13mpg in town and 16.6mpg on the highway

Yes he "ruined" his truck by getting tires that aren't made from paper-mache and a very slight size increase.

@Eurodriver I put 285/75-18 E range on my SR5 pretty early on at 600 miles or so. I went from 18.5 mpg average on the highway to 16.8 mpg (corrected for the tire size) That's usually doing 65-70 but it's almost always windy here too. That sucks you're getting such shit mileage.

 

You missed my point.

I admit I was grumpy and wasn't friendly. My apologies.

My point was: It's a turbo charged vehicle designed for a specific set of conditions.

I'm glad you enjoyed the laughs señor.

 

I’m getting about the same here. My dash reads 13.7 average.
I read a couple of the post say to either disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes to reset, or reset the trip every time I turn off the truck.

 

Here we are on a truck forum griping about gas mileage, it’s like a Prius owner with a tow hitch griping about tow capacity

 

I just want the best of both worlds..

 

Responses like this are so disingenuous. His truck has an expected EPA fuel economy rating. It’s not meeting that, at all. I’d be pissed too, just like I’d be pissed if I found the tow rating wasn’t what it was advertised.

Just because one drives a pickup doesn’t mean they can’t care about fuel economy. Everything is relative and what he’s experiencing is quite a bit less than what he should expect.

Hell, I get 13 city/16 hwy with my 2008 on 33” Duratracs.

 

Well it definitely won’t hurt anything. Might need to re-program your saved radio stations. I just wonder if you’re actually getting reasonable mpg and the computer is off and needs a hard reset or something. Maybe it’s telling you you’re on E way too early. It’s a long shot, but it’s definitely something I would try if I were in your situation. Just to rule it out.

I would also log the exact amount of miles driven myself and half calculate my fuel economy. Go to your gas station. Fill your tank. Drive till you’re on E and log all those miles. Fill up at the same gas station, and divide the miles you logged by the amount of fuel you refilled your tank with. Add 2% (multiply by 1.02) to correct for tire size. See how far off that is from your dash readout.

 

The huge front grill design and lifted design trend is killing MPG. For example an equivalent GMC 1500 diesel is like 5 MPG lower than the Silverado. There is very little aero in the design to meet the look tough market demands. So it is form over function

 

Am I reading this properly in that you’re stating GMC’s identical twin brother is getting 5mpg’s less than the Chevy counterpart? Please show some data on this…

 

You always need a minute or two of warm up-especially the way upper parts of engines are built now..... The oil needs to get warm enough to go everywhere it needs to.... If you take off right after startup, you will eventually have valve train troubles-guaranteed. And that would likely be the tip of a very expensive iceberg.

Fluids in the engine & tranny need to get where they are supposed to be-before any load is applied.

The amount of money you save from a minute or two of idling might add up to $15 per year. The amount of money you will spend on a new engine and transmission will add up much faster.

 

If this were true than 90 percent of the population would be getting around on foot at this point.

 

When I was researching 21's with the diesel MPG varied greatly between which GMC or Chevy model you choose. Going off memory, but a 2wd base Silverado could top out at 33. A 4WD AT4 could dip as low as 24 or 25 on the highway. And depending on configuration you could probably hit every number in between.

Picking a 4WD, squarer GMC front end and model with off road tires and factory lift of an inch or so cost you some serious MPG.

GMCs were across the board lower than their Chevy peers with the only difference being the front end and some minor extra pounds from a few options the Chevy lacked.

I have not looked at the 23s so the gap may have closed.

The point here is that all the MPG increases from smaller engines, more gears, start/stop, active shudders have been surrendered for huge grilles, lift kits, big off road tires and extra weight for luxury options and accessories. Which is why the market may want but there is a price upfront and operationally for it all

 

I can commiserate with OP in the fact that I wonder if there is a problem with my truck? If m “supposed” to get 19MPG city, but am only getting 13.7 then it kind of worries me.

 

Not that I really worry too much about mpg on my 2022 as it is still a truck but I have 20,000 miles now and compared the out going 2019 it is long term 2.8mpg better same driving.

 

I never do. I can do better than cruise. Especially where I live. It’ll drop to 4th (I’m in a 6 speed) and kick RPMs up to 2.5k+ if I lose a few mph on a long Tennessee grade.

Here’s my highway MPG when I’m trying to be efficient in my 5.7L truck. This is 40 miles of I-65 in middle Tennessee. Lots of long grades. I kept it around 65-70mph. On a long climb, I’ll let it slow down to low 60s. Corrected for my 285/75R18s, which are 8.4% larger in diameter, this is 18.5mpg. Pretty good for having armor, 2” lift up front, dual battery setup, retractable bed cover, etc.

Pardon the dust. I’m due for a complete interior cleaning.

 

Ouch Euro, that’s about what I average in mixed driving with my 2007 with the 5.7L, except I’m driving 10-15 MPH faster on the highway than you are…. And it’s cold so I idle to warm up.

I’m personally at a loss what to tell you. My last vehicle was turbocharged and never got near EPA numbers either, but my driving habits had a lot to do with that.

Some research on Fuelly.com shows your results are similar to a 3/4 ton diesel (or worse).

Unfortunately Toyota can just blame you and not address the problem if you bring it up.

 

First order of business if I were you would be to open a complaint with Toyota customer care about your issues, and then try a different dealer service department. I know it’s a pain in the ass to go out of your way to find one, but might be worth a try.

 

I just treat my truck like my Mercury outboard. No hard acceleration until engine is warm. Outboard mechanics will tell you warm up the engine before trying to accelerate out of the hole.

 

So I just drove from northern nj to western South Carolina on the way down cruise set at 77 (due to Virginia state cops) in 9 degrees last weekend and got 17.6. Drove home today 58-65 degrees same speed setting and was able to get 21.6mpg after the photo sorry but the temp made the difference and the fact that the auto air dam doesn’t deploy under 40 degrees makes a huge difference. Not gonna lie I was gonna be upset if it wasn’t gonna get better because 16-17 mpg is 5.7 territory. I feel if was doing closer to 70 it would have passed 22 easily but time is money in this trade off.

https://imgur.com/a/i0ecB7d

 

This was tonight going to work, 24 miles at 70.1 MPH turning about 1950RPM except climbing hills, I was at 15.1MPG before dropping into the Cheyenne River valley. This is a nearly 16 year old truck with the 5.7L on winter blend fuel with 6 bags of river rock in the bed for weight over the rear axle.

Something is bad wrong with Euro’s truck I think.

 

Unless he brakes with his left foot.

 

I drive my cars and trucks for at least 250k.

You’ll never see that number if you crank and immediately drive off

 

Temps make a fairly big difference in my truck. You also have to account for wind direction. I have seen my MPGs fluctuate by >2 with wind direction and same with temps. We get some nasty winds in Texas.

 

Crosswinds or headwinds seem to have a similar effect. Both result in an increase in fuel consumption to maintain the same speed.

 

It’s really interesting how the TTv6 seems to be sensitive to several variables resulting in drastic mpg differences. There are members here getting 20+ mpg in stock configs and then others get low teens with minor mods. I wonder if the two Ford eco boost engines are similar. The gen2 5.7 is more of a tighter range of mpg but stock is lower than gen3 for sure.

 

Just to compare, my recent gen2 Raptor averaged 13.7ish on street and 16-17 highway driving 80+ to and from California, my Tundra with same tire (315/70r17 KO2) and not calibrated to the larger tire sees 15.5ish on street and 16-17 on the same trip to California, both do/did better on freeway if I keep it at 65