PCV Valve Replacement Instructions-4.7L

I thought this might help people in the future. While there is a decent amount of chatter on this subject, I couldn't find actual video or instructions for the 4.7L V8. Nothing useful anyways. While this write up is specific to the 4.7L 2UZFE engine, the process should be very similar to other Toyota engines.

For most, this should be a very easy job I'd like to thank @Professional Hand Model for his help as I was working on this.

***I'm not a mechanic and won't be held liable if you break something. Do this at your own risk.

Tools Needed:

• Flat head screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
• Flashlight, if not super bright out
• Tweezers- your wife won't be happy
• Vice Grips
• $12 Toyota Ventilation Valve - 12204-50020
  Replacement PCV Valve and
  $7 Beck/Arnley 039-6428 PCV Valve Grommet
  grommet Don't attempt this job unless you have the replacements on hand.
• Obligatory Beer-IPA preferred

I want to go ahead and state that if you're not capable or prepared to remove the vale cover then I would recommend using caution on this job. I'll explain why below.

Step 1- remove the clamp holding the line in place with a pair of pliers. After you slide that back you can gently tug on the rubber line and it should pop right off. There is a foam boot that sits on top of the PCV. Expect this to be in poor shape and "shedding" pieces.

2-to give yourself more working space, disconnect the spark plug wires from the nearest ignition coil. There is a bundle of electrical cords running horizontally(see arrow below) that was really in my way, but can't easily be moved. You'll have to work around that as well as the cords coming out of that blue clip. Be careful when working here as there were a few times I nearly hit the wires for the fuel injector.





3- Once you have everything out of the way see if you can remove the PCV with some minor to moderate pulling. In my case, I pulled with all I had and it wouldn't budge. After 17 years it appeared to be baked in place. I was actually getting nervous that I might break it off.

4-If it appears to be stuck grab some vice grips and clamp them on the base(black part) of the PCV. Using a bit of side to side, but mostly upward force try to pull it out. I had to use a good bit of force even with the vice grips but it finally popped out.



5-Once the old PCV is out, use a flashlight to inspect the old grommet. Mine was nasty. At this point, use your best judgement as to whether you want to keep the original or replace it. I had already slightly damaged the old one as I tried to remove it so I decided to proceed with pulling it out and this is where things can go south. There really isn't a great process for this part. You simply have to get out the old grommet using a mix of cussing, prayers and redneck ingenuity. In my case the old one wouldn't come out easily so I used both a flat head screwdriver to pry and needle nose pliers to pull. It came out in pieces and naturally, gravity wants to pull them into the hole. Folks recommended using a vacuum to suck out anything that falls in the hole but even my shop vac wasn't helping.

The circled piece is the one that fell down in the hole. I was able to retrieve it using some needle nose pliers. It came very close to being sucked into the abyss and the pucker factor was intense.



6-If you made it this far, take a deep breath. Once you have the old grommet removed shine your flashlight into the hole and make sure there isn't anything that needs to be dug out. Go ahead and clean the hole thoroughly before installing the new grommet. This should simply push into place

7- Now it's time to insert the new PCV. This actually required a lot more force than I was expecting. The replacement grommet was tight. Eventually it will slide into place. Go ahead and slide the foam cover over the rubber line and insert that back onto the end of the PCV. You'll feel it pop into place. From there, put the metal clamp back into place.

8-reconnect anything you disconnected. Most likely it will just be the wires for the ignition coil.

I think I covered everything. If anyone has any questions or thinks I missed something please let me know.

I will add that it's probably a good idea to replace this part for any older Tundra as my PCV valve was NASTY.

 

Nice write up. Thanks for the credits. I disagree with one thing... Lager instead of IPA. Carry on.

Feels good to accomplish a job like after having it pucker your cheeks a bit. Where is bmf4069?

 

This is interesting, I did the one on my 04 and it's threaded Toyota #

$18 12204-50030 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Valve Sub-Assy, Vent (12204-50030)

12204-50030.

Nice part is no grommet to worry about but it's a pain to get a wrench on.

 

That is very interesting. Thanks for sharing. I wonder why they switched it. I think I would have preferred the threaded version.

 

Same here.

 

The grommet allows for quick inspection 10 seconds max. now that its lubed up.

 

Nice writing, love seeing beer in the tools and supplies section.

 

Sticky status. Impressive.

 

Nice write up, I need to do mine fore sure. Hoping I can keep using the old grommet

 

Eric what year is your truck and what years we’re the threaded ones, if you know,,,?

 

Mine is an 02. I can't say whether or not they went threaded in 03 but for sure in 04 based on previous responses.

 

....

 

My 03 is threaded too. I just had my rear main seal done and I was going to put a new one in at the dealership because they wanted $80 to do it. I thought before I do it there let me test it. Hooked a price of 3/8 hose to it and sucked gently. Still works. Did the swap at home. Part cost me $12 at another dealership. Didn’t want to risk another seal if the PCV was clogged for some reason.

I know the service reps make a commission but do they get commission on the parts too? The dealership where I had the work done quoted me $20 but I was able to get it for $12 at another?

 

Just did this.....of course the rubber rim ripped off and the gromit body fell down the hole! pucker factor!



Luckily, I was able to fish it out before it fell all the way down into the valves. I was not in a mood to take off a valve cover tonight.

Thanks for the write up.

 

For what it's worth, it took longer for me to find the 22mm wrench to remove it then the actual replacement. The threaded variety is very, very simple.

 

The deteriorated grommet issue on mine. Part of the grommet DID fall inside the valve cover. Fortunately, there is metal pan, for lack of a better term, that runs the length of the valve cover between the valve rockers and the the actual inside top of the valve cover. I researched this when I had my "oh sh**t" moment and confirmed it when replacing the valve cover gaskets later. I still could not access inside the metal pan area to remove the deteriorated 1/2 grommet. I figure if I can't force my way into this small, hollow area to get it out, it isn't going to work it's way out and into the valve train.

 

A vacuum works pretty good. In my case, I turned the cover upside down and shook it till it lined up and grabbed it with some needle nose.

How’d your PCV look? Mine was gunked. The cover chamber slightly gunky.

 

My valve train and valve cover were very clean. The cover had the usual burnt discoloration but no built up gunk. The pcv was okay. I have seen worse in 60's - 70's era cars.

 

So your going to run it with the grommet sitting on the metal cover? That’s good to know because this has been the number one reason I haven’t changed mine yet because I’m afraid of it falling in and having to pull VC.

 

I am. Short of spending potentially hours shaking the valve cover upside down to get the grommet to land just right in the hole, so that I can try to remove said grommet with the valve cover still upside down, I don't see that happening. If you can see your valve cover off, you will see the thin metal pan I am talking about. Old valve covers were completely hollow all the way to the top and the oil literally splashed against the underside of the valve cover top that you see from the outside of the engine. Not so with these valve covers. I am 99% sure that the valve cover grommet stuck between the valve cover shell that we see from the outside and the metal pan that I have attempted to describe will not make its way to the valve train area. A sigh of relief from me when I saw this. It may actually take a new valve cover to be 100% sure the old grommet isn't going anywhere.

 

I’ve only pulled valve covers on a 5.9 dodge a 7.3 ford and a 2.7 Tacoma and all those are hollow. Had no idea about the Tundra valve covers that’s good info.

 

Do you agree with my assessment? As I recall, the space areas on the sides of the pans are not easy access either. I am guessing they are designed to allow blow-by vapors and gases from the crankcase to reach the PCV and that is about it. Very little room for much else.

 

On my 03 it is in fact the threaded version. Actually just did this yesterday and noticed the threads are very flat on the aftermarket PCV valve and kind of difficult to thread in. It was the same story with the factory part, tough to thread out. I only screwed in about 4 threads from the top, hopefully that’s ok? I can’t imagine much pressure? I believe the factory one was threaded in 3 from the top. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks!

 

You confirm your threads are identical on both before install? Metric and standard threads are a little different.

 

They looked identical to the naked eye, but I didn’t actually check them against each other.