1st Gen 2WD DC

@daveeasa, I think I solved my skid plate noise. I bought some longer (and grade bolts), from 25mm-45mm. The front skid front 3 holes are bolted straight to the frame. The skids are lined up like roof shingles, overlapping per normal. All of the overlap areas have polyurethane bushings between the plate and the frame, and between plates. The back of the trans plate has no overlap at the back and that one is straight to the frame. I used a hose cutter to split some energy suspension sway bar link bushings. So far so good. I'm down to one under-dash noise that is a wire I ran.

 

I might need photos to figure it out. Mental note to phone a friend when it’s time for skids and gears.

 

I haven’t even unpacked mine. But I think my cat skids have shipped. I think I should do gears first.

 

EDIT: the driver's side wasn't riding higher. I wasn't on level ground. The springs are great but too light for my application.

 

That's funny you drive to El Segundo. I live here. Refinery or Aerospace?

 

Here's a better explanation from the manufacturer. More liberal than I stated, but important.

When installing a new ring and pinion it is recommended to properly break in the new components. The proper break in procedure will extend the life of the components and help with the prevention of premature failure usually caused by extreme heat.
Although your new ring and pinion is “Lapped” from the factory for smooth quiet operation, they will still need to be broken in once they have been installed. A new ring and pinion will initially run hotter when new and can cause extensive damage if the temperature exceeds ideal operating conditions for an extended period of time. The suggested break in procedure is as follows,

• The first drive with the new ring and pinion should be under normal driving conditions (No hard starts, No racing, No off-roading, No towing and not at Highway speeds).
• The vehicle should be driven 15-20 minutes around town, normal stop and go driving. Then you should let the axle assembly “Completely Cool” (this will allow the gear oil to cool down so it does not reach temperatures that will break down the oil, causing loss of protection)
• Repeat the 10-15 minute drive and cooling off period 2-3 times
• Then you will want to drive on the highway and repeat the process at least 2 times abiding by local speed laws but not exceeding 65 MPH, be sure to let the axle assembly completely cool between drives (very important).
• Lastly you will want to change the gear oil after the initial 500-1000 miles and your gears are broken in correctly.
• Note: If vehicle will be used for towing, repeat the break in procedure the first time it is used to tow.

 

Aerospace. Across the street from the Air Force/Space Force base. One of these days, we'll cross paths.

As for break-in, Frank told me the same thing. Don't hot rod it, drive it 500 miles, and change the oil. Luckily for me, when Frank got done with my truck, I drove 20 miles back to Lakewood in traffic, so I wasn't to worried about the heat. Then I had the weekend to baby it. After the weekend, I just cruised to work. Haven't had issues.

Do you ever plan on going with 35's now since you have 4.88?

 

I walked right by your work on Sunday. It seems clear that at this point bigger tires would be the most meaningful upgrade for me. I have 8.5" wheels at 0mm, so how big is a good question. I'll have to spend some time with that one. My current tires although smaller are pretty rad. Soo...

 

35’s will fit on a 8.5” wheel, it’s just a bitch to mount them.

 

Do you think the 0mm offset is an issue?

 

One thing I’ve never grasped was offsets and backspacing. It’s like calculus to me, right over my head! @Darkness will know.

 

Offset is where the mounting surface of the back of the wheel is in relation to the rim.
Our trucks came +15mm and 7.5" width. When you to to 0mm, you are moving the whole wheel out. Going to 8.5" adds 1/2" more outside and also 1/2" inside. Backspace is mounting surface distance to the inside of the rim. If anything you do creates too much backspace or distance, the inside of the wheel or the tire will contact the suspension/frame and probably not mount.

In the example above, backspace is decreased (more inside clearance by the 15mm to 0mm offset). Adding an inch of overall width adds 1/2" to both the inside and the outside, putting that backspace to where it was (2mm difference actually) So here backspace is not a concern, it is the same.

The offset change is like adding a 1/2" spacer to the wheel. The wider wheel pushes the outside out some more. So, when you turn the wheel, it is traveling on a wider circumference. Think about looking at it from above. That puts the corners of the tires closer to the truck on turns.

 

I hate doing math though!

I'm pretty sure 0 offset on an 8.5 wide wheel is 4.75 backspacing. Keep in mind that the advertised wheel width is usually within the rim lips as there is an inch added to overall width (so an 8.5 is really more like 9.5 lip to lip)

4.75 is a bit on the deep end in my opinion. You may have an easier time clearing the pinch weld but you'll hit frame harder with a bigger tire, especially if jumping into the 12.5 wide series. You might not clear your upper arm on a tire that wide with 4.75 backspacing. Most guys who run 35s go with 4" or 3.5" backspacing and as skinny a wheel as they can find. That helps clear the frame and suspension and all the clearance work is done in the body.

If you are talking 17" wheels and looking at the 35x10.5s you miiiiiiight squeak by with what you have.

I am very curious about those solo lower arms and how they may change things for us. Getting an inch away from that pinche pinch weld opens doors.

 

Nailed it - thanks @Darkness

 

My wheels are 17x9 et-12 with a 4.75BS.
I run 1" spacers for a final offset of -37 and a 3.75BS. Lots of room inboard, but even with 285/70/17, I clip the corners of the bumper backing up with the wheels turned.

 

I wonder how the 285/70/17 would go for me. Front bumper is not an issue. I would anticipate some body chop I'm already very close in the back on a turn Solo arms could help, but they wont do anything for my backspacing. This might be one of those (it's going to take some trial and error) scenarios

 

That’s my thought on the 35’s. I’m hoping I can get these wheels to work. If not, I’ll have some abused SCS wheels for sale.

 

I had to remove the OE mudflaps as I was just touching them. A 12.50 would definitely take some 'persuasion' to clear the body at the back. The SOLO LCAs would definitely help a lot here.

If you like your wheels, just scoop up some spacers and push them out. NBD.

 

I have to revisit your build page. Any updates over there?

 

Ghost town over there. I have 5 35’s(one mounted) taking up a lot of space in my garage. Gonna test fit this weekend and crank up the co’s.

 

Thats another thing I'm curious about with the Solo arms. I believe our alignment goes a little out when we back up because of the lower arm compliance bushings. Solo uses solid poly so it may alleviate the rubbing while backing up. If nobody else is the guinea pig here I may end up buying them for the sake of science. I just can see so many other things I would rather spend +/-1400 on (accounting for tax and alignment).

 

I went under the truck. You are right - A wider tire and I could have LCA/Spindle clearance issues. But, room for days in the front. An inch forward would likely let me go 33 all day if there is a taller same width size.. Solo - I wonder if they make it harder to achieve my +3 caster.

 

So now I need the LCA’s to fit my 33’s? Hmmm

 

If you want it aligned properly

 

Mine are 10.8 wide and 32.2 tall. I read this and looked at charts. With a 33X10.5 I could go with no other parts and remove mud flaps I think. Solo sounds nice and would either give me some extra breathing room or a chance to go taller. I think

 

Erik, I run 285/75/17 (33.8) with stock lowers. The only two things that I did to make them fit. First I use a 1.25" wheel spacer to stop from rubbing the frame while turning. Then I had to trim the pinch welds on my fire wall. Clears everything, my tires don't rub on the spindle and my alignment is tits. I can stop by one of these days and you can test fit my wheels on to your truck.

 

285/70/17 is a small 33”

 

285/75/70* 33.8
I'll make the change.

 

Thank you brother! That is very generous. Are you sure that's a 34? tiresize.com shows it as a 33"

 

Typo, I have a 285/75/17. I made the change.