1st Gen General Questions

Wow....that sounds really strange....why would it work for a few days and then stop? I will have to see what happens with mine.

 

Were you able to pull any of the big relays out? The ones with the little strap around the top of them?

 

Maybe the computer senses something.

 

Don't know the answer to that. I know I took pictures of what wires I had to modify .I'll check my old phone

 

I didn't try.

 

That would be useful. I have to kill them one way or another.

 

Let us know if you try and are successful. I’ve asked this question many times even in the ‘General’ section and no answer. Did some internet searches and nothing. Even inquired about a ‘Relay Puller’, as it seems to require a special tool to depress the tabs while pulling simultaneously, but nothing.

 

Yeah it's a lot of work. But once you do it right and get a good base layer of protection you shouldn't have to do it again. It's worth it.

 

I believe it is required by law to have DTR lights in most states if vehicle was manufactured past a certain date. Check your local laws.

 

That clay bar step is the real deal for a top notch detail.

 

Not here.

 

Here is the pics from disabling the dtrl on my 2000 . This is the main dtrl relay. Located in the center of cab under the ash tray . Disconnected the black wire with yellow stripe and taped it back.

 

What would be a good way to protect these? The previous owner had them running to the bed for lights, which I don't have atm. I'd like to keep them so I can add lights later so I'm just going to zip tie them under the truck. Should I just wire nuts the ends and wrap in electrical tape or is there a better way?

 

Heat shrink. Then ziptie em up outta the way.

 

Wait a sec, is that 12/2 UF cable?

 

Didn't think of that. And I have a bunch in my airsoft kit.

 

Not sure, I'll check.

 

That's what it looks like!

 

Yep, that's what it is. Should I just rip it out and go with something else when I add lights?

 

I mean there's worse choices but way overkill and had to have been a bitch to work with.

I'm assuming you'd run LEDs so 14 gauge would be more than enough. I prefer adhesive lined butt connectors, easy to use and weather proof.

 

If its already run and you still want to keep it, then snip the bare copper off to the jacket and wrap some electrical tape around the tip. You’ll end up cutting back on the other side of that connector and installing a new connector when you do your future work.

Or, just rip it all out back and start fresh in the future.

 

I might just take it all out. I thought it strange that they used 12-2 (didn't know it was UF, I'm used to the yellow stuff).

 

UF is direct burial cable. NM(yellow) is regular romex. If you wanted you could pull it out and just do a stranded 14 cable assy and sleeve it in wire loom for a cleaner install.

 

So, need some advice on my CV problem. Should I replace the whole axle? https://www.1aauto.com/toyota-sequo...GNvhprC_LEZWTem3KLnroRdU8O0XFTZYaAtULEALw_wcB or can I just replace the boot? https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/sdhq-built-direct-replacement-cv-boot-kits?variant=12249935085603 What tools will I need? Do I need grease? Any recommended guides? Etc.

 

I can only answer part of your question but the general consensus here is to only order OEM CV's. The aftermarket ones don't last. Did you end up lifting your truck? If so, you may want to consider doing something about the angle of the CV axle. CVJ is one option. https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9550/

Another is just replacing the boot with a high angle offering from ORS. https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/high-angle-inner-cv-boot/

I'm curious about the install as well as I'll likely have to do something to mine after I lift it. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

 

My 2 cents, if you've never touched it replace the whole axle. It's about the same amount of work to replace just the boot.

 

My shop said the same thing. But if he has a lifted truck he may want to consider one of those 2 options I linked or the boot may tear again.

How difficult is it to remove and replace one of these on our trucks?

 

There is somebody I believe that has the shafts with the high angle boots already installed. Escapes me who it is now.

I've never changed one on my truck but from looking I can't imagine it taking more than 2 hours from the time you wheel the jack out.

 

Yes, it's in the link I posted above.

https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9550/

 

Ah I missed that, my fault.