Newbie with suspension questions

Ok, I have read through a lot of suspension threads before asking my newb questions. As you all know, there is a ton of data and opinion offered, so if I missed the answers, I do apologize.

Me: 2018 CM with the TRD off-road package. Tires that came with that package are 275/65/18’s.

I have mechanical ability; my hobby’s have included vintage VW restoration including body, interior, welding, mechanicals and parts rebuilding, I have enough tools to get most stuff done, including air compressor, but I do not have a press. I could get one.
Goal for the truck at this point is gentle modification- functional mods like under seat storage, stereo and speaker upgrades, interior upgrades, etc... not aiming for rock warrior, for now just want to level the truck. But, I do go mountain camping, drive through fields, and would like to explore tougher terrain if I get the chance. I also want to be able to tow trailers to haul rock and bark, and possibly a TT in the future.

Ok- after reading, here are my questions:

My Tundra came with “Trail Tuned Bilstein shocks” as part of the TRD off-road package- what are these? Can I adjust them?

It sounds like Bilstein 5100’s up front, set to the middle or high setting would achieve the look I want, with no modification to the rear. Is this correct?

If so, do I need any special tools to do the job myself?

Will I need an alignment after install? I am not comfortable doing that, so I’d need to pick a shop.

Lastly, would this mod make my tires look dis-proportionate? Would I need to trim, and if I do get larger tires, what’s the largest I could go without having to trim, assuming I stick with 18” wheels?

Thanks for any advice and answers!

 

Install Bilstein 6112 fronts at highest setting, 5160's rear with a toytec shackle, 275-70-18 michelin atx2 and u have a very capable truck!

 

Welcome from Northeast Connecticut.

 

Thanks for this! Is a block kit necessary in conjunction with the shackle and strut?

 

Your current OEM shocks cannot be adjusted.
Correct, 5100s at top setting give the truck the same stance as the Tundra Pro, roughly 2" in front, no lift in the rear, sits level.
You'd need a spring compressor to remove and install the coils from and onto the shock or have a shop do it for you. And yes, you'd need an alignment.
As far as tires, you could probably get away with a 285 70 18 on stock wheels with little to no trimming.

 

Thanks!!

 

Having just finished what you sound like are starting, here’s a thread I wrote a month ago about building the 6112s. I couldn’t be happier with them. Set to 1.3” for level to slight rake look. I ended up with 275/70r18s but you could go bigger.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/dont-be-very-afraid-to-build-bilstein-6112.35488/


What I didn’t cover was the install to the truck, which if I did again I could do alone, and there are a couple ways to do it. My way needed my brother for one section hauling on a crowbar for 10 sec. so I could get the bottom of the shock seated, but there are easier ways.

Most people here run the 6112s at the third setting (1.9”) You start getting in trouble going over 3” up front. I like the second setting of 1.3” with no lift in back. Especially with my tire size atm

 

No
Yes
No
Yes
No

 

Agree with the others who advise Bilstein 6112s up front and 5160s for the rear. I noticed an immediate improvement in ride from stock. Soaks up the bumps and dips much better.

I assembled my 6112s at the second to top setting (1.9”) using one of those in-cage coil spring compressors at a local tire shop. I know the shop owner so he let me do it myself for $20. Most shops charge $50-75 to compress and assemble them for you. You can reuse your stock coilovers’ top hats or buy new ones from Amazon. Somewhere on here someone posted the part number for the top hats. Dirty Deeds has a youtube video on how to assemble them. Some places sell the 6112s pre-assembled, though, at an additional cost.

With your mechanical experience you should easily be able to install front coilovers (whatever the brand). I did my 6112s using hand tools in my apartment parking lot. 5160s are also easy. There are some youtube videos showing how to install coilovers or spacers up front that can help. (Spacers are a less expensive option but don’t offer any ride performance.)

I didn’t lift the rear as I feel it’s not needed for my needs. 35” tires easily fit the rear at stock height, but some like to add 1” to 2” when lifting the front to add a bit of the factory rake. I don’t imagine lifting the rear to be any different from any other solid axle leaf spring pickup/jeep, and I’ve done plenty of those in the past. Most folks here go with 1” to 2” shackles or blocks. For an improved ride, a new leaf pack with quality shocks would be my preference, but that’s usually more expensive.

3” up front is the max without going to a drop bracket lift. Otherwise front driveline angles get too severe and ball joints, CV axles and tie rod ends become an issue. Many suggest new upper control arms to aid with front end alignment and upper ball joints when lifting 3”. As someone else said, you’ll need an alignment afterward.

Here’s a picture of mine with 285/75/17 (33.8x11.2) Cooper Discoverer XLTs). I removed the plastic liner/flap behind the front bumper to aid with clearance. There’s a thread with pictures on here that shows where to cut and redrill the plastic liner so that it’s pushed in more to prevent tire rubbing. I intend to do that eventually. Just haven’t gotten around to it, yet.

Post pictures when you get your setup done!

 

Thanks all!

When I make my mind up and commit I’ll return with pics.

 

I went with the Bilstein 6112’s in the front and Bilstein 5100’s in the rear. I left the stock rims on it and I have stock tires on it. I’m waiting for the tires to wear out and then I’m putting 33/12.50/18 Mastercraft Courser tires on it. It rides so much better than those stock Bilstein. Like a new truck.

 

Hey man question. Did you ever get those tires? Reason why I am asking I have 33x18x11.50 tires on the truck now with a 3” leveling kit. I want to get the 6112s cause I have the 5160s now but don’t know if they will fit. The 6112s don’t give you a full 3” lift. Thanks truck looks good too!

 

Just curious, why not do 6112 front and rear? Is there an advantage to using 5100s or 5160s in the rear? I also am looking to level the front and improve the ride quality. I do not want a lift. I have 18” TRD Pro wheels and Ridge Grappler 275/65 R18 tires.

 

They don’t make a 6112 for the rear. 5160 are for the rear only. 5100s are available for front and rear.

 

Got it. Thanks for the clarification.