$1000 dollar front end possible?

Y’all, I’ve been so busy with landing a job and dealing with my teenager’s school/sports that I haven’t had time to think about this enough.

I need to replace things.
Oem lbj ubj
Shocks (use current springs ok?)
After that I’m curious about the tie rods and bushings.

I want to try and do it myself and do consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined. I guess I would need a press and a spring tensioner.

I was looking at the 5100s. I just want to keep the lift it has now. Idk the lift bc no records. I guess I could go measure… it’s like 2” now.

and is there anything I don’t need to go oem with, or is that just a hard and fast rule?

and, I just bought this not long ago so idk what/when has been done tbh

 

There’s a thread on here about aftermarket parts and good or bad ratings based upon real world member experiences here to see what to avoid. IIRC, LBJs, CV axles and outer tie rods should be OEM with everything else optional for what you’re looking to do. LCAs are touchy, so definitely check out what to avoid (Mevotech..cough…cough).

 

It'll probably be a tad north of $1000 for those parts (to include tax + shipping) if you go OEM, which you absolutely should. I'd guess they could all be had for about $1100 ish out the door and shipped if going OEM.

You will not need a press and can use a parts-store loaner spring compressor to rebuild your coilovers with new shock (5100s would a wise choice), while reusing those coil springs.

By bushings do you mean LCA bushings?

 

No, I hope I can avoid control arms for the time being

 

Ok so what other bushings were you referring to? UCA Bushings? Sway Bar Bushings?

 

Yeah sure, that if you think it needs it immediately. I mean, that"s why im askin

or anything else, I am looking for opinions

 

Do you see any blue, yellow, red, or purple paint marks on those springs? Some aftermarket springs might not fit the 5100's. @VR6T

 

The springs on your shocks do not look like factory springs. Honestly, I'd hit the "easy" button and get some preloaded 4600 or 5100 shocks.

 

I'm thinking about that.
For the lift, I can only use the 5100s right?

 

If you're thinking about the bushings in your upper and lower control arms, then yes, you do need a press (or you buy new OEM ones they come with bushings already installed). Careful though, if you only replace the bushings, I do believe they need to be clocked a certain way.

 

Pre-assembled 4600s with new coils would bring you back to stock height. There are options other than 5100s, but yeah, between the 4600 and 5100, if you have a lift, you can only use the 5100.

 

You've got the 2.5" Rancho ready lift shocks in the front. Those springs shouldn't be used with the 5100's. The UBJ, LBJ and associated hardware runs about $350 or so from a Toyota parts supplier. The tie rod ends would be around $100. So $450 for the OEM bits leaves you about $550 for the shock / spring replacement. The pre-assembled Bilstein options will be over budget, but you could get the 5100s, OME springs and KYB tophats for about $550

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I wasn't sure which Rancho lift it was. How can you tell?

Will the OME springs will drop it back down?
or are TRD springs longer?

 

OME springs will lift it back up (to your current ride height). Be sure to choose the right ones. They are application specific. TRD springs are stock height and require you to raise the adjustable perch on the 5100s to lift.

 

I made them fit thank you. If the radio hadn't taken me so long to do I would have done the springs as well yesterday.

 

I had them same Ranchero absorbers in my tundra on them rough country springs. Not a good combo, and the absorbers only lasted like 30xxx something miles. Not a fan of either of those companies

 

Yeah, it’s not great. Thinking to order the dobinson/5100 pre assembled from 1st gen off-road, the ball joints, and call it a day. that would be about $1200, though

 

Holler at @memario1214 from HotShotOffroad he'll set you straight

 

First, dude, welcome to the forum.

Second, do yourself a favor, start here, read this thread for fucks sake https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Pay special attention to the Lift/suspension sections.

In there, as you'll see, Rancho - which are the shocks you have, it appears - have a penchant for blowing out the lower shock bushing in no time flat. I see yours are completely fucked.

We need to know if you just have struts, or struts and spacers on top, can we get a pic?

I'll ask: Why are you doing UBJ? Are they shot? They don't fatigue often on these trucks, so I'm surprised to see someone replacing them without 100% knowing they're borked.

That thread I linked literally gives you every piece of info you could probably need to get started. I know it's a long ass read, but before you go any farther, please ... go read it.

 

So that's not really the case. Maybe so in rustyland, but given the condition of OPs other front end components (very rust free), he can get by without a press.

For removal of LCA bushings: bottle jack method

For installing new LCA bushings:


This jig is made up of
- 1/2" threaded rod (about 14" long or so)
- 1-3/8" socket (3/4" drive)
- 1-15/16" socket (3/4" drive)
- 2 nuts (3/4")
- Several washers

*Smaller socket is used to drive the new bushing into the LCA, while the larger socket will receive the end that protrudes out of the LCA bushing eyelet on the other end. Simply position and tighten nuts with two box end wrenches until bushing is fully seated. Voila. Honestly easier and more effective than a press

 

I have no idea when the last time someone replaced those lbjs. I just don't want the whole front end to collapse.
The truck front suspension feels off. like it shudders on certain turns and it definately tnks a bit at potholes or speedbumps. Could it be just the shocks??

 

Those coils will probably work with 5100s. Just tear apart those junky ranchos and reuse the coil springs. We did that with a friend of mine's 2000 Tacoma and it worked out great. You'll just want to order a new top hat bushing from Toyota

 

that jig will work well, great idea!

 

Thanks! I can't take credit I got the idea over on TacomaWorld and have used it on several first gen Tacomas/3rd Gen 4runners. Works like a charm every time

 

Blown strut bushings. The lower bushings is completely fucked. You're whacking metal on metal at every bump.

But I'd inspect the swaybar bushings, and if you're lifted, you can get clunks if the PO didn't install extended swaybar links.

More info in that thread I linked up there.

But yeah, you should test the LBJ also. You know how, right?

 

I do

 

Good to know.

Yep, I live where things rust, but not as bad as places north of me... When I did mine, I opted to just replace the control arms (even though I do have a press), my upper control arms were delaminating pretty bad...

 

You just never know. My Tacoma never lived in a rusty area, but getting the LCA bushings out was not fun. Bottle jack and bench vise method didn't work (actually very slightly bent the control arm, without the bushing budging a mm). I ended up burning them out with a torch.

 

Yea rust certainly changes the whole equation on a lot of things including LCAs and bushings. Glad I deal with none of that headache in AZ

 

Did you take it on a lot of water crossings? Mine had an easy life as a highway commuter for the PO I bought it from and the original bushings were toast at 270k. They came out like butter with just slight pressure from a bottle jack combined with a tidbit of propane torch heat