04 Tundra ltm dbl cab electrical issue

disconnected battery to trouble shoot 1amp current draw that had been draining battery, upon reconnecting the following works- door open indicator lamp, pwr locks, hdlights, brakelights, dash light, horn, dome light, motor starts and runs, transmission shifts, the following do not work- instruments, pwr windows, 4wd, charging system, radio, a/c, turn signals -- fuses for gages, PNL and dome are all good - the electrical drawings of no help - seems to be focused around the integrated panel module- any help appreciated

 

Sorry the truck i'm working on is a 2004 tundra dbl cab 4.7 not the tacoma

 

Double check the radio. My moms sequoia was drawing.

integration relay is kinda a bear to swap. Damn near $300 to fight tight wires you cant see. Get pics if you tackle it.

 

Did you check all the fuses in the engine bay? Or only the ones in the cab? Because what you describe sounds like one of the engine bay fuses went.

Meanwhile, how did you test the fuses in the dash? By site, or using a DMM to test for continuity?

 

Like you I have an 04 LTD DC but other years possibly the same.

While EWD's are not for everyone, the Power Source Schematic pointed to the 40A AM1 fuse as the possible problem.
It's located in Driver J/B and as @shifty` alluded to, I would suggest pulling fuse and check with DVM for continuity. While you might be able to tell visually, best to check with DVM if unsure.

Since we have same yr/mdl, I pulled the 40A AM1 fuse and had same exact results as you.

• following works- door open indicator lamp, pwr locks, hdlights, brakelights, dash light, horn, dome light, motor starts and runs, transmission shifts
  
• the following do not work- instruments, pwr windows, 4wd, charging system, radio, a/c, turn signals

Since it was a 40A fuse, I have to wonder what caused that high of a current to blow that fuse

 

I mean, reversing the batt cables would do it, I'd hope OP would mention doing something serious like that.

But I also watched a friend hook up the battery cables in the wrong order (i.e. positive last) and it blew two fuses in his late '80s Honda. Always best to remove ground first on removal, install ground last at reinstall.

 

wow, great troubleshooting - it was the 40amp fuse - i had pulled it earlier as part of the troubleshooting and upon reinstalling it basically disintegrated probably from age- got a new one today and now the loss of everything is fixed and I'm back to finding the 1amp draw (which I now realize is not through the key), thanks for all your input, any square fuses I pull from now on are being replaced with new.

 

Get an in-line ammeter and pull fuses one at a time till you find which one is drawing an amp. That'll narrow it down. Unless that's what you're already doing. In that case, carry on and keep up the good fight!

 

after doing a hit and miss effort , have finally found the 2004 tundra dbl cab EWDs for the fuse and relay panels with labels on them, printing them out and going for all the fuses that are live with the key off, now it appears that the 1amp draw is intermittent and not always there, making the search and find effort more complicated, just have to keep a battery tender on the truck or disconnect the battery until I get this resolved or suffer the dead battery syndrome some more. IF and when I find the culprit will post. thanks for ya'll inputs.

 

Do you happen to use an OBDII code reader that plugs into the ODBII port? If yes, that's a common cause for power sapping. Leaving OBDII dongles plugged into the OBD port, or Scangauges - or anything, really - plugged into your OBDII port can and/or will result in weird issues.

You may want to consider a solar trickle charger if your vehicle sees sunlight.

 

do use the OBD reader, but the battery was going dead with a 1amp draw with nothing hooked up to my knowledge, good point to pull the OBD when troubleshooting as I have one connected now- will check to see what its current draw is . Live in the Northeast, one day in 10 is sunny, our solar LED yard lights usually last for less than 2 hrs on the normal cloudy days.

 

Update on current draw, the radio fuses RAD NO. 1, and RAD NO.3 drawing 1amp and 0.75amp , RAD NO. 2 drawing 0.35amp which doesn't make sense because it is off the accessory position of the key and the key is off. With those three fuses out battery draw is 0.06amp which is not a battery killer. appears the radio is due for upgrade as soon as the RAD NO. 2 mystery is resolved.

 

Not sure if theres anything else on that circuit but you could pull out the radio and disconnect it. Seems odd there are 3 fuses for it though. Factory radio still? The radio has a constant power source to keep its memory but it shouldn't draw much power at all.

 

Is there a relay that runs those that's either not deenergizing or is stuck closed?

 

If there are no other problems than those readings, my first thought is the ignition switch. As you said, ACC should only be available when key is in ACC position. When the above items have current draw, jiggle the key back and forth without actually turning all the way to ACC. Readings fluctuate ?

I'm trying not to suggest the ACC cutout relay located at bottom of driver kick panel but for some reason it can play a part if you or previous owner tapped into that area or it has a problem.


Another possibility is the ACC relay that's part of the Integration relay on backside of relay box where you found the 40A AM1 fuse blown.
Way out in left field thought but is there a possibility corrosion in the integration panel itself ?



02 Tundra electrical problems | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Not totally way out there, it's happened to at least 3 people since I've been a member on the forum. More people than we've seen with ECU water damage, for sure.