1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

dihatsu!

 

Bless you.

 

Noticed one of these today for the first time, Ugly AF ass end. But it's a prestigious LandRover

 

I'm guessing that quarter is perma-funk-stuck. Wasn't worth breaking the console to remove it huh?
At least you'll never be flat broke, eh? silver linings.....

That kind of talk is offensive to some people.







I don't know who those people are, but they can suck my balls cuz that shit is hilarious

My neighbor has a Defender truck, I believe it's a late '60's model. It's a tall beast with big wheels, a diesel motor and with the steering wheel on the right-hand side. Pretty sure it's all stock (looks like a recent full-restore), It's a badass rig.

 

@shifty` the plot thickens.
my keyless alarm system is a Karr, and the valet control is a momentary button. Found it on their website along with programming instructions, The button is correct, but they show a Karr remote, which is clearly not the Prestige one that I've been using. My new Prestige remote will be here tomorrow.

 

Yeah some of those are pretty cool looking, the old ones. Saw an old right hand drive Acura Legend (i think) yesterday. That's got to be weird driving in the states, unless you are a mail carrier.

 

That, Sir, would be the housing for the engine air filter

 

That's a pretty big filter for such a small motor. If it were aluminum, I'd swear it was keg powered.

 

That quarter put up a helluva fight, but it did eventually loose.

 

It's fine, it'll work. chances are KARR didn't even make their own hardware, it's the same board as the Prestige system in different housing. I'm sure that same board was probably used by a couple of other brands, it's typical. Same stuff is common even in today's market - Like, how Electrolux makes a ton of appliances which get rebranded under a different name, or even in the car world, how Kenwood and JVC are identical internals with a different faceplate.

It shouldn't matter - if the remote you have today and the remote you bought have the same ID on them, it'll work - the main way to tell is to find the box/brain and/or sometimes sensors. KARR typically branded their crap from what I've seen, using either an embossed logo or sticker on top or bottom. The couple of Prestige units I've yanked out weren't so clearly branded, and I had to flip thru a book to figure out what they were. IIRC, I had to call a buddy fo mine down in FL to look up your stuff, and he said it was Prestige/Audiovox. Hell, I even called the number on the back of your remote and remember it went to Voxx's support line. But again ... doubt it matters for anything except the 'how do I program this shit?' step, which ... if it's like any other pre-Y2k alarm, it's typically "turn the key to ON and within 2-3 seconds, flip the valet switch 3 times, then tap a button on the remote"

However ... you may also be able to call the number on the back of the remote and get someone to list out the various programming methods to try.

EDIT: And if worst comes to worst, you can always swap your old tramsitter guts into the new transmitter shell, unless the transmitter's board is bad.

 

Might be a dumb question, but I plan on fluid filming my frame in the next week. My frame is pretty good, has some minor rust, and some dirt buildup. I've already pressure washed the frame once, got most the dirt, but there is still some left. How clean does my frame need to be before fluid film, and how much rust do I need to knock off? Or can I just coat it?

If I can just coat it that would be great. I don't plan on driving my Tundra much this winter (I have a Camry as a daily driver). In the spring I plan on pulling my bed off and knocking as much rust off of everything that I can, using a rust converter, then doing some undercarriage paint. Just wondering if I can just spray my frame with fluid film and be good until then.

 

Just coat it. The frame doesn't need to be spotless. Make sure you pump a lot into the holes of the boxes portion up front.

One thing I like to do is spray it on the frame and then wipe it with a rag.

 

Best advice i can give, is dont live near snow.

 

If you want the cleanest look, you can take a wire wheel and pneumatic die grinder to it and clean it up without eating into new metal. Need a decent compressor(> 5 cfm) otherwise you’ll be waiting for the tank to fill after 15 seconds of use.

 

I can understand why @Jack McCarthy doesnt use a needle gun, but why isnt it more prevalent on surface rust?

great tool, gets through the coatings, too.

 

Druel worthy.... truck frame pron

 

Not too many people can afford a 5 cfm or greater air compressor or have the patience to wait for a tank fill to get max rpms. However the result is significantly better than a needle gun with its ability to get a smooth surface.

You also need eye protection with the high rpm wire wheel since it doesn’t take much for a steel needle or two to fly off.

 

Mine came out of the trash & i bolted it to a mower deck to take it where i need it.



i can pump it up at a gas station if needed (110v) & have a retractable hose reel i can zip tie to the handle. I agree, my 3 gallon portable was useless. Could fill a mostly full tire, but not much else.

 

The two stage upright tanks with a 5 hp motor or greater are the ones to get however, you need a 230V outlet for them. Ingersol Rand makes some nice ones.

 

Cant run a long 220 extension cord. My belt is loose & sometimes i have to let it spin while i throttle the load to keep from tripping breakers. Seem to be using a gfci circuit that doesnt like much load.

 

Make yourself a 240v extention cord. And replace that gfi. They get weak with age. Especially the Leviton ones. Go with Pass and Seymore.

 

Thanks for the advice! I'll just spray it for now. My plan for the spring involved using a wire wheel and die grinder. Just don't have the time for that now but hope to in the spring.

 

Maybe should’ve taken a b4 pic but time to frame up the bathroom/closet.

 

Finally got my Kirby up and running with new belts and bags and a tweaking of the brush height which is really what got it tuned in to running comparably to my Shark. Will be trying out the shampooer this weekend. Still can’t believe I got this thing for next to nothing.

If it’s as good as I remember, I’ll be buying the sprayer, hose and canister handle attachments on eBay so I can shampoo my upholstery which includes my Tundra seats and rugs.

 

Just put a Carolina Panthers sticker on it and it will suck again

 

It's a Kirby, it's designed to suck.

 

Your frame is gonna be an oily mess when you get ready to remove the bed and clean and coat. Fluid film is great and all but the small side effects of it being on kinda suck. Sometimes our dog walks under my truck then I gotta give her a bath. The stuff never dries. It would be really good if you could pull the bed and clean up first if you're gonna do it anyway but it's getting a bit late in the season to do all that I suppose.
I say coat it but just be ready to deal with the goop next year when you wire wheel and paint it.

 

yes the box is clearly branded 'Karr'. What got me suspicious, is that there is a specific Karr remote for the Karr system that I have, as I learned from the product page of their website. I don't know how the Karr system got paired with a prestige remote but if the FCCID matches and it works, it's fine. Had I known a day earlier, I would've ordered the remote made for the system. Oh well.

For the secondary button, it has a ground pulse option. My air horns use a ground (negative) switch circuit and wired to a constant hot. Is there any reason not to program the secondary button wire to my air horn circuit?, so it'll blow a big toot from a remote button push? I know it's obnoxious, but it could be fun.

 

I fkn knew it!
I've experience the stubborn bastards myself. Next time try scalding hot water

 

I see no reason not to. Most alarms like that support expansion using relays etc but not sure how you’d go about doing it with the KARR system. I’d start with trying to find a wire breakout to understand what leads are on-board. I swore I found a wiring breakout for the KARR not long after I joined the forum, pre-pando. Hell if I can find it now. I’m
Happy to try and walk you thru it. Someone like James @ Tech12Volt may be able to help also, I’m a couple decades out, probably installed my last alarm around the time your KARR was installed.