13WL Brake Upgrade

Because I use the truck for hauling, I plan on keeping the LSPV and adjusting as needed.

 

Wait, there’s a t100 still alive in the era? I can’t remember the last time I saw one lol

 

I haul also so that is kind of the reason I was asking about the delete. If you delete LSPV I'm assuming you have to adjust the Wilwood everytime you add weight.

 

Technically if you want proper braking. Or you just set it somewhere in the middle and forget it

 

Got it so I guess I'm just going to have to replace the LSPV when it's time. So my plan is to get powerstop z36 in the front and wait to see what parts I need for rear conversion. Also question arevthe z36 calibers same as the 13WL?

 

Disc brakes have always been an upgrade I wanted to do not only because of potential braking gains, but because they look sexy. Plus why does my top-of-the-line truck for the model year have drums? My conversion was exacerbated by a wheel bearing failure. I'm really glad I did it though because my truck does a phenomenal job braking.

The stock drum brakes have more surface area for the parking brake. The disc brakes still use a drum-in-rotor parking brake. The SOS kit comes with OEM parking brake levers to work with the parking brake shoes and lines.

In the front I am running 13WLs. The truck came stock with 13WLs and had the brake recall work done in 2007. About two years ago I switched out the OEM calipers for the Powerstop Z36 calipers when I bought their pads and rotors. I am limited to 13WLs as I have 16" wheels, I don't want wheels bigger than that because my truck is an offroad toy. Stoptech offers a 6-piston caliper upgrade (compared to four on the 13WL) in the front that clears 16" wheels, but that runs for around two grand.

When I put my AAL in the rear, I did raise the LSPV. That bracket broke from heavy off-road use, now I have it zip-tied to the rear axle. My plan for it is to hand bend the line and mount it to the bed where it will be permanently adjusted, as my truck's static weight does not change much. This is what @KarmaKannon did. My $.02, the manual prop valve adjustment isn't really necessary if you are fine playing around with the stock one.

There is a Toyota tech tool that Dan has mentioned before for fine-tuning the LSPV. Maybe your local dealer can help you calibrate it if that's really something you're super concerned about.

Z36 is pretty much a brand identifier. 13WL is the cast number. My front Z36s are cast 13WL; my rear Z36s are cast 14BB or something like that.

This is pretty much why. I wanted to replicate the proven Sequoia system, there isn't too much available about using the T100 with disks.

My OEM MC was a 13/16" bore, I think some of the ACs have 11/16" bore MCs. Sequoia MC is 15/16" diameter. T-100 is 1" diameter but double diaphragm booster.

Also, I'm not the biggest fan of putting used parts on my truck especially for critical systems like the brakes. Just too dicey. I felt comfortable buying the SOS kit because for them to sell it, they had to have done some R&D, fitment testing, etc. If this master cylinder or booster go out, I can still easily find parts to replace it. T100 parts? Maybe not as lucky.

Other food for thought on the disc conversion

• You'll have to bend/ cut/ re flair your rear brake lines as the stock ones are a little too long, even if you try to use the Stoptech stainless steel lines SOS sells. I had custom 31" stainless steel braided lines made that go from the T on the center of the rear axle to the calipers with banjo fittings. Keep in mind Toyota brake fittings are Metric. You can go to Napa etc. to have new brake lines bent/ flaired, but chances are their brake fittings will be SAE.
• Front rotors will NOT fit around the hub of the rear axles. I tried to put my fronts on my rear axle to see if a four piston caliper setup would work, but the hub is too large in diameter for the rotors to fit around
  
• You will no longer have easy access to your rear wheel speed sensors. If you ever need to remove those, you have to pull the axles out about an inch or so.
• I had a machine shop disassemble my axles and remove the drum backing plates, then install new axle seals and bearings. You can get away with just cutting the backing plates to fit the disc backing plates, but if you're on your original seals/ bearings still, now is the time to do those.
• The inner axle seal is kind of annoying to drive into the axle housing. Maybe get extras. Freeze it to help shrink it before you go to install. I used an oil filter to help tap it in.

Here's some part numbers I ordered. Please do not rely solely on the part numbers I'm giving you, please do your own further research and confirm what works on your truck. I am not responsible if you buy the part numbers I share and they don't work on your truck.

• 90363-40068 - BEARING, RADIAL BALL (x2)
• 42423-20010 - RETAINER, RR AXLE BE (x4)
• 90301-88077 - RING, O (x2)
• 90520-36045 - RING, SHAFT SNAP (x2)
• 43517-35010 - ROTOR, SKID CONTROL (x2)
• 90313-54001 - SEAL, TYPE K OIL (x2)
• 90310-50006 - SEAL, TYPE S OIL (x2) *recommend to order a few extras in case they're damaged during install
• 46540-60060 - SHOE ASSY, PARKING B (x1)
• 46580-60060 - SHOE ASSY, PARKING B (x1)
• 46550-60070 - SHOE ASSY, PARKING B (x2)
• Power Stop KC2405-36 Rear Z36 Truck and Tow Brake Kit with Calipers
  

 

@des2mtn any chance you have the specific part you mention here "I switched out the OEM calipers for the Powerstop Z36 calipers when I bought their pads and rotors"?

I did some searching on "Stoptech offers a 6-piston caliper upgrade (compared to four on the 13WL) in the front that clears 16" wheels, but that runs for around two grand" and didn't see anything for 2 grand but I did see some stuff in the 3-4 grand range.

Also, perhaps more specifically, would you help me understand a bit better about your preference for 16's for your off road toy? Is the idea that you want to be able to air down and the extra inch in diameter of a 17 means less tire meat available when aired down? Or is it merely the selection of tires for 16 vs 17 which I've heard all sorts of variations on lately and I'm confused a bit, seems like there are tons of options in both diameters?

Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, I'm a slow learner on brakes and wheels it seems.

 

Maybe the Stoptechs went up in price, I haven't looked in a long while.

The Powerstop front kit is: Power Stop KC2324-36 Z36 Truck & Tow Front Caliper Kit-Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors, Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads, Calipers

$458 Power Stop KC2324-36 Z36 Truck & Tow Front Calipers with Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors, Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads Brake Kit For Toyota Tundra Sequoia Caliper Casting #13WL

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KT5E9IA?ie=UTF8

And you've pretty much nailed it on why I choose 16" wheels. More meat.

My truck came stock with 17s. 285/75/16s do a very good job of filling up the wheel well, and when aired down, have a good foot print and float well on top of sand.

Personally I don't look too much into different tires as I have no interest on switching away from what has been tried and proven for my use, KO2s. 285/75/16 KO2s aren't that expensive anyways.

 

Thanks for the incredible detail!

Was the switch from OEM calipers to Powerstop noticeable? Would you do it again?

 

Hard to say, since my old pads and rotors were shot when I did the swap. After two years and heavy offroad use, they're still performing great and the pads are barely worn.

I'd definitely say buy the Powerstop if you're upgrading from S13WE. For DD duties, the OEM 13WLs are fine if they aren't sticking. I don't think any of my pistons were starting to stick or anything on my OEM calipers, but since they were 16 years old, I wanted new ones to get a new lease on life. Plus the red looks nice.

The 13WLs are an upgrade for 1st gen Tacos and (I think) 3rd gen 4runners. I was able to recoup part of the cost by selling my originals to a Taco guy so that helped.

Another thing I'll add with my brakes... For years I was fighting a minor shudder especially on downhills, even took it to the dealer a few times but they couldn't figure it out. I haven't had that come back since doing any of the upgrades.

 

I see the rotors are drilled and crashnburn is a no-drill sort of guy.

I could see buying the calipers if anyone else wants those rotors? It'd be a shame to toss them.

I did attempt to order direct from buybrakes but they said they have nuthin' for me at this time. Dan suggested Napa remans, but if not red then less sexy right?

I think it's probably smartest for me to just wait for @assassin10000 's OEM 13WL's and stay stealthy on brakes for now. Hopefully buybrakes can at least sell me sport pads for 13WL when the time comes.

 

Rockauto has them and you can buy each part separately so just calipers and pads if that's what you want.

 

These? They are the only ones I noticed which were powder coated. They appear to be symmetric too. I just wasn't sure they would clear 16's

Then pads?

 

Even after reading countless threads and watching videos, I still have no opinion one way or the other on drilled/ slotted rotors.

 

Yeah, I might not either but I already bought (and I think Jason already installed) my slotted non-drilled rotors.

Is it safe to assume rotors would be the same for 13WE vs 13WL or is there a need for the rotor to change?

 

Here's how mine look on 16's. It's a pretty close tolerance. Only way I can see the calipers interfering on 16s is if you had a hell of a time balancing the tires and had to stack weights.

The pads and rotors for 13WLs are 231mm while the S13WE is 199mm. I think the 199mm are a part of the Z23 kit. I think it's just the pads that are different though.

 

Correct

Yeah rotors are the same. It's the 14WA that uses different rotors.

Also food for thought but @empty_lord really likes the EBC yellowstuff brake pads and that's what I'll go to when I eventually get around to redoing my brakes. (this is on the sequoia so I already have rear discs)

 

Orange is what I like on the tundra. Greens on the tacos.

 

Esos?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-ed91657/make/toyota/model/tundra/year/2006

And they would fit any 13WL caliper? Sounds like it:



EDIT: Fixed (orange not green).

 

I didn't realize they cost that much. Just go with the powerstop pads, lots of positive feedback on them from this forum.

 

Thanks, ordered up.

 

Yea they’re $$ worth it if you tow though. Only reason I pay for them

 

Thank you for that explanation, I currently have the 13WL and most likely want to switch to the powerstop for the front and for the rear. Do you know what the part number for the 6 pistons calibers for the front? Just want to compare price difference. I'm sure it's a bit difference.

 

https://sosperformance.com/products...-brake-kit-fits-17-plus-wheels-2005-21-tacoma

So, the calipers and pads are still ~$2,100 like I thought, then the rotors that clear 16's are an extra ~$550.

 

Wow thats pretty expensive, what's your thoughts on upgrading the 13wl to 14WA?

 

I don't really have any... My thoughts on it are that I'll probably never do because I'm not giving up 16" wheels. Six 17" wheels, tires, and 14WAs would cost me just as much as the Stoptech kit. If for whatever reason I have the urge to spend more money on the brakes I will buy that Stoptech kit.

The only advantage for me going to 17"s would be if I wanted to run beadlocks.

 

So do you think it would be wise instead of getting the z36 for tundra get a z36 kit for Sequoia for the front and rear?

 

Z36 in the front is the same for Sequoia and Tundra.

 

Sorry meant to say z36 GX470 front and z36 Sequoia rear

 

Thanks for all the info. I think it is a tough call on some of these decisions. The rotors for 17’s with that kit appear to be substantially less than 16’s?