1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Taco’s come in pairs, keep your eyes peeled.

 

No shit that’s how it’s been with me

 

Was that one rolled over?

 

Very much. Frame looks to have survived. The ARB brackets are toast, but the bumper seems fine other than the bull bar dent

 

A rolled over taco is a burrito.

 

I get emailed coupons every weekend & haven't been in a store in a long time. But if you click on a coupon link, go to the website, you'll get lots of emails with coupons telling you when it's on sale, price dropped, it's Thursday, or any other excuse they can come up with.

 

@Jack McCarthy
Came through while i was reading this thread.
Not the 20% off, but click through & it will likely start the flood.

 

Thanks. Already saw them online and looked through them. Nothing yet.

 

no, email is fine. just pull it up on your phone & they'll scan your screen. Or print the coupon out for old skool kicks.

 

And read the fine print. You cant use the 20% coupon on certain brands.

 

funny you mention, I've got one on the wall in the garage. We stumbled into a 1/3 acre lot near our place (long story) and swingblade is exactly what I use to clear it a couple of times per year. At least you don't get coated in green goo like you would with a weedeater.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5MAg_yWsq8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKsV35RbgY4

 

I've been watching them quite a bit, signed up for their emails, etc. I can tel you the 2.5T aluminum jack is on sale in Cali right now, but it's $20 off not 20%, and I haven't seen a 20% off coupon since I've been watching for like 6 months. I suspect they changed their marketing - the have a bro deal membership now. it's like $29 annually or something. I haven't tried it but that may be the new thing.

 

That’s how I got my jack, used my friends tracking club membership

 

That’s how you get the ‘Super Saver’ coupons

 

Definitely wants GL5, but I think 75w90 is what most folks run. I've tried a few different fluids.
I'm currently using Motul MotylGear 75w90. These balk-ring synchros require conventional oil and are temperamental at the best of times. I'm not even running any LSD additive right now. I'll take the improved shifting at the cost of a little noisier full-lock turns. (Because who really spends that much time at full-lock?)

I have a factory hitch and my leaves were cake. **I don't remember if I cut the bolts. It's certainly something I would do without hesitation tho.

 

[QUOTE="chrisb, post: 2740086, member: 41284]
I have a factory hitch and my leaves were cake. **I don't remember if I cut the bolts. It's certainly something I would do without hesitation tho.[/QUOTE]

had to pull ironmans hitch to get the shackle bolt out. Nbd, just more work than necessary.

 

That's a tiny ass shackle. Can you pull it without consequence to gain ~2" in rear lift?

 

Think you need the flex of the shackle to allow the spring to lengthen and shorten as it travels up and down.

 

had to pull ironmans hitch to get the shackle bolt out. Nbd, just more work than necessary.
[/QUOTE]

I kinda wish we woulda got a pic of that for reference.

 

Snowbobs springs came out and went back in within 10min, but he didnt have a hitch.

 

Last 20% I recall was for inside track members, with 10% for regular folk.

 

Normies

 

90pa is conventional. Can't help with the temperamental part though.

I know nissans synchro in the late 80's+ manual transmissions did not like gl5. Had to be a gl4, the only thing that really worked well was Amsoil gl4

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 (syn) or penzoil 'gm sychromesh' (dino). Everything else just led to grinding eventually.











I've spent a fair amount of time near lock.

 

That's how the SHO is. It wants either mercon IV, or syncromesh. And it's the trans that decides. 2 identical cars can need different fluid.

 

I am so close to finishing painting my house. Replaced much of the trim around my garage door which involved some use of the hand plane. Looks much better, esp for a novice. before and after

 

Some of my downstairs vents are aggravating me, and appear to be pretty jank. You can physically see pink fiberglass on the vents. The registers also don't attach well, because they are just screwed straight into sheetrock. Had an AC guy look at it, and he said it was a method used in the 80's and the only way to fix it was to tear sheet rock out and goto town $$$$. Heres a picture for reference:



House was built in 2014. The screws into the sheetrock is easily fixed with anchors. The fiberglass is what bothers me. Probably not great to breathe, and more than that the residue is unsightly. Fart fans in the bathrooms suck it up and look nasty half the time.

 

Usually the screws for the grills go into the metal of the duct housing. Kinda like the boot the flex ties into. Is there anything to transition the flex to the grille? I'm better with electric speak so I'm not sure of HVAC terms. Where's @FrenchToasty when you need him?

As for anchors, it's zip-its or nothing:

 

Wheres the ducting?

 

You can see the flanges for it up in the top of the box.

I don't know why/when it's correct to use this, but I found similar in my dad's house in FL. They used insulated hard line (6" supply, maybe 8"?) and dumped that into a black-painted fiberglass cube with flanges holding the coupler onto it. The fiberglass cube gets mounted to the wall/ceiling you want your vent, and you cut the hole for your vent.

It's not the traditional galvanized steel-frame fluted ducts I have for my floor and ceiling registers, which have a penchant for eventually rusting out (the floor ones) and needing replacement. I can only assume that's the benefit to using these, but I dunno...