1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

When we started. I had 2 neighbors my age, real deal he-man-woman-haters-club. One wall didnt have any hardware, it was tied together with rope, and flexxed in the wind.

 

20-40psi low side and high side about 2.5x ambient temp for psi (ie: 100 deg f = 250ish psi). This is off idle check (1.2k-1.8k rpms).

Yeah, vacuum down for 5-10mins then close off. Let set minimum of 5 mins (10-15 is better) to see if it holds vacuum. If vacuum holds good, that means no leaks and ok to charge.

 

How did you decide on 4.88? This sale is tempting. I had no plans to do this but it's hard to ignore 75% off.

 

Y'all have me beat. Even Haitians wouldn't have stayed in the one we "built"--a big hole in the ground we covered with a sheet of OSB we took from a construction site. One day we rode our bikes to it and it was full of empty beer cans and dirty magazines. Instant upgrade.

 

Solid pinion spacer isn't really needed for the front diff, it's way more protected. I'd definitely recommend it for the rear. ("Crush sleeve" is OEM now, back in the late 60's & 70's they used a solid spacer in some OEM diffs).


Isn't the ECGS bushing for the pass side of the front diff? I'd probably do it when building the front.


If air line breaks and the air locker stops, it'll act like an open diff. Not the end of the world.

If you know how to left foot brake to modulate rear traction, you could run a torsen LSD. You'd only need to modulate when lifting a rear tire. Might even get away with parking brake application, if it's adjusted well.

 

Drivers

 

I'd like to go to 34-35s with a proper cab tub, but part of it is just the math and trying to get back to the feel of stock tire size. My truck with stock tires and 4.10s felt so peppy and overpowered in the lower gears and that's what I want to recreate.

A lot of people go with 4.56s on 33s with most of them reporting positive results, but they start with stock 3.91s. Since I am coming from stock 4.10s, I think I would be underwhelmed with a 4.56 rear end unless I had a five speed.

3.91s to 4.56 is roughly 15-16% lower gear ratio. 4.10 to 4.88 is roughly the same.

 

Either way. Do it @Sunnier.

 

Yeah, 4.88's for 34+. Especially starting with 4.10's and non-vvti/5sp.

 

I can't remember what I'm at currently. 3.91 for access cabs?

 

Weight really goes up past 285/75R16 or equivalent 17. And you need wider wheels. That’s a big part of the “feel” I think. Just like how going past 2-3” of lift causes a lot of work.

I’m not saying 35’s aren’t fun but on FGT I think it’s a lot easier if you max at 33” and aim for 32-33 as a target. That plus 2-3” of lift is pretty significant in my opinion.

 

Most likely. Most 1st gens have 3.91s except for 04 DCs, Sequoias, and manual trans trucks I believe.

 

I've been on 33s and many different "lift heights" with 4.10s for over 5 years and it gets old


Fuck them 33s

 

Why start now when other method has worked fine?

 

Does this clash? some Japanese beer with Al pastor pork for tacos

 

My plan is rotate when swapping summers and winters. Have the valve stem caps even. Just haven’t bought Tundra snows yet. Probably go studded just to have one set. Since otherwise I don’t have any real reason to drive the FGT during winter.

 

Snow wheeling.

 

Well, vs the ‘16. Studded would be a reason. Regular snows would be equivalent. As is, the ‘16 feels safer on snow and ice with locker and Nokians. Mostly because Atrac and more sophisticated tech / traction control.

I definitely don’t want studded tires on the daily, though I no longer have preschool transport responsibility.

Of course all the wheels are compatible so I could potentially throw studs on any of the trucks if I had some. Seems like one set is the right number. S, snows on the 2wd is kind of idiotic really.

 

I ran studded mt tires for 10 years and they were amazing in deep snow, hard pack and icy conditions. Loud and obnoxious on dry pavement. The company fleet vehicles I used to drive had Blizzaks on their suburbans and 12 passenger vans. Was very impressed with the traction but I always felt I had more grip with studs over studdless. JMO

 

The trick to engage and disengage a stuck elocker is to slowly rock in D and R. You will likely hear or feel a slight pop and then it's engaged or disengaged. You don't have to do it all the time, just if you think it's stuck. Otherwise you hit the button and creep forward a few feet and it should engage/disengage

 

Oooo whew at? Also is that a group I can join, still gotta take the tundra out on the trails with y’all

 

I mean, it's a lager, and that actually fits by style.

 

No more wheeling for me 'til San G, but sure, I'll go out with you when it cools off.

 

Sapporo kind of ruined Anchor, although Anchor's union didn't do themselves any favors there :/

 

Shame about Anchor. I have fond memories of a Sally’s Famous fishwich and a cold Anchor steam down at the pier. Guess they are both gone now.

 

Heard about this one from my brewer friend end of last week. Definitely loved some Anchor Steam, but it's been an eon since I've had one.

 

And that's the problem. A beer that only triggers nostalgia won't make it. Too much competition and not enough innovation on their part.

 

I love my Blackstone. I made Philly Cheesesteaks last night.

What's with the Mercedes in the back?

 

I just haven't seen it on the shelves or I probably would have bought some. I used to find it everywhere down in FL, I can't recall the last time I've actually seen it here in ATL.

 

That's my favorite type of wheeling. I wish we got more of it. KO2's haven't let me down in snow yet.