1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Congrats! Interested to see what you do with it.

 

This will be on my truck at some point during its life!

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/su...nsion-kits-sequoia/xlt-suspension-kit-tundra/

 

Don’t forget the 6-piston Brembo calipers and rotors to go with them!

 

Already ahead of you!

 

Picked the truck up, but its a bit too wet and cold out for me to want to crawl under it and check out my bushings. There's a note that it will need a rear passenger camber kit before the next alignment in addition to the bushings. Would the brain trust buy the SPC setup and just swap them all? Here's what little work they did to it:

I asked they do: -.1 camber 2.8 caster and .1-.15 total toe in

 

Camber and toe is good. Caster, like mine, is crappy at 1.3 and 1.6 degrees.

Better off doing it yourself and getting as close to what you want before taking it back.

With the lifetime, don’t you only get two per year?

 

The guys I dealt with were really cool. slipped them 20 bucks to buy the counter guy and tech lunch. He said not to worry about any of the alignment rules, I could bring it whenever I want and they will knock it out. He also said they can get the numbers how I want them when I bring it back.

 

I’ve yet to find a place that can say that and deliver. This is like the worst place in the country for getting custom anything. I once called every shop in MA that had Hunter machines and only two place knew how to use the software to do an alignment. Everywhere else just uses the basic functionality and can’t guarantee anything other than they’ll get it to pass even if I’m willing to pay extra.

 

As "The darkest" always said...."Toe and Go"

 

Looks like they may not have done a second caster swing after doing the camber/caster adjustment. Since the caster numbers didn't change. Are you lifted?

Sketch.

Camber/Toe is good.



Also no such thing as a rear camber kit... We've got solid axles lol.

 

Probably means the one on the rear side of the lower A arms

 

This was my thought. And basically they didn't go through too much trouble getting the numbers how I wanted this time because of that passenger camber and the condition of the control arm bushings.

 

Yeah, on that particular thread, I was trying to diagnose a clicking type sound from the front end area that was new. According to my friend who is a mechanic, I'm "hypersensitive" when it comes to sounds and vehicles....
Anyway, I thought I put on that thread that I chalked it up to the cat plate or skid plate shifting around some. I had both off after for my skid fab project and couldn't replicate the sound. I did however have some twisty lookin rubber and cracks in the rubber on bushings after just a couple years, I kinda think it may be normal? I know they do need indexed a certain way when installing but don't know if that's what caused those 2 things or if it's relatively normal... I think @shifty` said he found similar on his bushings that weren't very old.
My truck seems to hold alignment fine so far. It's easy to keep it that way just going to the mall "crawling" the approaches to different parking lots and shit though.

 

Yea my Napa arms are Meh. Honestly without a lift I think they’d be fine longer. But I do know I’ve got more down travel with the 5100s than the truck has stock

 

Gotcha. Makes sense.

 

I would skip the 6.9. It's a durable motor, but was fords first shot at a diesel in the light truck line. We always had lots of the surrounding crap going out on them like AC compressors, Fuel tank switch, injector pumps, starters(can be fixed by using the 7.3 starter), glow plugs, glow plug harness, and transmissions(Only automatics). They also love them some oil and are very slow. I would take an f250 of that era with the straight 6 over the diesel. Your other two picks are hard to argue, other than finding a clean one for a reasonable price.

 

I kinda like the 6.9. I had 2wd 1986 model with a 4 speed. Not going anywhere fast, but it had torque for days. Would’ve kept it if it was 4x4.

Agreed that they have their faults. Like you mentioned glow plugs. The 7.3s (IDI, not power stroke) had cavitation issues in the Coolant jackets. They were basically just a bored out 6.9.
That, and injector return lines.

they’re just so simple. 12v Cummins is a better motor no doubt. Can’t find a deal with one of those though. Even the rusted out ones go for gold.


I thought about an 300 inline 6, but they’re so gutless and nowhere near the torque of the diesel. Keep in mind this is a tow rig, even if it’s for local non-interstate use.

trying to avoid the TTB front end too, but that’s dang near impossible.

 

It would be cool to have one of those 478 gmc v6's. Especially with twin sticks.

but gimme a screamin' jimmy all day long. I dont care how slow or thirsty they are. They bring the noise.

 

This is a bit wild. Thread’s already locked, so if he’s posted more, I don’t know it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wanted…-speedometer-bezel.118506/

 

If you decide to go poly, PM me first. I know a guy at Energy Suspension, and I still owe you a favor

What is this long travel truck you speak of? Stock Raptors don't count as a long travel truck.

 

Hmm wonder who could have wrote this

Ordered!

 

Well, you gonna share with the class what they call this magical product?
(nowhere in your post is it named)

 

Shit went 0 to 100 real fast.

Yup, that's Heather.

 

RIP

 

What is this long travel truck you speak of? Stock Raptors don't count as a long travel truck. @RUSTYNUTS

Then I retract the comment of having one in my fleet!

 

Man, I must've missed it. Looks like the thread's been cleaned up. What's the skinny?

Definitely wasn't me, I've had my truck 4-5 years at this point. And my housing are paint-matched. Looks about like my typical review writing style on scAmazon though. What's the name of the reviewer?

I'm guessing it's the Griot's Black Shine trim restorer stuff. It legitimately does work, and way better than Meguiar's does.

 

TTT
Tornado + Tundra = Totaled

 

TiTS

Tundras in TornadoeS

 

I've heard it takes at least a F4 tornado to kill a Tundra.

 

Well, after almost not outrunning a Cameron SS on my Aprilia, I've come to the conclusion that my ass needs to loose so weight. It's too expensive to make more power with the bike, so it's not a hard choice. (400lb bike + 230lb me)/100 hp is 6.3lb per hp. If I could get that into the 5ish range I think I'd be doing better.

Either that or sell it and upgrade to the Tuono 1100 v4. Mmmmmmm......