1st Gen camper shell buying info

Thanx buddy

 

Just checked and they're 43miles away. Not great, but not terrible. Just gotta go from the SE to the NW of the big H.
That might be a last resort if I can't get stuff delivered.

 

I mean, you may call them. But before that, I'd call Truck Outfitters+ and talk to one of their sales people who may be able to help. I've only emailed back and forth with them when I was hunting seals and they were pretty responsive. (319) 234-3544 is their phone. You're in the same time zone, they're in Iowa. They open at 9am.

 

Always killing it with the amount of detail you deliver.

 

Yeah I'm definitely going to have to speak to the Jason dealer first I think. Because I'm trying to look up Jason keys and my Jason Pace number 245559 doesn't appear to show up on the available key codes. I wonder if they key code is printed on the keys I don't have. My code is too long

 

When I needed new ARE keys I contacted the dealer nearest me. They shipped me keys within a few days. Saved me the 120 mile R/T drive to pick up some keys.

 

The code is typically on the lock cover, the round cover plate but not sure on yours. I bet they’ll know though.

Search the cap for a serial number plate before you call. That number may unlock a shitload of resources for you, if Jason is as good about tracking their shells as Leer and ARE are.

 

Yeah that's the 245559 number I mentioned.

 

Typically speaking the lock itself will have a number stamped in the face like this. That number is the key you need. Sometimes it’s prefixed with a letter and number. You don’t usually need to go thru the dealer to get them. Like, if your lock is stamped “K198” and you search the interwebs for “K198 key”, you can find them.

 

J327 googling now

Worse case scenario I know a local tundra guy who's a lock smith. He's going to check it out Thursday.

 

Wish I was closer to this. I'd buy it just for parts... or possibly repaint it Thunder Gray. Looks to be in nicer shape than mine is. They are not common.

 

There are two double cab units within an hour of me. Both are dark grey and supposedly for a “four door”/“crew cab” (DC, I suppose) 2005-2006. One for $150. The other is a mint ARE unit that looks brand new listed at $550 with all hardware, keys, etc.

I see them sit up and languish for weeks typically, until the price drops to nothing. I’ve owned SnugLids in the past, and they’ve saved my stuff numerous times. The most secure setup ever, shaved tailgate handle and a locking lid, ain’t nobody getting in without drilling the lock or having a key, no glass to smash, no material to cut thru.

 

There's also a number on the struts, and a lot of sites let you cross-reference. Even on a lot of the amazonian products, there'll be a list of compatible model numbers. I went through this. When I was working on replacing the rear window on my topper, I first wanted to order new, equivalent struts to what came with it. But the plexiglass sheet I made was so light, they were too strong. But then it shattered and the thick glass I replaced it with was too heavy. I bought three sets of struts over a couple month period.

There's a certain length that'll work, and that, along with the end/connection size, seems to be the model number. Within that model number, there are often a few different weight options. I went with a far higher pound rating within the same strut length, and finally found the sweet spot for my heavy glass rear window.

Just one example from the struts I bought.

 

These struts don't have any identification. They're about 17" expanded and 11" collapsed. So I'll just look for that. But I have no clue what the poundage should be

 

Dang...haven't run into that yet.

 

I suppose you could guesstimate the weight of the rear door? I'm a take a chance kind of guy and if I was in your shoes I'd lean toward the heavier side upon my guess. It would stay open and maybe just need help closing. I'm sure someone here has a better expert answer though.

or call the Jason dealer and get better answers...

 

Apparently Jason is now Ranch. I just spoke to the dealer and they don't sell the struts. But the dude gave me a number and said to text them the model info... "Hopefully they'd get back to you soon".
Not very promising.
Dude also told me Amazon, but I told em the old struts have no markings.

 

Well, I guess that explains why they're nearly identical

(At least I got that part right!)

 

Ranch website is just as useless as Jason website

 

I would take your measurements and run with them if nobody gets back to you.

FYI, your door shouldn't be much heavier than mine or @KNABORES. My truck is running 28lb struts. SUSPA part number C16-02622. They're 17" just like yours measure out to be and just shy of 11" collapsed. They're supposedly made in Wisconsin. You can get them cheaper at other places, but here's the page with exact specs that match yours. Interestingly, only one of mine is marked but they're both identical. https://shop.suspa.com/c16-02622-gas-spring-p44.aspx
Lemme know if I can get you more info or pics or whatever.

EDIT: To anyone reading this later, I'm time traveling back to the past to tell you: If you're not running a mid-rise or high-rise cap, and your cap currently has 28lb struts, unless you want your door glass to be potentially quite aggressive with its opening (like, to the point of self-opening once above 9 o'clock position), you may want to stick with 28lb. I just replaced with 35lb from Suspa, the Suspa C16-02648 for future reference, and ... that 7lb-per-side difference is noteworthy. It could just be that my 28lb were tired, for sure. And, the fact I took a light tap to the head when I popped off the 1st one would reinforce that. But yeah, the 35lb are pretty stout, for sure.

 

All the struts should be relatively the same. My 38# struts work great. Now, If you have a mid or hi-rise topper, you probably need longer ones.

 

I see @shifty` is running 28# vs my 38#. 28# would probably work just fine on mine as well. Maybe the extra support will make them last a few more years.

 

I've been considering upgrading mine. I've definitely had mine come slamming shut over bumpy roads, but they're also - it would appear - original to my shell.

 

Do I sense sarcasm?
Nah you been plenty helpful. I think I'm just going to take my changes and buy something like you said. My last concern was the poundage. I had no ballpark. So now I think I'm all set. Thanks everyone for all y'all's help

 

You drive with the window open? That's dangerous. Rusty shattered his window off-road when it popped open and slammed shut.
38lbs it is.

 

Mine do not move now when the door is open for longer cargo.

 

Nah, no sarcasm. Being genuine. Most of us on here don't have money growing on trees, so if there's something simple I can do to make you feel like your purchase is a solid one before you drop some coin, holler!

I do sometimes drive with it open, like when I have the yaks hanging out the back of the truck. And with 10yr old 28# struts that are probably worn out, sometimes the window will close on the right bumps, but I've never had the glass smash like Rusty. I guarantee you if I had fresh 28#'ers on my truck today, the window would stay wide open. Or, if I lubed the shafts with gasket reconditioner it may also get some function back. 38# may be overkill, but if you want things to stay open-open, do it. You've got your range, anywhere from 28-38 will do you justice. I wouldn't drop below 25#.

There's a technical way to weigh your door glass to figure out what's appropriate. It's not dissimilar from how you weigh a garage door to figure out what poundage of spring to use, i.e. you set a scale down on a ladder, then lower the door onto the scale where the door is pointed downward at its heaviest point, and whatever poundage it registers, you get struts that are rated x% higher than that? I'm sure Googling for 'how to pick appropriate gas strut for door' would get you the result you need.

 

38# seems excessive, but there's nothing wrong with excessive. I'm running 38# on my window with this glass:


Heavy AF. Strut strength feels just right.

 

I just ran numbers on mine. 28# was original to my Leer 100R. What appears to be the build date on the shock is consistent with what the Leer dealer told me for my shell’s build date (within 1yr). I did find some 35# on scAmazon for under $20 I’ve added to my cart and may pull the trigger on later.

 

I also remember that we're limited by options. Of course. Within any model number, they're only going to offer so many different strength options. So if you can't find the Goldilocks strut, err on the heavier side.