1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

yea, filling the gap if i need to ride a rail. I've used traction tape for dirtbike ramps, but everything is dry when i use my ramps.

 

Are those d-hole wheels 16's? And tight on the hubs?

 

yeah d windows from jeggs ( 4inch BS), they scraped the front caliper, 275/70/16's so i had to put spidertrax 1.25, it was hitting on turns on front bumper, not on frame ( trimmed about 1/2 inch off) and rear seam weld, hammered pinch flat and I was good to go.

 

What tires are you running?

 

Well, the plan to fix/flip vehicles was put on hold for the time being. Found a 2000 subaru outback for cheap with both blown head gaskets. Nissan plan is out the windurrr too I spose... for now. Don't own it yet, but I will. Planning on it being my first victim for TOP2.Ohhhhh...

Anyways, I called around to some automotive machine shops. Looking like $45 a head for resurfacing only. They don't have the equipment to hot tank heads.

Would yall keep searching till you find one that can resurface, hot tank, crack test, and check all the valve guides at the same time?

That's what my gut says, but you guys know your way around engines/shops better than me.

Oh, and price of the Subaru? $700

 

I could use a use smart car to keep in the bed in case my truck breaks down again. Those are under the payload limit, right?

 

I've owned two outbacks...awesome cars! Great in collisions too (don't ask how I know).

Subarus are very finicky about head gaskets (My daughter's Legacy had them replaced twice, and then a friend took it on a trip, ignored the overheating, and fried the engine for good!) You're on the right track with the head resurfacing, but I think there's a lot more to it. I think they want OEM parts, just like our Toyotas

 

I've done my homework as best I can. Looks like the original head gasket used on the H4 engines was graphite coated, single layer steel. The turbo models or whatever used a multi-layer steel gasket which is what I plan on putting on. I'd just rather pay a shop to do all the head work at once, and then be done with it. With routine maintenance these cars are just like our Toyotas from what I've been able to read. OEM all the way as far as the head gasket goes.

There was a recall for the head gasket issue on the 2.5 H4 engines, but Subaru's fix at the time was to buff the block, and cylinder head with a 3M wheel, slap a new OEM graphite coated gasket on, and send-em out the door. Quick as possible. NFG. That ain't how Tundra2's Garage rolls.

 

Well I had a wild day. While walking my dog, I got charged by a dog. It backed me across the street and into another home's driveway. It kept advancing and closing the distance no matter what I did. The whole time it was snarling and barking at me. First time I've drawn down on someone (thing) in 13 years of having a carry permit. It finally left when a passing car honked at it.

This dog is always an asshole when we walk by but their invisible fence normally keeps him contained. I wasn't sure what to do so I called animal control.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aq0hDvKJ5Q


Here's the "Too Long; Didn't watch" cliff notes:

The original gasket was single layer steel, coated in graphite. The graphite coating will eventually chip, and then start peeling/flaking away. The MLS gasket is the permanent* fix for the H4 boxer engine head gasket issues. As important as using the correct MLS gasket, is the prep work before installation of the head being correct. Subaru's OEM method for installing/torqueing is a little complex when you first look at it, but makes complete sense when you watch somebody do it in person/video. I've got the below video set to start at the "factory torque" process. After he explains, he shows you how its done.


https://youtu.be/gOwu5nEet4c?t=320

* as long as the prep work leading up to reinstallation of the head gaskets is correct, the torque patter above followed, and proper maintenance is performed on the engine... you should never have another head gasket issue with this vehicle.

Something else to note about this particular model of "early" H4 engines is that the thermostat is mounted vertically, rather than horizontally like our engines. This can allow air to become trapped around the spring of the thermostat, and because of the airlock, never reach temperatures high enough to open the thermostat. I plan on researching to see if the later version of this same engines water pump will fit an earlier one as they are mounted horizontally, and properly bleed air. Do it right, do it once.

 

Shit man. Glad you got out.

 

Why didn’t your dog try to defend you? Pets are usually protective.

 

Be the guy that walks with a golf club, that never actually golfs

 

Dog knew dad was strapped. Like all good parents, he’s prepared his kids.

 

She's 13 years old and getting pretty chill in her old age. She was watching him but that's it. If my other dog Gunner had not passed away in March he would have tried to eat this dog. I'm honestly glad my dog didn't escalate the situation. I had run out of room to retreat and was unsure how I was going to get away without turning to violence.

 

Next time walk with a bat….

 

Honestly a bat or golf club would be preferable to a gun in this scenario. Trying to shoot a moving dog, one handed, without shooting my own dog is not ideal.

Ironically, it's not legal here to carry an ASP baton unless you take a special class.

 

Did you almost become an ATF agent? Damn dude.

 

That all sounds good. Can you do the HGs with the engine in? What do those even look like from the bottom? Also, have you bought the car yet?

 

Reviews are starting to come out on the Harbor Freight off road jack. It performed very well. Both it and Pro Eagle are made in China.

If I was going to pick one, I'd go with Harbor Freight for $299.

https://youtu.be/Vv_8ooIbaVU

 

Probably come from the same factory, just different cousins putting them together

 

I don't own the car yet legally, but it's all done by word of mouth. Going to pick it up saturday. Uhual tow dolly for the win. You can* do them in car, but every thing I've ever read on it leads me to believe that a true repair will be pulling the engine, doing the timing belt, water pump, idler, etc all at the same time.

 

Is there a special procedure for using a tow dolly on those since they are AWD? Or just hook it up and go?

 

Unbolt the drive shaft from the rear differential. Same as a rwd vehicle.

 

front shocks assembled and rack on.. waiting on jamb nuts to put the outer tie rods on.. then this thing can roll for the first time. (yes the spindles are crusty. they're temp prerunner spindles to make it roll)

 

Not sure any of you guys would be interested, but saw this and figured this would be the group that needed it or knew somebody that did. https://www.tundras.com/threads/anyone-need-free-atereo.117327/

 

Never know. Somebody might not be an audiophile and just wants a stock unit.

 

Got that fancy aux battery tray inbound and thinking about what I’ll do with the stock location. It’s got a 31 right now and that sucker is too big and heavy in my opinion. If I do an OGE RedArc tray it’ll be even taller and probably hit the hood. So I gotta shrink height and weight.

so I think either 24F or 35. Gotta decide.

The aux will be a 27 I think, though maybe 24 as it’s the same width and height, just shorter length and lower weight IIRC.

I also have a 27F in the ‘05 which is overkill there, may well swap back to a 24 to shave a little bit of weight.

Can’t think of any good way to make use of the 31, it was a poor decision.

 

Niko passed away Wednesday night by himself in the woods. He was interned today. Rip feline fuckhead