1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Is there a website for that?

This is what I've been trying to do. I may have to delete the camera and start over.

 

So this looks like an upgrade to the one I have. When do I need to replace mine? It's not a bottleneck; my shit ass internet provider is.

 

That one says it covers up to 2,000sq ft. You think it would work?

 

If it's still working for you, and it's still supported by Ubiquity, roll with it. That's what's great about their stuff. They're always rolling out improvements for existing hardware, they support their hardware for a really f'n long time, and it's enterprise/business grade stuff on-point with what Cisco/Meraki/etc. are rolling out at a fraction of the cost, and no residual costs.

There are a number of smartphone apps that'll do wifi scans and tell you what's around you. Hell, a lot of modern quality wifi access points will show who is broadcasting around you so you can choose less-cluttered channels. I checked your new Netgear WAP and it doesn't appear to mention a scan tool (network analysis, channel view tool, there are different names for it).

I typically use an older version of Metageek's Inssider (two S in the name) tool to scan. Here is a sample screenshot with some details of how to use it. Effectively, you'll want to install this on a laptop. Once installed, I like to take the laptop near the router and start a scan. The scan screen when done will look like below. At the bottom, notice two things: (1) There are two wifi network frequencies they're scanning for, 2.4 GHz and 5GHz, I boxed those in blue and yellow. Notice the pink boxes at the bottom of each, just like with CB radios or radio/TV stations, there are numbered "channels" where data is broadcast. (2) You'll notice "peaks" over each channel with a network name above it. Those are other wireless broadcast devices in your area, the taller the peak the "hotter" the signal is for those devices. You DO NOT want your wireless access point to be in a crowd of peaks! You want to change your wifi router's channels to use something nobody else is using.

For example, in the right-hand yellow box, I'd want to set my 5GHz wireless broadcast to be on channel 120 or 124 because there's literally nobody anywhere nearby using that channel in the 5GHz band, so I'll have zero competitive "noise" to deal with and nobody will be stomping on my signal with theirs. In the left-hand box, choosing either channel 3 or 4, possibly 8 or 9 would be ideal, because most wireless routers auto-configure to either channel 1, 6 or 11 which is why you see so many mid-peaks in the graph. Hopefully this makes sense? If not, you have my # and I can explain it aloud (or you can text screenshots of your scans and I'll help you choose channels).

Anyway, like I said, I start at my router and scan, then go to my farthest-outside devices, like your security camera, and scan again.

Note: The position of your antennae actually are important, you can also use Inssider tool to check that - leave the laptop where your farthest device is and try adjusting the antenna to watch if the signal gets taller. Also, your router may (it should) support OR your camera may support switching or locking the device onto 2.4GHz band instead of 5GHz, which may help with connectivity.

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Here's what I can tell you.

Every house or business I've installed in has a footprint of about 2,000sf, some with concrete walls internally. My house footpring ~1,300k sqft, 3 floors total, mostly wood, concrete basement walls. Ubiquity says their U6 Lite access point is good for like 1,200sf, I think? With one U6 Lite access point on the ceiling of the top floor (wifi is directional in most cases, unless the device says "omnidirectional", so having the "dish" access point firing down is important!) I can technically support all devices in my entire house, down through all three floors. If I only had the upstairs AP, the one camera I have outside, behind the house, would probably have a semi-weak signal, but it'd still connect. I have it locked in at 2.4GHz just for a little added distance/signal quality.

But there's more to building a system with Ubiquity. There are things they sell, similar to what @bmf4069 has, where it's a standalone device. That's not typically what I install.

And whatever you install, if you really want to get the most out of your gFiber, it should have a gigabit WAN port (so you get a full gigabit connection to Google Fiber) and it should also support MIMO/channel bonding so you can shotgun multiple wifi connections/streams... IIRC, you're capable of doing ~100Mbps per connection/stream, so if your device supports connecting on 3 streams simultaneous, you'll potentially be able to average out at 200Mbps of that gigabit gFiber connection. And for anyone technical reading this, yes, these numbers are not real-world, I'm dumbing it down so it makes sense and I don't feel like looking up exact numbers.

Moving to a Unifi household so your home runs more like a bulletproof Enterprise network fully is totally feasible with less than $1k investment. You can even get waaaaay cheaper than that. But it does require some cabling. It does require some knowledge. And Unifi suite comes with a TON of free add-ons for CCTV/NVR, access control (fob), IDM, and other stuff. Support is great but I haven't had to open a case since using their stuff 6-9 years ago because their stuff just "works". Flawlessly.

And my house, its network, and wifi, etc. stays up through all power outages and blips without any hiccups, which is great when working from home. Most of it is PoE, so as long as your switch supplying PoE power is on battery backup, along with your internet modem/gateway, you can survive damn near anything.

 

Last bit ...

The basic home/SOHO system I typically build is as-follows:

• A basic 4U wall-mount rack, typically from StarTech, something with either an upper or lower crossbrace for stability
• Unifi Dream Machine "SE" (special edition, it has built-in PoE ports to support multiple cameras/access points): https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-unifi-cloud-gateways/products/udm-se
• An appropriate number/model of their access points: https://store.ui.com/us/en?category=all-wifi
• If wired network expansion is needed, I'll either choose something for the 4U wall mount PoE switch like this, or consider little expansion PoE switches like this.
• A basic 400va-1500va battery backup

Granted, you can build a Unifi network with just a single access point, properly mounted, and a PoE injector for power. That's literally all you need.

Ideally though, I'd want the Dream Machine SE because it acts as the central brains for your network, as a firewall, as a security NVR/DVR, as a VPN gateway to get into your home network from outside, a power source for your wifi and security devices. It's pretty f'n incredible what they pack into it.

 

Ps - here's my home rack in my "network closet", posted from the view of one of my Unifi G3 cameras. I went a little larger with my rack because my network is basically a small office, with NAS storage, virtualization, label printing, battery backup, etc. Cabling at the top is a little messy. "I'm doing something" right now that has things looped for a minute.

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On the message boards people are saying the AT&T modem/router has a 5000 sq ft range. I can’t find any official spec that documents it though. I imagine tech support could tell you.

I’d recommend trying out what @shifty is suggesting before returning and upgrading the router. There are a lot of things that can influence your reception.

 

Well, I understood a few of those words. I'll just sit here with my surfboard and dream machine and call it a day.

 

Yeah my eyes glazed over but I appreciate the attempt to help. I ordered a Netgear wifi extender from the Zon. If that doesn't work I'll return both and start over.

 

Short version:

• Get on a laptop
• Download and install InSSIDer, it's safe, no malware, no spyware, free version is fine: https://www.metageek.com/downloads/inssider-win/
• Run a scan, send me a screencap, along with your current SSID so I can find it in the noise
• I'll tell you if there's anything you can do to optimize stuff
  
• Bonus: Send me another separate one from near your camera, and I'll let you know if there's anything you can do to tweak in its favor...

 

Wi-Fi Analyzer on Android is better graphically

 

I think InSSIDer may be abit more robust. Video here covers just some of the basics of what it'll uncover. It's a pretty worthwhile app. I have a few smartphone apps I've needed to use in the field, and I prefer Ubiquity's Dream Machine only because it supports their WifiMan app which is super handy, but InSSIDer is my goto tool out in the field when I'm walking a site planning for install.

 

They have been installing Fiber in my neck of the woods last few weeks. Currently using Visible as my home internet for $25/month and its good enough for me. Look forward to seeing what kind of speeds/pricing is offered in my area in the next few months. Yay!!!!!!!!!





Starlink was ass by the way.

 

Check out this masterpiece

https://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/d/cedar-park-2004-toyota-tundra-sr5-4d/7692776052.html

 

Crusty. That's what I would use to describe that.

Also LOL at the "wide body tundra". Those are fender flares my guy.

 

Your positive it’s a range problem? New routers have new updated protocols. Also could be something simple like 2.4 vs 5G network compatibility. Otherwise one of the small plug in range extenders may be the way.

 

I didn't see anything about a wide body, but he did call it a DC

 

Bottom of the description section.

 

Not positive of anything. Shifty walked me through changing WiFi channels and that seems to have helped so far. My cameras know to automatically search for my 2.4 network.

 

Need to add this info to @shifty` s “so you wanna buy a router” sticky

 

Nah, I've written enough tech documentation in my lifetime, and I volunteered for years as a mod/contributor in the tech/help section over at the 67-72chevytrucks forum. I don't need any of that again.

 

Just got this 2001. V8 4x4 long bed..

 

Welcome over to the 1st gen side!

 

Congrats!

 

Thanks man..

 

Welcome to the fam! I see a little rust on the bumper brackets thru the fog light hole. Hopefully the frame looks as clean as it appears through the front fender.

FYI, fog lights are an easy upgrade on these trucks, hardest part for earlier years is finding the dash switch. But you should find the wiring is already in-place.

Nice find! What are your plans?

 

Basically a unicorn now. Nice find.

 

It’s been a Cali vehicle..rust isn’t to bad. Need to replace the coilovers/shocks/boots..I do see the fog light harness.any recommendations would greatly be appreciated.

 

$101 EPIC LIGHTING AMXOE Replacement Driving Fog Lights Assembly Compatible for Toyota 00-06 Tundra w/Steel Bumper [ TO2592102 812200C010 TO2593102 812100C010 ] Pair

Amazon.com: EPIC LIGHTING AMXOE Replacement Driving Fog Lights Assembly Compatible for Toyota 00-06 Tundra w/Steel Bumper [ TO2592102 812200C010 TO2593102 812100C010 ] Pair : Automotive

 

Someone on here, I remember saying they had an extra button for the dash. The rest should be as easy as finding any other '00-'02 at a junkyard and grabbing the housings and fasteners. Hell, if you find one, you can just grab the switch from it. Maybe grab the bumper skin too.

IIRC, you should find the oval blank in the dash next to the dimmer knob (left of steering wheel) has the harness plugged into the back of the blank. Snap in the switch, plug in the harness, reinstall the dash panel, and repeat on the bumper side with the housings.

@BluegrapeVr6 recently did the same on his RCLB, maybe he can share a few tips?