clamps so the clamps don’t cut the soft boots. Capp Hardware has Norma Toro w2 stainless and also Carlyn w4 stainless rolled edge smooth inner clamps online for great price (so you don't cheese-grate your boots clamping them down). Super helpful on the phone and fast order processing.

Norma Torro Hose Clamps, 25-40mm x 9MM wide, W2

Norma Torro Hose Clamps, 70-90mm x 9MM wide, W2

Norma Torro Hose Clamps, 90-110mm x 9MM wide, W2

Carlyn Performance German Style Hose Clamps, 25-40mm x 9mm wide, W4 Stainless

Carlyn Performance German Style Hose Clamps, 70-90 mm x 9mm wide, W4 Stainless

Carlyn Performance German Style Hose Clamps, 90-110mm x 9mm wide, W4 stainless

If you don't want to reuse your outer boots, have been told the most durable solution is Toyota’s (that comes in a kit with the inner that would be not used in this application and swapped for the extended 930 style). This is apparently Toyota part # 04-438-0C020 boot kit (includes both inner and outer and grease with clamps). In this case, the suggestion is to install the outer boot in OEM position, but don't use inner boot and instead use 930 style (e.g. Kartek, Allpro, or CVJ/ORS).

 

Did you lift your truck and eventually the inner cv boots split (near the front differential)? See the last post.

 

How do you like those Yokohama Geolandars? I have the same on my truck and they're downright awful in any snow/ice/mud. Can't tell if this is because they're worn out or because they're just not great tires. Looking at tire replacements soon and just curious.

 

Have had good performance with the Yokohama Geolander A/T G015 on up to about 6" of snow and ice enough to replace them with the same on a 1st Gen 4WD Tacoma. They seem to perform about as well as the old Toyo AT2 and last year's Discount Tire Pathfinder AT on a 1st Gen Tundra in say 1/2 a foot of snow or iced-over roads, although both the latter have a bit more open lug so seem would do better in deeper stuff.

 

Well @FirstGenVol looks like I'm returning that POS Netgear Nighthawk Router I bought like yourself. I was on the phone with tech support for 2.5 hours trying to fix all my devices suddenly getting blocked by the router. Even after we did a complete factory reset to bring it back he still couldn't explain what might've happended so it can happen again now.

No thanks. It's going back next week to Walmart.

 

After @shifty` helped me I've had zero issues. It's been perfect.

 

Plants are covered, pipes & hoses are drained.

I should be fine as long as it stays above 10*.

 

Yeah those are def poured in place, and TN so not as critical as far as deep below frost line. As long as they went down a couple feet to good hard ground they should be fine.
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